• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
• /
• no.3
• /
• pp.9-34
• /
• 2005

Contemporary Korean art in the 1960s and the 1970s reflects the social and political contexts in Korea from the 5 16 revolution through the Yoo Shin period. This paper investigates whether art has been free from power or not. It examines the power embedded in contemporary Korean art in the 1960s and the 1970s. This paper examines the historical moments of the Korean Art Exhibition, focusing on the complications between the abstract and figurative artworks of the 1960s. One of the significant art exhibitions since the 8 15 liberation of Korea, the Korean Art Exhibition witnessed conflict among Korean artists who wanted to have power in the art world of Korea. Institutional contradiction based on factionalism and conservatism prevailed in the Korean Art Exhibition was attacked by the avant-garde young artists in the 1960s. With the contact of Abstract Expressionism, young artists' generation participated in the The Wall Exhibition. This exhibition challenged and established moral principles and visualized individual expression and creation similar to the Informal movement in the West. In the world of the traditional painting of Korea, the Mook Lim Exhibition of 1960, organized by young artists of traditional painting, advocated the modernization of Soo Mook paintings. Additionally, abstract sculptures in metal engraving were the new trends in the Korean Art Exhibition. In the 1970s, the economic development and establishment of a dictatorial government made the society stiffen. Abstract expression died out and monochrome painting was the most influential in the 1970s. After the exhibition of Five Korean Artists, Five White Colors in the Tokyo Central Art Museum in 1976, monochrome paintings were formally discussed in Korea. 'Flatness' 'physicality of material' 'action' 'post-image' 'post-subjectivity' and 'oriental spirituality' were the critical terms in mentioning the monochrome paintings of the 1970s. 'Korean beauty' was discussed, focusing on the beauty of white which was addressed by not only Yanagi Muneyoshi but also the policy of national rehabilitation under the Yoo Shin government. At this time, the monochrome paintings of the 1970s in Korea, addressing art for art's sake, cutting of communication with the masses, and elitism, came to be authorized.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
• /
• no.5
• /
• pp.83-107
• /
• 2007

The continuous struggle to establish virtual reality on the stage during the history of Western Theater has been centered upon the development of scenographic setting and devices. It began with the Classical Greek drama where the place of performance became separated from the place of the audience. These two places were united as the orchestra - the place of the Dionysiac festival in the earliest stage of the Greek theater. And the skene, once a storage building outside the theatrical area, became an essential factor of the scenic space to provide illusion of the other world where the actors dwell. As a natural consequence it followed the structural change of Roman theater where the stage became a high and wide platform and the skene converted into the permanent stone scaenae frons. Such a tradition of the Classical theater was revived in Italian Renaissance and Baroque theater, which succeeded Vitruvius' concept of scaenographia as well as the vestiges of Imperial Roman theater. The cases of Serlio, Palladio, and Andrea Pozzo reveal the way how Western theater conjured the fictional space by traditional representational scenery, including architectural background setting and painted devices. It resulted in the physical and emotional division of actors' space and audience's space. The rejection of representational scenery upon the stage by avant garde artists like Edward Gordon Craig in the early years of the twentieth century should be interpreted as an attempt to recover an emotional attachment of actors and the audience, which was the case of Greek antiquity. This new scenogrpahic endeavor in modern theater is to challenge the main purpose of traditional scaenae frons to establish the boundary of the illusional 'scene' of performance where the audience should remain as passive spectators, and instead, to try to unite the action of actors and the audience upon the stage as a 'place'.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.33
• /
• pp.193-239
• /
• 2013

A photograph, which was applied to contemporary art, plays a very important role in the whole of the multiplied and diversified contemporary arts today. The application of photos, which were shown in contemporary art following the 1950s, can be classified into five types according to role and function of a photo in the process of developing a work. However, this classification is shown a little ambiguously. That is because photos of being utilized by artists are indicated very diversely depending on their artistic strategy and situation. As the first type, a few painters utilize a photo as mirror of reality in order to materialize a challenging and revolutionary idea with going against traditional picture in their pictorial practice. As the second classification, especially American painters utilize a photo as material component of forming their picture like photo-montage or collage. The combined application of this medium is first doing genre de-construction and hybridization of post-modernism in the 1980s while ultimately aiming at social criticism or political satire. The third type implies particularly a case that avant-garde artists utilize a photo as evidence of a work. In this case, a photo is employed as evidence of a work, which disappears in the temporal space essentially like body art, land art, and performance. Also, as the fourth type is a case of utilizing a photo for artistic concept of a work, not pictorial practice of picture, it is utilized often as important artistic strategy of conceptual artists. The final type of utilizing photo is a case of applying photo as formative tool on behalf of dye-stuffs or crayon in order to record a section of reality, which always continues regardless of event or meaning any more, in the traditional picture. In this case, a work is indicated as a photo of having a form of picture, namely, as Forme-tableau. The main subject is indicated there as a daily case of being repeated always the extremely common and revived theme.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.23 no.5
• /
• pp.31-47
• /
• 2019

This study focuses on women and fashion in Korea between the 1960s and 1970s, when the government regulated the socio-cultural aspects of individuals while achieving remarkable economic industrialization, particularly through the representative popular weekly magazine 'Sunday-Seoul'. The scope of this study included 168 issues from September 22, 1968 to December 26, 1971. Two research methods were applied, literature research and content analysis research. First, the literature on Korean society, culture, women's fashion, the sociological, feminine and popular cultural studies were reviewed. Thereafter, the contents, cover, articles, pictorials were collected and analyzed for classification and identification of the women's images and women's fashion. In the case of fashion articles, the contents of vocabulary and description texts were highlighted, and in the case of pictorials, the visual elements such as images, silhouettes of clothes, details of features, and patterns of materials were assessed. The images of women in Sunday Seoul's articles and pictorials exhibited extreme opposite, presenting the most important purpose of marriage, 'wise mother and good wife' and 'image of sexual object' for men. The two images of women differed; however, there was one more female image 'industrial laborer' which was placed in the blind spot of interest. The characteristics of fashion which appeared in 'Sunday-Seoul' were 'uniform modern elegance' based on neat mini-style, and 'sexual image of exposure fashion' which endeavored to selectively borrow from overseas pictorials and trend-oriented articles. This could be viewed as a 'transformation of traditional Hanbok', 'avant-garde trend' and 'de-sexualization & indifference of fashion'.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.281-296
• /
• 2017

Andrei Amalrik's plays are a unique phenomenon in the 70 years' history of Soviet drama. Half a century after the Soviet theater had intentionally forgotten its own achievements of avant-garde dramaturgy in the early 20th century, his bizarre plays suddenly emerged in the Soviet theater environment, completely separated from contemporary Western practices of the experimental theater. Surprisingly even now, Amalrik's plays have almost been forgotten not only in Russia but also by foreign Russian literary scholars. Amalrik's autobiographical essay is his only book published in Russia after the collapse of the Soviet regime. There is no collection of his works, and reevaluation of his work is not found even in Russia. However, Amalrik is a writer who should get a proper evaluation. The purpose behind studying his plays is to restore the tradition of Russian grotesque-absurd dramaturgy, which has been inherited from Gogol, Khlevnikov, Mayakovsky, and Oberiu. In this paper, we will analyze the mechanism of composition in Amalrik's plays.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.3
• /
• pp.222-238
• /
• 2019

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$" to contemporary men's fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$," which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion characteristics of fashion magazine cover by comparing and analyzing the formative characteristics of fashion, visual design characteristics and illustration vocabulary on the cover of 3 fashion magazines. The data analysis criteria consisted of the formative elements of fashion (fashion design element, fashion coordination element) and visual design element (color, illustration lexical layout, model photograph type). Data analysis methods were statistical analysis, stepwise lexical analysis, and content analysis. The results of the study are as follows. First, the formative characteristics of fashion on the cover of fashion magazines show that ELLE is a feminine and elegant characteristics, VOGUE is a modern, chic and mannish characteristics, and W is avant-garde and neutral characteristics. Second, visual design characteristics on the cover of fashion magazines, ELLE and VOGUE use modern and simple modern sensibility by using monotonous background color and background color number, and W showed original image characteristic by using various colors. Third, as a result of the illustration lexical analysis on the cover of fashion magazines, 4 core keywords of trend, star, event, and life appeared in 3 magazines in common. Elle differentiates by innovation, Vogue by discrimination, W by reconstruction.

• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
• /
• v.14 no.8
• /
• pp.131-140
• /
• 2020

This article attempted to apply the methodology of film acting as a performance oriented towards socio-cultural meaning to Min-sik Choi's acting. Specifically, the relationship between the body, the face, the audio, the direction and the attitude toward film technology mentioned in the interview dictation of actor Choi Min-sik was analyzed. In conclusion, Min-sik Choi's acting cannot be defined only by method acting, but implies or integrates the typical or avant-garde acting theories such as Stanislavsky, Strasberg, Mayerhold, Brecht and Grotovski. Above all, it is the presentation that expresses the flow of life through movement suggested by S. Kracauer. The feeling of compassion that Choi Min-sik himself emphasizes is in contact with the essence of the film that reproduces the flow of life, and it expands to an intended screen performance with a certain purpose. The screen performance that can be compressed with compassion and the flow of life is expressed by Min-sik Choi's various personas. His persona, transcending good and evil, reflects the present of Korean society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.1
• /
• pp.91-106
• /
• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.36
• /
• pp.183-203
• /
• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.