• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.573-585
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• 2023

Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.71-75
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• 1998

The Miaos who is the minority people mainly living in the southwestern part of China, expressed their indicator and solidarity through the costume in order to maintain their racial character while experiencing numerous adversities over thousands of years, where the costume has served as a source of cohesion as well as a primitive religious thought, and also showed their faith, desire, longing and aspiration. This study examined the Miao's traditional costume by classifying it into the following; hair style, headdress, upper and lower garments, and other costume. And the silver ornaments used for attire and their symbolic meaning were examined. The result of the study is summarized as follows. 1. The reason that types of the costume has been diversified is because there was promise of ancestors who intended to differently express the type of a kind as symbol of the racial branch that is the Miao's special type of society. Thus, the costume type could tell where a tribe live. Another reason is because only marriage between families with different surname but the same type of costume was accepted. 2. As women made and wore the costume themselves, it also served as a means of being proud of their skill or wealth, they tried to make it more beautiful and it was also used as a token of marriage or love between relatively enlightened men and women. 3. The design used on the costume was expressed as a symbolic meaning of indicator to strengthen the racial solidarity because it connoted worship to ancestors who had experienced lots of adversities. 4. The hair style was expressed in various styles by using Kache such as Chukye, Byunbal and Kokye. It is likely that ornaments used on the head of women in the form of cow's horn or silver crown were used as one of the methods to stress the valuableness of the cattle that were essential to agricultural life. In addition, various styles of turbans were used to indicate the respective regions. 5. Cock's feather ornaments or silver ornaments in the form of pheasant's feather on the edge of women's skirts, peasant's feathers that men wore on their head, or Baekjoui and men wore resulted from the Miaos' thought of adoration for birds, which implied a primitive religious meaning. 6. As the region where the Miaos live yields much silver, the silver ornaments were mostly used to be proud of wealth, which symbolized light and pureness.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.5-22
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• 1996

the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제20권
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• pp.61-76
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• 2018

국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 유물의 전시와 안전한 보호를 위한 보존처리를 진행하기에 앞서 갑옷의 특징과 종류를 파악하여 안전하고 정확한 보존처리의 기초자료를 위해 이론적 연구를 실시하였다. 연구 결과 첫째, 갑옷의 명칭은 색, 재료, 신분, 갑옷의 부위까지 함께 나열하여 세부적인 특징의 차이에 따라 기록하였다. 명칭을 표기하는 순서는 대부분 색상과 직물, 다음으로 철이나 가죽 등의 재료가 나열되며, 앞부분은 의(衣), 뒷부분은 갑찰의 재료, 또는 신분만으로 명칭을 기록하였다. 둘째, 갑옷에 사용된 재료는 직물, 가죽, 금속이며, 철갑(鐵甲), 피갑(皮甲), 지갑(紙甲), 엄심갑(淹心甲), 단갑(緞甲)등으로 분류할 수 있다. 셋째, 갑옷의 구조와 착장방법에 따라 크게 4가지의 유형으로 나뉘며 국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 4점은 그 중 임진왜란 이후부터 19세기 말, 20세기 초까지 입혀진 보편적 양식인 포형(袍型) 갑옷 양식에 포함되며 보군(步軍)이 착용하였던 갑옷임을 확인할 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.169-186
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• 1999

The objectives of the present study were to investigate the relationship between self-concept and clothing buying pattern in accordence with their self-concept. The method employed to conduct this study was normative-descriptive survey using questionnaires. Subjects were 438 high school girls in Seoul and the survery was implemented from the begining of May 1998 to the end of June 1998. The questionnaires were completed by students during class. Mean Standard Deviation Chi-Squeare and t-test were employed to analize the data gathered. The results are summarzed as follows: (1) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self identity self satisfacton self behavior physcial self moral ethical self personal self and family self cares more about economical efficiency of clothing than the group who has the lower score. (2) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self satisfaction personal self and family self attachs greater importance to the practical use of clothing than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. (3) The group who has the higher total positive self score cares originality more than the group who has the lower score when they purchase outdoor garment. (4) The group who has the lower social self score cares modesty and ostentation more than the group who scored higher in social self. (5) The group who has the higher score in positive self behavior personal self and family self cares about convenence in care and maintenance of the clothing than the group has the lower score. (6) Friends buying and use experiences of herself and the observation of other's attire are the main source of fashion information for the present Korean high school girls. The group who has the higher score in total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfactio self behavior used their own experiences more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score of total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfaction self behavior uses family members more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score in self identity and self behavior uses store displays more often than the group who scored lower. (7) Bonded processing goods stores or fancy goods shops(haberdashery) located in trendy shopping district discount stores and outlet stores of the famous manufactures are main places where Korean high school girls buy their outdoor garments. The group who has the higher score in social self, self identity and personal self uses department stores more often and rerely shops at bonded processing goods stores of fancy goods shops located in thendy shopping district compared to those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.72-88
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• 2011

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.

• 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국자원식물학회 2002년도 심포지엄
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• pp.96-97
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• 2002

Bottle gourd, Lagenaria siceraria, is one of the oldest cultivated plants. To bigin with, its fruit was used as a complete liquid bottle or container. It was a very widespread cultivated plant in prehistoric times, for example (there) is a report from Peru as early as between 13,000 B.C and 11,000 B.C. The dug-out finds in Japan proved to be about 95,000 years old according to the /sup 14/C analysis. The bottle grourd was the most important plant before the invention of pottery in many areas of Asia, New Guinea, Polynesia, America, and Africa. I would like to suggest that there should be "The Bottle Gourd Age" prior to the Pottery Age. Bottle gourds are also used for various purposes such as food, masks, pipes, musical instruments, medicine, symbols, artistic products and also as penis-sheaths of men's attire. Their purposes number more than 220 including 70 varienties of containers or bottles. I consider that its utilization should be called a culture, as it were, "The gourd culture." The shape and the size of the fruit of bottle gourd have a larger variety than those of any other plant. As for the size, it is reported that they range from those that are shorter than 3cm to those that are ovoid and longer than 60cm in diameter. With regard to the shape of its fruit, the bottle gourd can be classified into 7 groups and even more than 30 races, considering the difference of the size. The seeds are so variable without two horn-like projections, with smooth surface or longitudinalines, white or brown, with smooth corky margin. Generally, it seems that there is no correlation between seem shape and fruit shape. My study shows that the seeds of gourd. My study shows that the seeds of gourd in Asia are so simple in shape and in color except for the size. But the seeds of those in Africa are various and seem to be beyond the confines. Explaining the great diversity of the seeds of those in Africa therefore, they appear to have no correlation among the types of fruit of the bottle gourd with African origin. It might be supposed that another 4 wild Lagenaria spp. distribute only in Africa. The intraspecies hybrid is confirmed between the bottle gourd, Lagenaria siceraria, and wild L. spehaerica. And Fl hybrid is sterile: it has no fertility. However, even though the shapes of the fruit and the seeds are different, they can cross with each other. Moreover, their hybrids grow up to be extremely vigorous and have normal fertility. Fruit shapes of Fl plants are similar to those of their parents, if they have the same character. Whereas, the fruit shape often became different from each other when the cross occurs between those with different fruit shapes. It is shown that dumbbell shapes, HYOTAN in Japanese, is recessive while its bitterness is dominant. Thus the character of F2 hybrids Is segregative. I'll give further particulars of the heredity of the groud in my lecture.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2010

바지교복의 활성화를 위하여 서울시 여자 중고등학교 학생들의 바지교복 착용현황과 바지교복에 대한 인식을 살펴보았다. 하의교복으로 동복과 하복 모두 '스커트만 착용'이 가장 많았으며, '바지만 착용'은 하복보다 동복에서 높게 나타났다. 스커트를 착용하는 이유는 동복과 하복 모두 '다수의 친구들이 스커트를 입어서'가 가장 많았고, 하복의 경우 '바지교복이 없어서'가 그 다음으로 높게 나타났다. 바지교복은 동복은 '온도변화에 대처할 수 있어서', 하복은 '활동이 편리해서' 주로 입는 것으로 나타났다. 바지교복 착용에 대해서는 대체로 만족하고 있었다. 그러나 바지교복 디자인과 색상에 대해서는 만족하지 못하였으며, '바지통이 좁은 스타일'과 '스트레이트 스타일'의 디자인을 선호하고, 색상은 동복과 하복 모두 검정색, 다음으로 베이지와 청색계열을 선호하였다. 여학생들은 바지교복의 필요성에 대해 전체적으로 낮게 인식하고 있었다. 동복과 하복 모두 바지를 착용하는 집단은 필요성을 높게, 스커트만 착용하는 집단은 낮게 인식하였다. 바지교복은 추위에 견디기 좋으며 활동하기에 편하지만 외모를 돋보이게 하거나 개성을 잘 표현할 수 있지 않다고 인식하였다. 바지를 착용하는 집단은 스커트만 착용하는 집단보다 바지교복이 옷차림에 신경을 떨 쓰게 하고, 방과 후에 입고 다니기 좋다고 하였다. 바지교복에 대한 개선방안으로 디자인과 색상의 개선, 기능성의 증가, 홍보의 필요성 등이 나타났다.