• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.75-87
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• 2003

The objectives of this study are to consider the shape for children's Saenghwal Hanbok and to analyze the trend up to date. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. Children's Saenghwal Hanbok was found in magazine about Hanbok from 1994. The design was various, for it was influenced by adult's Saenghwal Hanbok. From 1997, design of children's Saenghwal Hanbok was come to stay in a revival mood. 2. The Jeogori shape for children's Saenghwal Hanbok was as follows: Git was used several traditional git and western color from the initial to the recent period: Dong-Jeong was not attached in the initial period, but mostly attached with its ends sauare from 1997; Seop was not attached or transformed in the initial period, but attached in a traditional way (trapezoid-shaped) or a new way(rectangle-shaped) from 1998. The front was fastened on the right chest; the sleeves wert long or above-elbow or three quarter sleeve; Baerae was a curved shape in the initial period, but changed into a near-straight line with a slight curve; Jin-Dong line was straight for boys, but curve or not to be tot girls; Pocket was attached for boys, not attached for girls.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.37-43
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• 1988

The purpose of this study is to compare Jegory with Simii, and to understand the construction of Jegory, assuming that Jegory is related to Simii system. The results obtained are as follows ; 1. Teie-ku-li was the first record among the name of Jegory in literature, was called about A.D. 1408. 2, When Jegory and Simii were cut, front-back width and sleeve length standarded on the width of cloth. 3. The cutting of Jegory disposed to seperate right and left width, to connect front and back width up to the middle term of Chosen Dynasty Period. 4. The sewing order of the Simii was Dungsol-Jindong-Baerae-Sougu. The sewing order of the Jegory in $\ulcorner$ The Book of Chosen sewing$\lrcorner$ was Shoulder-Jindong-Baerae-Sup-Dungsol-Kit and in literature of 1960's it was similar to Simii. 5. The lined clothes in $\ulcorner$The Book of Chosen Sewing$\lrcorner$ was sewn to put the inside in the surface, different from the literature of 1960's. 6. In Chosen Dynasty Period the shape of Simii depended on $\ulcorner$Moon Kong Ka Rye$\lrcorner$, but it was changed to similar to Jegory in the latter term. 7. The empty void in Jegory offers usefulness. It relates to Oriental negativism that yin is more useful than yang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.127-142
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• 2000

The names of Chinese Po corresponding to Korean Jikryung are Yesal and Jikshin. Thus the purpose of this paper is to review of the shapes and usage of Yesal and Jikshin and then make a comparative review between the twos and Jikryung having side Moo. Results of the study are described as follows : 1. The Chinese costume, Yesal is translated literally into Korean, Euisal or Euisal Jikryung and called Euisal Diknyung or Uisakot in Korean while Jikshin is translated into Korean, Jikryung and called Diknyung. 2. Yesal is a new type of clothing as created during the Ming period. The costume is the remnant type of Yosunoja and Byunsunoja in the periods of Sung and Yuan. Types of Yesal are classified into two, or one whose rear part's upper and lower areas are connected with each other and whose front part's upper and lower areas are net, the other in which those upper and lower areas are disconnected both in front and rear parts. 3. Types of Jikshin are classified into two, one having Pa and the other having loot. The latter is re-classified into two, one whose sleeve is large and wide, the whole length of which is long and which was usually worn by Sain, and the other whose sleeve is small and narrow, the whole length of which is short and which was by the grass root. 4. Yesal and Jikryung both having Pa have the almost same shapes except their front parts. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. Also the both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials from higher to lower levels. 5. Jikshin and Jikryung both having Pa have the same shapes. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. The both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials under a King and as casual costumes by Sadaeboo. In terms of color, Jikshin and Jikryung both employed red, blue and green, Especially the red color was favorably used both in China and Chosen at that time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

As the whole world is rapidly becoming hollow connected by networks, the fashion world in the 21st century is about to mould the identity of one's own country by establishing image of one’s own country and originality. Therefore the purpose of this study is in the development of designs in order to making the image of Korean dress and ornaments firmly in the global fashion by grafting and applying the elements of Korean dress and ornaments to the modern fashion. The method of this study consists of production of works after investigation of the images of Korean dress and ornaments applied to the modern fashion or detail elements in the Korean research papers and works. The elements of images of Korean dress and ornaments which used for the production of works like Dongjeong, Baerae, Dangeu doryeon, Chima heori, Goreum, Jeogori, Euryeyong chima, Saegdong, Jogakbo, Jatmullim, Geumbakseuran are made of use as motives, and one or several mixed elements are designed in a work. The result of the production of work is as follows : First, the design which made use of the element of Chima jegori make strong image of Korean dress. And by grafting several elements to one work, the more strong Korean image was created. Second, in the design which made use of ornaments and detailed decoration method, ideas are offered for detailed design skills. The materials which was investigated academically along with the study through the actual manufacturing are expected to become a foundation stone of making firm images of Korean dress and ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.60-73
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• 2007

This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.589-594
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for design and pattern development research in the modernization of Cheollik by comparing and analyzing the interrelationships between the components of the Cheollik. The 237 pieces of excavated costume Cheollik in the museums were surveyed. The size of the Cheollik components were examined by 100 year unit from 1400s to after 1800s. In the 1400s, the length of Cheollik was the shortest and the length of top was longer than the bottom. In the 1700s, the total length was the longest and the bottom was longer than the top. As the age increases, the total length and the bottom become longer and the length of the top becomes shorter. Poom and Gutseop were the largest in the 1400s and the smallest the after 1800s. As the age of the Poom and Gutseop decreased, the width of the Anseop increased. Gutseop was always present but Anseop was not always present in Cheollik components. As the ages passed, Jindong and Soogu became narrower and Baerae became wider. These change of Cheollik's sleeves form were affected by GongBok(so-called official wear) sleeves. By age, Cheollik did not show any big change in the basic shape, but the partial dimensions of the components showed changes. If the design and pattern research for modernization is done based on systematic establishment of pattern dimension of Cheollik, Cheollik dress combines practicality while preserving beauty and tradition at the same time.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.