• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.315-333
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to find out how the aesthetic values and characters of the Avant-garde fashion through semantics analysis of Avant-garde experiments in the early 20th century. Inner expressions of Avant-garde fashion in future dynamism, alien-hostile, and surreal-experimentalism are as followings (1) Reject tradition of existing fashion concept, (2) Dismantle costume material and inter-text characteristics in fashion field, (3) Laugh at material civilization and elite fashion, (4) Pursue primitive and fundamental sensibility on non-civilized world (5) Express human estrangement due to material civilization, (6) Remove the barrier of fashion between luxury and cheap ones, (7) Time, space and purpose is mixed, (8) Open concept as space structure independent of human body, (9) Complicatedness, ambiguity and expression of irregularity as changeableness, (10) Dismantle concept of beauty and ugliness. As you see, fashion design in modern Avan-garde is pursuing newness as beauty of open concept, rejecting all modern tradition and allowing extremity such as experimental, illogic, unreasonable and non-formatted expressions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.413-426
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• 2020

This study researches the association between associative vocabulary and fashion image language in order to extract ideas that can be used as basic data for design ideas. Classic - avant-garde imaged language were chosen as theme words and each 70 questionnaires per a final image word were used for analysis. We obtained the following results by researching keywords that explained classic image words through a word cloud technique. It was found to have high central representation in the order of suit, classical, basic, music, Chanel, black and traditional. The core key words explaining avant-garde image language were found to have a central representation in the order of : peculiar, huge, Comme des Garçons, artistic, creative, deconstruction and individuality. We extracted the necessary idea dimensions needed for design ideas through associative network graph analysis. In the case of classical image language, it was named as the Mannish Item, Music, Modern Color, and the Traditional Classicality dimensions. In the case of avant-garde image language, it was named as the Key Image, Artistic Aura, Key Design and Designers dimensions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.727-739
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to present the objective evaluation semantic scale of avant-garde design. Apparel majors were asked to express associative vocabulary, design development, and final design intentions for the avant-garde, and the final 70 copies were used for analysis. The results found the item style was shown often in the order of dress, coat, and combination of shirt and pants. In order, the silhouettes appeared as atypical, complex, square, and triangular; the decorations appeared as feathers, frills, and round sculptures; and the idea method appeared as extreme, association, and removal method. In examining the relations of associative words and idea designs, the dress had relations with associative words such as 'peculiar,' 'futuristic,' 'fancy,' 'Comme des Garcons,' and 'deconstruction.' As for the relationship between the idea design and the expression image vocabulary, it was found that 'one piece' recalled 'huge,' 'volume,' 'abundant,' 'peculiar,' and 'unknown,' while 'coat' recalled 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' and 'padding.' In conducting the word cloud technique, the overall design showed the central keywords were 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' 'unbalance,' 'feather,' 'structural,' 'unknown,' and 'frill,' in order.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제18권8호
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• pp.671-678
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• 2018

B급영화는 A급영화에 대비되는 용어로 경제공황기에 탄생하였다. 할리우드는 관객유치를 위하여 A급영화와 B급영화의 동시상영을 기획했으며, A급영화는 수익창출을 위해, B급영화는 수지균형을 위해 제작되었다. B급영화는 저예산, 저기술영화임에도 불구하고 자신만의 스타일과 미학을 가지고 있었으며, 역설적으로 영화를 창의적이고 혁신적으로 만들었다. 역사적으로 B급 영화는 유럽과 미국의 전위영화와 연계되어있다. 초창기 B급영화 감독 중 주목할 만한 로버트 플로리는 전위영화의 전통과 주류영화의 관습을 결합했으며 B급영화감독이 누리는 자유를 선호하였다. 로버트 플로리는 실험영화의 성공으로 헐리우드에서 와 를 감독하게 된다. 는 호러영화 장르를 통해, 는 스릴러영화 장르를 통해 아방가르드의 독특한 스타일과 주제를 보여 주고 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.737-752
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.3176-3182
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• 2014

본 논문은 유럽에서 근대건축의 헤게모니 다툼이 치열하게 전개되고 있던 1920년대 일본의 근대건축이 어떠한 성향을 지니면서 발전하게 되는지를 분리파건축회(Japanese Secessionist)의 건축이론과 작품을 통해 살펴보고자 한다. 분리파건축회는 1920년부터 1928년까지 9년이라는 짧은 시간동안 활동한 전위예술가(Avant-garde) 단체이지만, 이들의 도전적이고 활발한 활동이 일본 근대건축의 전통성 논쟁을 비롯해 예술가의 지위에 대한 논란을 불러일으켰다는 점에서 근대건축의 발전에 있어 중요한 위치를 차지하고 있다. 본 논문은 분리파건축회가 창립하게 되는 배경과 더불어 일본 근대건축의 중요한 역사적 사건으로 평가할 수 있는 제반요소들을 제시하고자 한다. 또한, 이들의 급진적인 건축관을 당대 유럽 건축계의 흐름과 대비시켜 파악하고, 근대건축의 전반적인 맥락에서 분리파건축회가 지니는 건축적 경향과 특징을 규명하고자 한다.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제33권
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• pp.95-120
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• 2013

This study is about small theaters in Paris which produced the theater of the avant-garde(or theatre of the absurd) in the 50s. Paris was at the center of astonishing passion by small theaters in terms of spectacle. Small theaters actively embraced young actors/actresses, theater troupe and playwrights who created a new way to express their plays. They were mostly obscure but showed talent and genius. So playwrights came from abroad such as E. Ionesco, S. Beckett, A. Adamov and others were able to create a new type of comedy and experience theatrical realization. On the other hand, a great many drama creators such as R. Blin, N. Bataille, J.-M. Serreau, J. $No{\ddot{e}}l$ and others appeared. We focused on studying about life of small theaters in Paris as mentioned earlier. The space of representation were limited. They were mostly about ridiculing of dramaturgy of comedy and theatrical realization. The substandard situations and conditions of small theaters fell far short of advantages of spectacle. Some of the theaters - Babylone, Noctambules, Nouveau Lancry, Quartier-latin - have not been able to survive up to this day. Other Theaters - Huchette and Poche-Montparnasse - have been able to last by performing creative activities. The theaters of the avant-garde are historic places of Drama Art. It is quite astonishing that some of the monuments did not last any longer. These were the places where La Cantatrice chauve by Ionesco and En attendant Godot by Beckett were premiered. When will they be restored to their original state? Meanwhile, the theater of Huchette have performed the comedies of Ionesco for last 60 years without a break. It becomes the museum of theater of the absurd that is the cradle of modern play. In conclusion, a great many play creators like playwrights, directors and set designers saw the light of day because of small theaters when there were not enough support fund. Their passion and curiosity still make us look forward to emerging of new drama.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.53-71
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to determine the fashion images implied in men's fashion trends and systematize the characteristics of the textile materials used for fashion images, by analyzing men's fashion trends published by Korean fashion information service companies. This study would be meaningful if it can suggest some objective criteria for the characteristics of textile per fashion image. The researcher analyzed the data on the basis of 8 fashion images, which were ethnic, modern, traditional, avant-garde, active, romantic, natural, techno ones. Above men's fashion images were choosed by analyze the some literatures and men's fashion trend information. The data used for this study were information about S/S and F/W men's fashion trends published by Interfashion planning, Samsung fashion Research Center for the period of 1995-2000. The data collected were subject to “content analysis method”. As a result of the analysis, the major images of 1995-2000 were natural, active, traditional, modern, ethnic, avant-garde, techno images, and while such combinations of conflicting images as ethnic/modern, traditional/avant-garde, natural/techno. Other mixed images were ethnic/natural, modern/active, tradional/active, traditional/modern, romantic/modern, ethnic/romantic, traditional/natural, modern/natural, active/natural, active/traditional/natural, etc. The various characteristics of eight men's fashion images were found in color, pattern and textile materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2003

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Sonia Delaunay′s works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration. One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Sonia Delaunay′s art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts" are among the earliest example of the aesthetic. In Delaunay′s geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of "simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. Colour as well as Collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity. Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.