• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.17-34
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• 2011

This study examined how Bangryeong(方領) had been changed from ancient times in China to the Joseon dynasty[朝鮮] in Korea by analyzing Bangryeong in literature, relics, paintings, etc. Based on this, we also analyzed the form of Bangryeong itself and clothes with Bangryeong using excavated relics from the Joseon dynasty. First, from early Chinese literature, it was confirmed that meaning of "Bangryeong" was a collar attached straight to a garment so that if the garment is put on with the fronts intercrossed with each other the back neck part of the collar is naturally squared. Second, from literature in the Joseon dynasty, it was confirmed that the meanings and forms of Bangryeong were diversified and had different characteristics throughout different time periods. Different from its original meaning in China, Bangryeong came to mean an intentionally designed square shape. Third, Bangryeong from the Yuan(燕) and Ming(明) Dynasties were found among relics excavated in China. Bangryeong from Yuan was Cheolik[帖裏] worn by men, and Bangryeong from Ming was found in women's dresses. Fourth, Bangryeong relics from the Joseon dynasty examines its form in detail. Bangryeong was found in various forms of clothes, and this was consistent with findings from literature review.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.101-109
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• 2014

Bangryeong generally means rectangular collars at present. However, it is estimated that there would be Bangryeong in different shapes besides rectangular shape in ancient times, but there is no accurate evidence. The dispute on the shape of Bangryeong started with the records in Yegi(禮記) and Simui written during Zhou period, China, the oldest records on Bangryeong. However, there are no remains or paintings(pictorial data) accurately proving the different shapes of Bangryeong. While the new shape of Gokgeop(collar of Simui) was mentioned by Zhu Xi during Song period, it was not accurately verified. There are almost no literature, excavated objects or pictorial data on the shapes of Bangryeong which are not definitely identified. The shape of Bangryeong is identified to a certain extent by objects excavated or pictorial data during Yuan and Ming period. There will be definite reasons why Zhou Xibao and Hua Mei, the scholars in China, the y-shaped collar rolled on the chest among the objects excavated during Warring States Period as Bangryeong or Guryeong. Thus, this paper investigated the notes and description in Yegijeongui(禮記正義) and the records and notes during the Han period which are mentioned most frequently except Yegi among the records on Bangryeong. Accordingly, this paper identified that there are different shapes of Bangryeong except rectangular shape during the Han period. It is estimated that Bangyeong at that time had symmetric collars, the collars of Jikryeong which are not overlapped. The collar section after the neck section was straight. It was also said that Bangyeong was women's clothing. In other words, Bangyeong in the Han period suggests that the collar of Jikryeong was Bangryeong. As discussed above, Bangryeong has the long history and different meanings by period. However, it is very difficult to accurately define Bangryeong because there are almost no records on it. Nevertheless, Bangryeong will be discussed more in further study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.960-976
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• 2010

Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.269-279
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• 2005

Okso, Keun Seob($1671\sim1759$) was descended from a noble family of Noreun(노론) and learned from his uncle, Keun Sang-ha who is a disciple of Song Si-Yeol, Kim Chang-hyeub and Kim Chang-heub. His $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ remains in the form of a transcription or a lithographic printing, and documents on 'Hakchangeui' are recorded in jabeui(잡의), Euijedogi(의제도기), which is a part of it. He left Seoul in 1714, settled in Chungpung, journeyed to many places, including the Hwang river area and Jecheon and led a literary and artistic life as Sadaebu(사대부), which was written in a collection of his works where the record about 'Hakchangeui', the most suitable clothes for the life of a retired scholar remains today to express one part of his life. This study introduces data about Hakchangeui written in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$, pursues the reason why Okso, Keun Seob told about it and intends to embody the figure of Hakchangeui based on the system, measure, material, and sewing method according to the records in a collection. Hakchaneui described in $\lceil$Oksoko$\rfloor$ reveals a structure that is different from old Hakchaneui, showing characteristics like the following. It is a Sadaebu's costume for field amusement in which the length of a former part is longer than that of a later part and the side seam of a garment rips. Black Yeon is attached to the white texture. Yeon widths of Git(collar), Sugu and Gil are varied, respectively. Yeon's figure attached to Gil and Somaejindong is a mountain. Git is Bangryeong and link parts between Git and Gil is connected with Sangchim. This Hakchangeui is considered to playas a gown because it has no string or support to adjust his dress. Especially we can identify that Hwayanggun(화양건) was used in this Hakchangeui.