• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.97-111
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• 2020

Classifying clothing fabrics into fashion images lacks research, but is necessary due to the short cycle of fashion and rapidly changing modern trends as consumers seek to satisfy various needs with an increase of online purchases. There is also a lack of research on fashion trend books which attach real fabrics. Therefore, this study aims to help the planning field by recognizing fabric sensibility related to the fabric image perceived by consumers. The data analysis results from descriptive statistics, t-test, and ANOVA using SPSS are as follows: Differences in the visual tactility evaluation related to the consumer recognized fabric images showed more significant differences in F/W seasons. The elegance image was shown as relatively thick, the avant-garde image was shown as relatively heavy, thick fabric. The feminine image was shown as relatively thin and smooth fabric, the sporty images were shown to be moist, flexible and elastic, and the mannish images were relatively rough. The romantic images were shown as relatively thin fabrics. The conclusions inferred from the visual tactile evaluation related to the fabric images recognized by consumers vary by major, so the prior information concerning fabrics and trends can affect the selection of images. The results of this study show that in order to produce clothes suitable for fashion product planning by learning about visual tactility that consumers recognize, fabrics component data displayed in fashion trend books from 2016 to 2018 are needed, so the planner can receive help when selecting the fabrics suitable for each trend.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.25-38
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• 2000

This study focuses on the Russian Constructivist Textile Design in the post-revolutionary period, of the early 20th century. Russian textile of the time is highly valued in the west in terms of innovative changes in aesthetic directions, which has become one of the most important centers for the development of new textiles, or the origin of industrial design. Most of brilliant mass-production patterns were produced specially by the pioneers of constructivists such as Stepanova and Popova who were influenced by 'Maxism' through the Revolution regarded themselves as productivists for the proletariat. They were inspired by the avant-garde movements, which were involved with traditionalism, futuristic mechanism, stylization of nature, pure geometrical and abstract form. Early textile design was based on the relationship between the graphic methods of design and the technology because they regarded art as physical, intellectual and technical production. They created all the excitement made from the primary simplest forms of precise mathmatical shapes, such as the circle, the triangle, the rectangle and horizontle and vertical lines. These geometric design can be interpreted as the mechanization of the artists'labor, or methods in line with the technology of mass production, however partly roots in the rich tradition of Russian decorative art. On the other hand, stable crystalline construction on the surface reflect urban architectural complex, and the world of industry in graphic form. They were interested in illusion of movement, cinematic movement of vertical linear rhythms, optical formations and vibrations, by composing a multi-leveled constructions by several spatial planes, or color-field, and combining structures of several intersecting matrices, and superimposing parts of the forms on each other. All these characteristics of the Russian textile designs reflect the complex interactions between 'art and society' of Constructivist's idea and represent the traits of the epoch.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.27-50
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• 2010

This paper was to analyze the fusion between the organic and inorganic characteristics performed in architecture and urbanism, especially on the characteristics found in the works of Archigram group who was very active during 1960s and 70s. Generally, it was thought that Archigram drew its ideas mainly from a mechanist metaphor and that the diagrams of its members were based on the notion of the material obsolescence, which could be placed in a British tectonic tradition. But, Archigram's works has been continually influenced by the biological-organic analogy from the birth of the group to its dissolution. Simply, the importance that the biological-organic analogy takes in the works of Archigram has changed periodically according to the change of its members. We can divide generally Archigram group in two parts : on one hand, nascent members such as Peter Cook, Dennis Greene, Michael Webb ; on the another hand, three members who participated from LCC such as Warren Chalk, Ron Herron, Dennis Crompton. As the new three LCC members participated, Archigram Group focalized on the technological part more than ever. But, when its members dispersed geographically and professionally, its biological-organic analogy came out again at the surface of their works. However, Archigram's organic and inorganic characteristics did not always adhere in opposing position with each other and took the form of coexistence in harmony at the same period. That is, the works of Archigram were persuing the creation of community that nature, technology and architecture could communicate and harmonize with each other through the intergration between organic and inorganic characteristics. The reason why Archigram became the one of the most excellent architectural avant-garde group in the 60s was mainly to receive asssitance with the fact that two small groups having contradictory tendencies got together and formed the Archigram group.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.185-199
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• 2004

This study is intended to examine Honore Daurnier's realism formativeness, review it in connection with socio-cultural conditions, analyze costume designs by a style of realism formativeness, in order to find the value. For the study, the procedure included the review of Daurnier's works and world, together with realism formativeness. Then, Daurnier's realism formativeness applied to costume designs were categorized and found the features of each style. Finally, it sought the implication of realism formativeness in costume designs. Honore Daumier, a realist of France in the 19th century, has been reputed that he pursues plain reality with a satire, uses all the conditions of humans as his object, and observes the vanity, desire, and foolishness of humans to represent his own expression techniques as cold as a stone. Realism formativeness is characterized by adherence to observing reality and engagement in reality, an effort to represent the world as it is as what we sense it without diluting or omitting it, nor any deception. The following terms can be used to describe the three styles of intentional recreation, satire on reality, and real existence; For intentional recreation in costume may be featured by the avant-garde, the pursuit of autonomy, reconstruction, rediscovery, recombination, reinterpretation, neutralized representation (reality ＋ the abstract), transformation, distortion, shock, and unexpectedness, etc. For satire on reality in costume, satirical criticism and mockery in a coexistence of time and space, dualism due to the combination of the exterior and the interior, reality reflecting the actual reality, and irony are those words. Real existence in costume may be described with objectivity, ordinariness, correctness of representing a theme, impersonality excluding subjectivity, clearness, certainness, and preciseness, etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.8
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• pp.33-53
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• 2003

A Study on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong and Italian futurist fashion It is generally recognized that the color scheme and its characteristics as a product of living culture are strongly reflected in clothing. This study concentrates on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong which has been used in traditional Korean clothing and Italian futurist fashion which showed dynamic characteristics and brilliant colors. The purpose of this study is to investigate the external format, emotions, functions and meanings of the colors in Korean Saek-dong and Futurist fashion, and to find similarities and differences between them. The results of the study are as follows. The similarities between them are harmony of vivid colors like a rainbow, no-use of black color and expression of rhythm through repeated geometrical shapes. They have been used as festive costumes and have implied meaning of happiness and pleasure. The differences, in the external formats, are as follows. Korean Saek-dong has striped patterns including the color white, and has regular distances among the stripes. But, Futurist fashion includes luminous or fluorescent colors and metallic colors. In addition, it has repeated motifs of geometrical shapes and geometrically divided areas. While Saek-dong expresses Sangsaeng through the conceptual use of color, Futurist fashion shows simultaneity, speed and dynamics through spiritual functions of crossing and inter-penetration. In emotional aspect, Saek-dong expresses pleasure of children's mind and Futurist fashion expresses pleasure of city. In functional aspect, Saek-dons expresses a concept of ceremonial beauty, which is spiritual and symbolizes good auspices, holiness and sorcery. So it is used for ceremonial costume. But, Futurist fashion reflects the harmony of colors created from modem and urban images and shows the willingness and emotion of solving futuristic avant-garde, modernity, dynamics, transformation and bellicosity. So it is used for daywear. While Saek-dong represents succession of tradition, Futurist fashion represents resistance of tradition in cultural aspects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.21-39
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• 1995

By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to analyze the coordination images seen in comprehensive fashion items and their features. This will be done from the viewpoint of both the creativity as well as functional characteristics of items and images. For the method of study, I explored the idea of "snood" style, analyzing its features of 42 pictures appearing from the 2006 S/S to 2010 F/W collection. It is important to note that "snood" style has the characteristics of both a muffler and turtleneck. With looping design connected at both ends, it can be placed around the neck or head, creating the image of wearing a hood. After having examined the selected data and pictures, one can largely divide the exclusive high-fashion image categories into three types: feminine, avant-garde, and finally, active & functional sportive image. First, the orthodox image is widely accepted by most as it has forever evolved within the original tradition of the practically functional muffler(scarf). Second, since the metamorphic image tends to lend itself to free ideas, you can wear a snood around the shoulders like a collar. Worn together with the same type of clothing, the snood can be seen as an effective suit. Third, the aim of image emphasis is to highlight certain points, or make some features more noticeable, as a means of possibly attracting more interest and attention. The image of snood arises out of the use of shapes, colors, and other accessory parts. As mentioned earlier, snood stands out as an independent item instead of just being an accessory to clothing. Its primary function as a style coordinator is emphasized in order to create more distinctive fashion images. Through this study, I thereby intend to provide fashion style data on the latest trends, and high-fashion codes of snood coordination.