• Title/Summary/Keyword: Avant-Garde

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Some Factors of Influence on Paco Rabanne`s Fashion Design (파코 라반 복식의 조형적 특성에 영향을 미친 요인)

  • 최영옥
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.122-139
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    • 1999
  • Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.

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A Paradigm for the Semiotical Interpretation of Rimmed Make-up (림드 메이크업의 기호해석 패러다임)

  • Kim, Hyun-Mi;Jang, Ae-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.32-41
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.

The Correlation between Clothing Style and Hair Style related to Fashion Image (패션이미지에 따른 의복스타일과 헤어스타일의 상관성)

  • Lee, Hyo-Sook;Park, Sook-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.2 no.3 s.3
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    • pp.44-59
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to find out proper evaluative words according to fashion image and to identify the correlation between clothing style and hair style related to fashion image. The questionnaire was used to collect data. 326 female aged between 23 to 40 were selected for the subjects of this study. The data were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, pearsons correlation. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Evaluative words for each fashion image were selected by factor analysis. modern image intellectual, cold, urbane, simple, straight. elegance image : graceful, dignified, refined, decorous, luxurious. romantic image : cute, lovely, girlish, feminine, romantic. natural image : natural, comfortable, gentle, intimate, soft. casual image : energetic, active, free, cheerful, vivid. avant-garde image : experimental, strange, creative, avant-garde, irregular. 2. Correlation between clothing style image and hair style image ; clothing style and hair style was positively correlated. with the same image in case of modern, romantic, casual, elegance and avantgarde but natural image of clothing style was correlated with the natural, elegance, romantic, modern image of hair style. 3. The most suitable hair style for the clothing style according to fashion image : The clothing style of a particular image was matched best with the hair style of the same image.

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A Study on the Space Design Characteristics of Scenography in Bauhaus (바우하우스 무대 미술의 공간 조형성에 관한 연구)

  • 김일환;김주연;전흥수
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • no.29
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    • pp.77-85
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    • 2001
  • The change of society causes the change of art necessarily. The experiments of plastic art which as been done by avant-garde movements at early 20th century have pursued ″Object drama″ consistently as trials of more or less abstract drama. As these plastic arts have used genre or media like circuses, sports, variate, films, screen play, newspapers and a quick method which had not been considered suitable for conventional aesthetic plastic arts, these arts looked provocative and, these provocative plastic arts have ignored universality shown in conventional arts and have caused extreme ″sensation″ accordingly. As a result, abstract art based on style which is against aestheticism and naturalism has been generalized. This style does not deny customary laws of art wholly but it requires new concept. Having ignored traditional styles, a new compositive and responsive way of composition which does not deviate from tradition has been pursued. A new and general understanding of arts which do not deny all conventionally-effective standards extremely has been developed. In this regard, this study analyzes characteristics of Bauhaus Theater which has tried to apply new technology engineering to plastic art as an integrated concept of art and technology amongst the directions of development of provocation, innovation and revolution in case of the plastic art of stage painting, and analyzes how this influences on modern painting in terms of avant-garde arts reviewing the meaning of this theory.

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A Study on Futuristic Aspects of Ron Arad's Interior Design (미래주의 관점에서 본 론 아라드의 공간 표현에 관한 연구)

  • Ko, Ja-Kyoung;Shim, Eun-Ju
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.50-57
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    • 2008
  • Futurism can be defined as a movement in the early 20th century founded by Italian writer Marinetti apposing to traditional and conservative art. Though its life as a movement seemed to be fairly short, it can be said that the very essence of futurism can be seen whenever there is radical change in our society such as the information revolution. Even though the information revolution has brought us many positive improvements our life including art and design, lately there are also discussions about the defects in our life. Ron Arad may be considered as a designer and artist whose intentions and expressions are very similar to those of futurism. This study investigates concepts, meanings, and expressions of futurism in art history and then those of Ron Arad's shown in interior design projects. By examining selected project examples the author defined that rather than optimistic viewpoints, avant-garde and technological aspects were found to be strong in symbolic qualities. As for expressive qualities, dynamism and continuity appeared to be Ron Arad's unique expressions, very similar to those of futurism on the other hand, purity and temporarily were found less. It is hoped that the study may be a help in better understanding futuristic qualities of Ron Arad, one of the radical and experimental designers of our age.

A Study on the Relationship of the Architecture of Leonidov and Koolhaas - Focused on the Technological, Social and Compositional Aspects - (콜하스와 레오니도프 건축의 연관성에 대한 연구 - 기술적, 사회적, 구성적 측면을 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, Yong-Soon
    • Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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    • v.35 no.4
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    • pp.93-102
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    • 2019
  • In 1960s Russian avant-garde architects such as Moisei Ginzburg, Konstantin Melnikov and Ivan Leonidov were rediscovered in the western architectural society. In this period Rem Koolhaas investigated the projects of Ivan Leonidov with great enthusiasm. In late 1920s and early 1930s when the hope and fantasy to the social revolution and technology reached the climax, The third generation of Russian avant-garde intended to find the new synthesis of the technology, the form and the social ideology. In this context, Leonidov proposed audacious projects from the small scale to the urban scale in the influence of Malevich's suprematism, Vesnin's technological fantasy and Ginzburg's concept of "social condenser". These projects seriously affected Koolhaas. This relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas was indicated but not investigated in concrete manner. This study intends to analyze the projects of Leonidov and to investigate the relationship of Leonidov and Koolhaas in Delirious NewYork and in the projects of Koolhaas. We will analyse this relationship in three categories : hedonistic technology, social collectivity and pure geometry.

Requirements of Fashion as Popular Art in Contemporary Culture

  • Seunghee, Suh
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.6
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    • pp.94-104
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the art world's perspective on popular art and the contact point with pure art and to present the requirements of fashion as a popular art. To analyze the artistic value of fashion, this study analyzed and presented the requirements of art by linking the innate characteristics of fashion premised on mass consumption of popular art. The research method consisted of content analysis focusing on books and papers on art and fashion. A critical perspective on expansion of the artistic field amid the blurred boundaries of art is the basis of a critical comparison between popular art and avant-garde art and a critique of popular art as opposed to value-oriented art. Conversely, as a point of contact with popular art with fine art, art is discussed against the ideological strategy of fine art and the shift in hegemony brought about by erosion of the barrier between art and everyday life. In addition, the non-essentialist perspective contradicts the division theory of popular art. The requirements of fashion as a popular art were analyzed based on the value of self-expression through the aesthetic pursuit of creativity and aesthetic expression, discourse as art, and expansion of modern art from the inessentialist perspective of popular art.

Dialectical Images: William Carlos Williams's Avant-Garde Poetry

  • Kim, Hongki
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.445-459
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    • 2010
  • William Carlos Williams discovers important sources of inspiration in the revolutionary avant-garde movements, in particular, Dada and Surrealism and attempted to embody the innovations in them in his poetic theory and practice. Williams's passion to create an indigenous American poetic work is compatible with his Dadaist experimentation with objets trouvés. Williams pays deep attention to objets trouvés, physical objects and marginalized people he comes across and transcribes his observations with poetic words freed from their instrumental contexts. In his characteristic poems written in the 1920s and 1930s, Williams records the social ruination and his task to give voice to the conflictual and fragmentary character of modernity is pursued through the Surrealist formulation of montage. In the Surrealist formulation of montage, the dialectical image is a central trope for reading the myth of modernity; it is positioned as both subject and object in the historiographic narratives of Walter Benjamin and Williams. As Benjamin tries to obliterate all traces of the author in the Arcades Project, Williams's montage poems like Spring and All only disperse argument into materialistic, dialectical images. The dialectical image in Williams's poetics becomes an organon of historical awakening so that truth can emerge from an unmediated juxtaposition of "things."

A Study on Avant-Garde Fine Art during the period of Japanese Colonial Rule of Korea, centering on 'Munjang' (a literary magazine) (일제강점기 '전위미술론'의 전통관 연구 - '문장(文章)' 그룹을 중심으로)

  • Park, Ca-Rey
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.4
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    • pp.57-76
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    • 2006
  • From the late 1920s to the 1930s, Korea's fine art community focused on traditional viewpoints as their main topic. The traditional viewpoints were discussed mainly by Korean students studying in Japan, especially oil painters. Such discussions on tradition can be divided into two separate halves, namely the pre- and post-Sino-Japanese War (1937) periods. Before the war, the modernists among Korea's fine art community tried to gain a fuller understanding of contemporary Western modern art, namely, expressionism, futurism, surrealism, and so forth, on the basis of Orientalism, and borrow from these schools' in order to create their own works. Furthermore, proponents of Joseon's avant-garde fine arts and artists of the pro-fine art school triggered debate on the traditional viewpoints. After the Sino-Japanese War, these artists continued to embrace Western modern art on the basis of Orientalism. However, since Western modern fine art was regressing into Oriental fine art during this period, Korean artists did not need to research Western modern fine art, but sought to study Joseon's classics and create Joseon's own avant- garde fine art in a movement led by the Munjang group. This research reviews the traditional view espoused by the Munjang group, which represented the avant-garde fine art movement of the post-war period. Advocating Joseon's own current of avant-garde fine art through the Munjang literary magazine, Gil Jin - seop, Kim Yong-jun and others accepted the Japanese fine art community's methodology for the restoration of classicism, but refused Orientalism as an ideology, and attempted to renew their perception of Joseon tradition. The advocation of the restoration of classicism by Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun appears to be similar to that of the Yasuda Yojuro-style restoration of classicism. However, Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun did not seek their sources of classicism from the Three-Kingdoms and Unified Silla periods, which Japan had promoted as a symbol of unity among the Joseon people; instead they sought classicism from the Joseon fine art which the Japanese had criticized as a hotbed of decadence. It was the Joseon period that the Munjang group chose as classicism when Japan was upholding Fascism as a contemporary extremism, and when Hangeul (Korean writing system) was banned from schools. The group highly evaluated literature written in the style of women, especially women's writings on the royal court, as represented by Hanjungnok (A Story of Sorrowful Days). In the area of fine art, the group renewed the evaluation of not only literary paintings, but also of the authentic landscape paintings refused by, and the values of the Chusa school criticized as decadent by, the colonial bureaucratic artists, there by making great progress in promoting the traditional viewpoint. Kim Yong-jun embraced a painting philosophy based on the painting techniques of Sasaeng (sketching), because he paid keen attention to the tradition of literary paintings, authentic landscape paintings and genre paintings. The literary painting theory of the 20th century, which was highly developed, could naturally shed both the colonial historical viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as heteronomical, and the traditional viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as decadent. As such, the Munjang group was able to embrace the Joseon period as the source of classicism amid the prevalent colonial historical viewpoint, presumably as it had accumulated first-hand experience in appreciating curios of paintings and calligraphic works, instead of taking a logical approach. Kim Yong-jun, in his fine art theory, defined artistic forms as the expression of mind, and noted that such an artistic mind could be attained by the appreciation of nature and life. This is because, for the Munjang group, the experience of appreciating nature and life begins with the appreciation of curios of paintings and calligraphic works. Furthermore, for the members of the Munjang group, who were purists who valued artistic style, the concept of individuality presumably was an engine that protected them from falling into the then totalitarian world view represented by the Nishita philosophy. Such a 20th century literary painting theory espoused by the Munjang group concurred with the contemporary traditional viewpoint spearheaded by Oh Se-chang in the 1910s. This theory had a great influence on South and North Korea's fine art theories and circles through the Fine Art College of Seoul National University and Pyongyang Fine Art School in the wake of Korea's liberation. In this sense, the significance of the theory should be re-evaluated.

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A Study on Xu Bing's artworks Contributed to expansion of printmaking in Contemporary Chinese Art (중국 현대미술에서의 판화 매체 확장을 일으킨 쉬빙(徐冰) 작품 연구)

  • Song, Dae-Sup;Cho, Ye-In
    • Cartoon and Animation Studies
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    • s.45
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    • pp.321-343
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this thesis is to look through the political and social background of China preparing for a new era after getting out of the Communist Party of Mao Zedong, rapid inflow of the Western modernism and the avant-garde art arising in China with the focus of art works of Xu Bing, which contributed to the expansion of printmaking of China. Particularly, 85 New Wave Movement arose by young artists since 1985 and the China/Avant-Garde Exhibition held in Beijing in 1989 are the two important issues which reflect a new change from the traditional Chinese art. The artists of 85 New Wave Movement, who pursued a historical revolution and novelty, worked very actively by leading private exhibitions. Since the Cultural Revolution, the government owned the National Museum of Fine Art Beijing had exhibitions on a large scale displaying various visual arts such as performing art, installation, painting, sculpture but the Chinese government interrupted exhibitions two time due to bold performing art and unconcealed installation. Some artists were even taken to the police when performing art. Under these circumstances, Xu Bing, who majored printmaking, produced one of his major works, Books from the sky(1988), while he was working on various experiments focusing on the production process of printmaking and its repetitiveness. Xu Bing devised letters, carved them in trees and finally created approximately 2000 characters. Going further he displayed it as installation work, which means the developed characters go beyond a printed form, for audiences. This made him earn favorable reviews since it was a form of western art coupled with Chinese contents 'Chinese character'. After he received unfavorable reviews, however, he went to America leaving his last work in China, Ghost Pounding the Wall, in 1990, which was not able to exhibited. In those days, China society was going through a chaotic era thanks to the extinction of the Cultural Revolution and Deng Xiaoping's(1904-1997) reformation after the debacle of Tiananmen Massacre. This study looks into Xu Bing's artworks from his initial print works until he went to the US in 1991 and examines how he performed experiments utilizing reproductivity and plurality of prints tinged with Chinese traditional elements, and ultimately became one of the avant-garde artists representing the period.