• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

We studied the meaning of the term avant-garde in relation to clothing of the 1980s and 1990s by examining the media's perceptions of Martin Margiela, a Belgian deconstructionist designer who was often labeled as avant-garde by journalists, scholars, and fashion critics in the late 20th century. A five-step content analysis method described by Paoletti (1982) was used to conduct the research. Newspaper and magazine articles in the 1980s and 1990s were analyzed using a set of existing avant-garde characteristics developed by Crane (1987) to determine if those journalists' perceptions matched the characteristics described by Crane. Results indicated that the journalists' critiques and descriptions matched the avant-garde characteristics described by Crane (1987). Including a subjective element to the conceptualization of the term explains how journalists described Margiela's designs despite Japanese designers' use of similar techniques before him. We (re) conceptualize the term's latter 20th century meaning and shifting dialogue to include a subjective element.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.315-333
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to find out how the aesthetic values and characters of the Avant-garde fashion through semantics analysis of Avant-garde experiments in the early 20th century. Inner expressions of Avant-garde fashion in future dynamism, alien-hostile, and surreal-experimentalism are as followings (1) Reject tradition of existing fashion concept, (2) Dismantle costume material and inter-text characteristics in fashion field, (3) Laugh at material civilization and elite fashion, (4) Pursue primitive and fundamental sensibility on non-civilized world (5) Express human estrangement due to material civilization, (6) Remove the barrier of fashion between luxury and cheap ones, (7) Time, space and purpose is mixed, (8) Open concept as space structure independent of human body, (9) Complicatedness, ambiguity and expression of irregularity as changeableness, (10) Dismantle concept of beauty and ugliness. As you see, fashion design in modern Avan-garde is pursuing newness as beauty of open concept, rejecting all modern tradition and allowing extremity such as experimental, illogic, unreasonable and non-formatted expressions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.62-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.413-426
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• 2020

This study researches the association between associative vocabulary and fashion image language in order to extract ideas that can be used as basic data for design ideas. Classic - avant-garde imaged language were chosen as theme words and each 70 questionnaires per a final image word were used for analysis. We obtained the following results by researching keywords that explained classic image words through a word cloud technique. It was found to have high central representation in the order of suit, classical, basic, music, Chanel, black and traditional. The core key words explaining avant-garde image language were found to have a central representation in the order of : peculiar, huge, Comme des Garçons, artistic, creative, deconstruction and individuality. We extracted the necessary idea dimensions needed for design ideas through associative network graph analysis. In the case of classical image language, it was named as the Mannish Item, Music, Modern Color, and the Traditional Classicality dimensions. In the case of avant-garde image language, it was named as the Key Image, Artistic Aura, Key Design and Designers dimensions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to determine the fashion images implied in men's fashion trends and systematize the characteristics of the textile materials used for fashion images, by analyzing men's fashion trends published by Korean fashion information service companies. This study would be meaningful if it can suggest some objective criteria for the characteristics of textile per fashion image. The researcher analyzed the data on the basis of 8 fashion images, which were ethnic, modern, traditional, avant-garde, active, romantic, natural, techno ones. Above men's fashion images were choosed by analyze the some literatures and men's fashion trend information. The data used for this study were information about S/S and F/W men's fashion trends published by Interfashion planning, Samsung fashion Research Center for the period of 1995-2000. The data collected were subject to “content analysis method”. As a result of the analysis, the major images of 1995-2000 were natural, active, traditional, modern, ethnic, avant-garde, techno images, and while such combinations of conflicting images as ethnic/modern, traditional/avant-garde, natural/techno. Other mixed images were ethnic/natural, modern/active, tradional/active, traditional/modern, romantic/modern, ethnic/romantic, traditional/natural, modern/natural, active/natural, active/traditional/natural, etc. The various characteristics of eight men's fashion images were found in color, pattern and textile materials.