• Title/Summary/Keyword: Avant-Garde

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Difference, not Differentiation: The Thingness of Language in Sun Yung Shin's Skirt Full of Black

  • Shin, Haerin
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.64 no.3
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    • pp.329-345
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    • 2018
  • Sun Yung Shin's poetry collection Skirt Full of Black (2007) brings the author's personal history as a Korean female adoptee to bear upon poetic language in daring formal experiments, instantiating the liminal state of being shuttled across borders to land in an in-between state of marginalization. Other Korean American poets have also drawn on the experience of transnational adoption and racialization explore the literary potential of English to materialize haunting memories or the untranslatable yet persistent echoes of a lost home that gestures across linguistic boundaries, as seen in the case of Lee Herrick or Jennifer Kwon Dobbs. Shin however dismantles the referential foundation of English as a language she was transplanted into through formal transgressions such as frazzled syntax, atypical typography, decontextualized punctuation marks, and phonetic and visual play. The power to signify and thereby differentiate one entity or meaning from another dissipates in the cacophonic feast of signs in Skirt Full of Black; the word fragments of identificatory markers that turn racialized, gendered, and culturally contained subjects into exotic things lose the power to define them as such, and instead become alterities by departing from the conventional meaning-making dynamics of language. Expanding on the avant-garde legacy of Korean American poets Theresa Hak Kyung Cha and Myung Mi Kim to delve further into the liminal space between Korean and American, referential and representational, or spoken and written words, Shin carves out a space for discreteness that does not subscribe to the hierarchical ontology of differential value assignment.

Appropriation of objects in critical fashion (크리티컬 패션의 오브제 전유 전략)

  • Jung, Junghee;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.

A Study on the Fahion Design of MÜNN from the Perspective of Defamiliarization (낯설게 하기(Defamiliarization)를 통해 본 Münn의 패션 디자인 고찰)

  • Lim, Boyeon;Kim, Jiyoung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2022
  • In the fashion industry, the demand for new perspectives to express creativity has always been high. Expression of new perspectives allows creative ideas to emerge, thereby breaking away from habitual and familiar perceptions. The purpose of this study is to identify and analyze how the theory of defamiliarization is being applied in fashion design by the brand Münn, which claims defamiliarization as a design philosophy. The study examined the concepts and the characteristics of Viktor Shklovsky by literature review and derived the main characteristics of the defamiliarization theory for fashion design analysis based on studies that used defamiliarization in other fields. Furthermore, after analyzing Münn's collection, we found how the main characteristics of defamiliarization derived from reviews were expressed in Münn's designs. The defamiliarization in Münn's collection was first, 'breakaway from stereotype' appeared through re-recognition of perception and unexpected use of heterogeneous materials. Second, 'distortion and analogy through image' was revealed through the East and West clothing-making methods, which broke away from the stereotype of image and the juxtaposition and cultural reconstruction of details. Third, 'transition of viewpoint' was shown as an avant-garde sense through the conversion of usage purpose of design, material, or items in which subjects and objects were converted with conceptual design and material or silhouette.

Image expression of simulacre in fashion photography- Focusing on - (패션사진에 나타난 시뮬라크르의 이미지 표현 - <보그 라이크 어 페인팅전(展)>을 중심으로 -)

  • Sero, Lee;Mijeong, Kwon;Sookhyun, Park
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.861-879
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    • 2022
  • Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

A Case Study of Russian Modern Fashion Applying Russian Folk Crafts and Art (러시아 민속공예와 예술을 적용한 러시아 현대패션의 사례연구)

  • Jung, Jueun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.41-52
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    • 2022
  • Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Russian public has been rapidly adapting to belated globalization, consistent with the ever-changing market economy. The purpose of this study was to investigate the social background and modern fashion of Russia after the collapse of the Soviet system and consider the characteristics of modern Russian fashion that have emerged in various ways amid the social changes. This study has significance in expanding the breadth of understanding the rapidly growing modern Russian fashion by considering modern Russian fashion and preparing the foundation while filling the need for research on the Russian fashion market, which has great potential. In the scope of the study, we investigated fashion from the post-2000s, when consumption began in earnest after Russia suffered a period of social and economic turmoil and switched to a liberalistic economy in 1991, to the present. In addition, we conducted an analysis focusing on the works of fashion designers who came from Russia and actively participated in work activities in Russia or abroad. Russian fashion designers reflect the unique cultural characteristics of Russia in their designs and incorporate Russian art into their designs to represent new fashion. Through continuous attempts for creative fashion design, modern Russian fashion will be developed in more diverse ways in the future. Thus, a follow-up study using various approaches to Russian fashion is needed.

A Study on Korean Fashion Designers' Stage Costumes (국내 패션 디자이너의 공연의상 디자인 연구)

  • Jinyoung Ryu;Jiyeon Kim
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.115-132
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    • 2023
  • The globalization of Korean culture has spurred a steady increase in the participation of domestic fashion designers in global performance art. This study analyzes the formal elements of stage costume designs by fashion designers, and further evaluates the impact of these designers' aesthetic philosophies on overall performance. This analysis seeks to provide a foundation for the development of new directionality in performance art, with an enhanced competitiveness derived from diversity and creativity. The scope of this research spans 15 performances and eight fashion designers' works in the post-2010s era. These performances are characterized by their break from traditional artistic norms, illustrating the modernization of the performing arts and reflecting the designers' aesthetic philosophies. This modernization incorporates inspirations drawn from a diverse selection of movements, such as fusion, culture clash, kitsch, and minimal avant-garde. As a result, in combination with a pure reflection of the designers' aesthetics, these designs heighten overall performance, suggest a new direction for traditional performance art, tap into a popular sensibility to expand communication to a wider audience, and push the boundaries of tradition through artistic innovation.

A study on the futuristic concept fashion style of K-pop music videos -Focusing on the 4th generation girl groups- (케이팝 뮤직비디오의 미래주의 컨셉 패션 스타일 연구 -4세대 걸그룹을 중심으로-)

  • Xie Xiaoying;Youngjae Lee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.104-121
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    • 2024
  • This study examined the integration of futurist fashion in 4th-generation K-pop girl groups, focusing on their world views, music videos, and fashion images. The key aim was to identify and analyze distinctive elements of futurist fashion within K-pop. K-pop's global popularity is driven by dynamic music, choreography, and avant-garde fashion. Futurism, an art movement emphasizing technology and innovation, continues to influence contemporary fashion trends in K-pop. This study seeks to provide insights into symbolic meanings and expressions of futurist fashion in 4th generation K-pop girl groups. Groups such as Gidle, Aespa, IVE, LE SSERAFIM, and New Jeans were analyzed. Data were collected from their music videos, lyrics, and costumes, focusing on silhouette, color, material, and pattern. This study highlights the significant role of futurist fashion in K-pop, showing how 4th-generation girl groups lead in integrating these elements. This research provides valuable insights for understanding and further exploring the evolution of K-pop fashion.

Yoo Young-kuk's Early Constructivism: Utopianism in (1937) (유영국(劉永國)의 초기 구성주의: <랩소디>(1937)에 나타난 유토피아니즘)

  • 유영아
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.9
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    • pp.93-121
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    • 2010
  • This study is about Yoo Young-kuk's early works which show constructivism, especially focus on his debut painting, for the 7th Dokuritsu Bijutsu Kyokai(獨立美術協會, the Independent Fine Arts Association) in Tokyo in 1937. The work was painted 2 years after he had started his study in Japan in 1935. It was the first painting that applied Constructivism. played an important role for Constructivism to be a leading art in his abstraction. After this picture, Yoo was soon devoted to the principles of Constructivism-- Faktura(material), Tektonika (tectonics), Tekhnika(technique), space, construction-- in his painterly reliefs. This article examined why Yoo concentrated on Constructivism for , what the characteristics were, and what influences were on other works from 1935 to 1949. In addition, I investigated in which period was painted and how Constructivism was spread in 1930s and early 1940s in chapter 2. I scrutinized Rhapsody in chapter 3. When Yoo created Japan was under the Fifteen Years War(1931-1945), and a major discourse was the Japanese Spirit at that time. It was connected with construction of an ideal nation which the Japanese ultra-national fascism pursued. This ideological pursuit was intended to unite the Japanese people for total war system and to restore a national dignity which had been fallen down due to Manchurian Incident(1931). Thus, on the hand, Kokusai Bunka Shinkokai(國際文化振興, The Society for International Cultural Relations) and the Nippon Kosaku Bunka Renmei(日本工作文化連盟, Japanese Werkbund) were supported financially by the Japanese government. On the other hand, the government enacted regulations to opposing parties which would distract Japanese people's unification. As for the Japanese art world, the merge of art groups was carried out through remodeling of Teikoku Bijutsuin(帝國美術院, The Imperial Fine Arts Academy) in 1935. This brought out continuous dispute and disorder. Young artists who felt difficulty of entering an entry of Imperial Fine Arts Exhibition repeatedly grouped and disbanded for small art groups to build their standing, which they pursued Surrealism and Abstract art. Among them Constructivism was considered as the latest trend and was popular in craft, design, architecture as well as fine arts. In the year before he painted , Avant-garde theatres including Constructivism theatre were introduced in a feature article of September, 1936 in Atelier, which was dealing with mainly avant-garde arts. Books related with Constructivism were translated into Japanese, and Gestaltung Education had become active since the publication of A Compendium of Gestaltung Education("構成敎育大系"(1934)), Salvador Dali(1904-1989) was also introduced, so Surrealism was drawn more attention by young artists. reflected popular trends. Yoo analyzed the Japanese avant-gardists' archaic taste in the Independent Art Association that he submitted his painting to. And then he entitled 'Rhapsody' which derives from Ancient Greek's epic poetry and deliberately set up images in a scene. In chapter 3, I examined a theme which was planned carefully by sorting favorite images from the Japanese Surrealism. was a result that Yoo Young-kuk observed objectively the phenomenon that young artists dreamt of Utopia or longed for Nostalgia passively and lethargically under wars. And then he otherized himself from that circumstance. First of all, for he used the typical icons of Japanese Surrealism such as the horizon, flowing clouds, and vast plain that were considered stereotypes of Arcadia. He, however distinguished himself form those Japanese Surrealists. He made his own vision about Utopia by referring Lyubov Popova(1889-1924)'s stage design. His objective point of view was expressed by positive and dynamic images of structure and human's actions. Constructivism which was attempted in had an effect on other early constructive works, and the principles of Constructivism were sought hard in reliefs, paintings, and photos.

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A Study on Men's Fashion Image Coordination through Trend Analysis (트렌드 분석을 통한 남성 패션 이미지 연출에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Yoon Kyoung;Lee Kyoung Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.5 s.142
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    • pp.703-714
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

A Study on Grotesquery Aesthetic Reflected Interculturalism in Stage Costume - The Case of Oh, Tae-seok's - (문화상호주의가 반영된 공연 예술 의상의 그로테스크적 특성 연구 - 오태석의 <심청이는 왜 두 번 인당수에 몸을 던졌는가>를 중심으로 -)

  • Yang, Yong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.923-938
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    • 2009
  • Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

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