• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-119
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to dvelop the basic pattern of wome which are fitting for 75A. The collected data were statistcally processed usig the SPSS 10.0 for Mans Standard Deiation, Cronbach's $\alpha$, etc. This study suggested a size chart for body measurement for constructing basic brssiere patterns with size of 75A. The construction of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing and characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embrcing the entire breasts. The drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for 75A was completed by selecting a total of 11subjects, and two wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassiere pattern suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.397-406
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• 2009

A Study on the Development of Brassiere Pattern for Elderly Women The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for elderly women. For this purpose, 6 elderly women(aged between 65 and 69) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their bressiere wearing. he results were as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of elderly women's bressieres, 90B size was selected and then, their bressiere fitting was tested. The foundation pattern of the size 90A was proved for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the basic line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plastic mold(photo.2), the cup of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell(photo.4), and full side stretch-wings were applied to 13% reduced body size. The design pattern of elderly women's brassiers were characterized by a round wired as well as a full cup(3piece) embracing the entire breasts. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items(fig. 6). The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts loosing. It was designed to support the breasts firmly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.648-654
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develops of brassiere pattern for middle school students (15 ages ${\mp}$ 3). In order to design a brassiere pattern, the body surface shell was used as the basic pattern. The foundation pattern and the four-piece brassiere pattern with wire were designed and sewed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The foundation pattern of the size 75A was proved proper for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the base line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plaster mold, the cups of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell, and full side stretch -wings were applied to 8% reduced body size. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items of clothing compensation, body motion, clothing pressure and breasts growth. The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts growth, It was designed to support the breasts firmly, not to press the middle part of them. Simultaneously, this has the advantages that satisfy a characteristic of a figure and the purpose of putting it on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.81-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the applied brassiere pattern of women which are fitting for 75A. The constructing of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and U-wing as well as a full cup embcing the entire breasts. Basing on the bra model from domestic experiment results, development of an applied design, round side type pattern, has been suggested. Thus, suggesting the round variation design bra, which is an applied design based on the basic model based on the breast volume. Based on the sizes that are in reference to Size Korea (2004) and related previous researches, the basic model that has been experimented with 11.4% polyurethane and 88.6% Nylon as the materials, has been selected as the model of research. This takes 75A, the size of which is set according to the underbust circumference and the breasts circumference, as the basic model. It is an application in terms of design, and there is no change to the cup volume or size because it has been moved only from the cutting line. The applied design changes the right side of the lower cup into an easily-movable form and attaches it to the upper cup, and the lower cup takes the right part of the upper cup to form a cup shape of round variation design. It also changes basic straight form of the wings, and alters them into U-shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.94-105
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• 2021

This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.