• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.166-173
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• 2014

This study analyzed visual-perceptual centrality as a measure to solve the confusion that might occur in visitor's movement in analyzing contemporary museums that have recently expand. Also, this study proposed a new methodology to understand the relationships of the occurrence and convergence of visual-perceptual power. The existing visibility graph analysis mostly ends up in identifying nodes corresponding to the physical environment of museums while the newly proposed visibility graph analysis is a methodology that can analyze the landmark on which the visual-perceptual power occurs and converges, by setting visible space elements as analysis variables, which showed a possibility to draw more reliable results in parallel to the existing analysis, and the results of this analysis are as follows. A public museum located in downtown has a limitation that it cannot but be multi-layered as a way to enlarge for the accommodation of a variety of programs on a limited site. Also, this study found that the problem of visitor orientation occurring in the multi-layer process was solved by a major space which was visual-perceptually void. Also, its types can be summarized into two types: One is setting parameter spaces (ramps, staircases, hallways) linked visual-perceptually to the major space and the other is solving the confusion of the visitor's movement by composing a simple exhibition space. In particular, it is judged that the type solving the confusion of the visitor's movement by composing a simple exhibition space also had a relationship with changes in the characteristics of the exhibited works by period. In addition, it was found that the entrance also appeared in two types: dependent type and independent type in the major space according to the characteristics of the major space.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2009

This thesis analyzed arrangement and mixture method of function elements, which are getting more important in museum planning. It used quantitative method, Space Syntax and Visibility Graph Analysis tool to analyze five case museums. Through this analysis, advantages and disadvantages of two methods were derived and case museums' arrangement and mixture attributes were grasped. Results of the analysis were derived differently by two kinds of plan form which were room to room type and open type. Open typed museum recorded similar graphs of Integration, Visual Integration and Visual Connectivity. Since whole space structures were relatively simple and structure of exhibition halls were opened, the results of Space Syntax and Visibility Graph Analysis had similar graphs. Room to room typed museum showed differences in Integration, Visual Integration and Visual Connectivity. In the result, the most accessible space was lobby and Mediation Space became the center of visibility. Also, the exhibition hall, where the opening of room to room typed exhibition hall was penetrated visually, became a center of visibility. Lobby space, which was close to entrance, had the highest Visibility Connectivity. As Space Syntax could analyze the museum as whole space structure, Space Syntax showed strength in room to room typed museum analysis compared to open typed museum analysis which has relatively simple structure. Visibility Graph Analysis could expect the flow of exhibit distance including visibility analysis unlike the flow of exhibit distance with space arrangement. The exhibition hall, which secures the sight to penetration of an opening, couldn't be analyzed in existing Space Syntax. However, it became the biggest advantages in Visibility Graph Analysis of room to room typed museum. Visibility Graph Analysis derived detailed results in exhibit arrangement so it will be the useful method not only for architecture but also for planning of exhibit arrangement in open typed museum. Through this study, various possibilities on Quantitative Analysis Method of Museum Architecture could be verified. However, the analysis still has limitation of second dimension. Therefore, diverse and liberal following study will be expected to accomplish.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.189-196
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to make a comparative analyzation toward abstracted emotional properties appeared in the museum exhibition spaces designed by the three masters of the modern architecture;Frank Lloyd Wright, Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe. In addition, this study will also aim to inquire into how the emotional properties have affected the third generation architects. It is especially expected that the 'emotional tendency' emerging in various fields of the present time can serve as useful information through the analysis of emotional design properties appeared in the exhibition space which is directly linked with the human lives. In order to achieve the purpose of the study, in New York by Wright, in Tokyo by Le Corbusier and in Berlin by Mies Van der Rohe were selected. As for the analyzation methodology to be adopted for deriving the aiming points at the emotional design, five criteria of analyzation have been established in order to understand the properties of the emotional area: they are (1) spatial affordance, (2) human congeniality, (3) emotional factors of the area, (4) constitution of the area and (5) expressive division of the area. Using these criteria, this study will reveal what are some of the emotional characteristics shown in each museums and its analytical result will be useful to apply to future museum design. It is especially expected that the 'emotional tendency' emerging in various fields of the present time can serve as useful information through the analysis of emotional design properties appeared in the exhibition space of design which is directly linked with the human behavior.

• 예술경영연구
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• 제54호
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• pp.133-153
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• 2020

2019ICOM교토에서 새로운 박물관 정의의 채택 투표가 진행되었다. 문화적 담론으로의 새로운 박물관과 관련한 논의가 이루어지고 있었던 것에 힘입어 ICOM은 2015년 실무위원 구성을 중심으로 MDPP를 창설하고 새로운 박물관 정의를 제안했다. 본 연구는 박물관경영 차원에서 정의의 결정을 앞두고 논의 전개와 쟁점을 살펴보아 공론화하고자 하였다. 박물관 정의는 제트 샌달의 주도로 제안되었으며, 정의 채택에 대한 찬반 의견을 통해 각 국가들의 박물관 경영 전략이 의사결정에 전제되었음을 살펴보았다. 새로운 정의를 받아들일 충분한 논의와 준비의 필요 또한 확인하였다. 연구는 새로운 정의가 채택되면 대응차원에서 박물관이 직면하게 될 경영상 문제를 살펴보았다. 박물관 경영 비전과, 실행, 콘텐츠, 타겟 등의 경영 요소를 분류하고, 발생할 문제들을 예측하였다. 또한 뒤따를 제도적 법적 변화와, 예측을 통해 대비의 필요성을 제기하였다. 본 연구는 오늘날 박물관이 나아가고자 하는 방향성을 이해하고, 대응하기 위한 논의의 시발점으로 그 의미가 있다.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제4호
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• pp.33-56
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• 2006

'문화 전쟁(Culture Wars)'은 1980년대 말부터 1990년대 초 미국에서 보수주의자와 진보주의자 사이에 벌어진 문화적 논쟁을 일컫는다. 이 용어는 제임스 헌터(James Hunter)의 책 "문화 전쟁: 미국을 정의하려는 노력(Culture Wars: The Struggle to Define America)"의 출간으로 대중화되었고, 당시 공화당 대통령 후보였던 패트릭 부캐넌(Patrick Buchanan)에 의해 급부상하게 된다. 그는 "이 나라에는 지금 종교 전쟁, 즉 냉전만큼 중요한 '문화 전쟁'이 일어나고 있고, 이것은 미국의 영혼을 위한 전쟁이다." 라고 부르짖으며 급변하는 문화 정체성의 위기 속에서 미국적인 전통을 지키고자 하였다. 이 문화 전쟁은 여러 다양한 논쟁을 함의하고 있었는데, 교목제도의 폐지, 교육기관에서의 다문화주의(multiculturalism) 커리큘럼 도입, 동성애자의 군복무, 낙태, 총기 소지 등의 허용 문제로 당시 미국의 교육계, 문화계뿐만 아니라 정치계, 입법부에서도 첨예한 대립 구도를 형성하였다. 미술계에서 가장 치열했던 문화 전쟁은 안드레 세라노(Andres Serrano)의 작품전과 ${\ll}$로버트 메플소프: 완벽한 순간(Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Moment)전${\gg}$이 공공기금인 국립예술진흥기금(National Endowments for the Arts, NEA)의 지원을 받아 개최되는 것이 타당한 것이냐에 대한 논쟁에서 표출되었다. 이 두 전시를 기점으로 그 뒤로도 여러 미술 전시회와 음악회, 연극 등을 둘러싼 NEA 기금 지원과 관련한 분쟁은 한동안 계속된다. 이 글은 이러한 미술계 문화 전쟁의 발전 과정과 몇몇 논점에 초점을 맞추되, 세라노나 메플소프의 작품 자체를 분석하고 비평하는 글이 아님을 밝혀 둔다. 본 연구는 분쟁의 전개에 대한 상세한 기술적, 연대기적 조사보다는 그 발단과 전개 과정에서 몇 가지 핵심적인 사항들을 기술하고, 이 사항들이 암시하는 정치적, 미학적, 미술사적 시각의 충돌에 대해 지적하는 글이 될 것이다. 더 나아가 당시 이러한 논쟁이 미국 미술계에 의미하던 것, 미국 문화 전체에 의미하던 것은 과연 무엇인가에 대한 비평적 질문으로 글을 맺고자 한다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제3권
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• pp.71-78
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• 2001

박물관 진열장의 기밀성은 일반적으로 CO₂ 추적가스를 이용한 밀폐도를 측정함으로서 조사되어 왔지만 진열장 내부에 구멍을 내야하는 점은 사용전이나 사용 중인 진열장에 대한 밀폐도 측정에 적용하는데 문제점으로 지적되어 왔다. 이에 진열장의 형상을 변화시키지 않고, 진열장의 밀폐도를 간접측정함으로서 사용전이나 필요에 따라서는 전시중인 진열장에 대한 밀폐도를 측정할 수 있는 대안을 제시하고자 하였다. 밀폐도는 간접측정법은 진열장 내부의 온습도변화와 습도조절제(Art-sorb)의 중량변화를 통해 진열장의 기밀도를 간접적으로 알아보는 방법이다. 실험은 동일장소에 시공된 3개의 벽부형진열장을 대상으로 진열장내 조명을 켜지 않고 Art-sorb와 온습도 수집기를 넣고 12일간 진행하였다. 각 진열장내 온도와 습도 변동분을 주변변동분으로 나눠 변동율로 나타냈으며, 그 결과 온도 변동율에서는 벽부장A(0.67)가 벽부장B(0.69)나 벽부장C(0.79)보다 변동율이 적었으며 습도 변동율에서도 벽부장A(0.12)가 벽부장B(0.19)나 벽부장C(0.72)보다 변동율이 적어 기밀도가 가장 양호함을 알 수 있었다. 또한 CO₂추적가스를 이용한 직접 밀폐도 측정에서의 공기교환율에 대하여 간접 밀폐도 측정에서의 습도변동율을 대입해 보았다.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제14호
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• pp.125-158
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• 2012

After liberation from Japanese colonial rule in 1945, there was the three-year period of United States Army Military Government in Korea. In 1948, Democratic People's Republic of Korea, and Republic of Korea were established in the north and south of the Korean Peninsula. The Republic of Korea is now a modern state set in the southern part of the Korean. We usually refer to Koreans as people who belong to the Republic of Korea. Can we say that is true exactly? Why make of this an obsolete question? The period from 1945 when Korea was emancipated from Japanese colonial rule to 1948 when the Republic of Korea was established has not been a focus of modern Korean history. This three years remains empty in Korean history and makes the concept of 'Korean' we usually consider ambiguous, and prompts careful attention to the silence of 'some Koreans' forced to live against their will in the blurred boundaries between nation and people. This dissertation regards 'Koreans' who came to live in the border of nations, especially 'Korean-Japanese third generation women artists'who are marginalized both Japan and Korea. It questions the category of 'Korean women's art' that has so far been considered, based on the concept of territory, and presents a new perspective for viewing 'Korean women's art'. Almost no study on Korean-Japanese women's art has been conducted, based on research on Korean diaspora, and no systematic historical records exist. Even data-collection is limited due to the political situation of South and North in confrontation. Representation of the Mother Country on the Artworks by First and Second-Generation Korean-Japanese(Zainich) Women Artists after Liberation since 1945 was published in 2011 is the only dissertation in which Korean-Japanese women artists, and early artistic activities. That research is based on press releases and interviews obtained through Japan. This thesis concentrates on the world of Korean-Japanese third generation women artists such as Kim Jung-sook, Kim Ae-soon, and Han Sung-nam, permanent residents in Japan who still have Korean nationality. The three Korean-Japanese third generation women artists whose art world is reviewed in this thesis would like to reveal their voices as minorities in Japan and Korea, resisting power and the universal concepts of nation, people and identity. Questioning the general notions of 'Korean women' and 'Korean women's art'considered within the Korean Peninsula, they explore their identity as Korean women outside the Korean territory from a post-territorial perspective and have a new understanding of the minority's diversity and difference through their eyes as marginal women living outside the mainstream of Korean and Japanese society. This is associated with recent post-colonial critical viewpoints reconsidering myths of universalism and transcendental aesthetic measures. In the 1980s and 1990s art museums and galleries in New York tried a critical shift in aesthetic discourse on contemporary art history, analyzed how power relationships among such elements as gender, sexuality, race, nationalism. Ghost of Ethnicity: Rethinking Art Discourses of the 1940s and 1980s by Lisa Bloom is an obvious presentation about the post-colonial discourse. Lisa Bloom rethinks the diversity of race, ethnicity, sexuality, and gender each artist and critic has, she began a new discussion on artists who were anti-establishment artists alienated by mainstream society. As migration rapidly increased through globalism lead by the United States the aspects of diaspora experience emerges as critical issues in interpreting contemporary culture. As a new concept of art with hybrid cultural backgrounds exists, each artist's cultural identity and specificity should be viewed and interpreted in a sociopolitical context. A criticism started considering the distinct characteristics of each individual's historical experience and cultural identity, and paying attention to experience of the third world artist, especially women artists, confronting the power of modernist discourses from a perspective of the white male subject. Considering recent international contemporary art, the Korean-Japanese third generation women artists who clarify their cultural identity as minority living in the border between Korea and Japan may present a new direction for contemporary Korean art. Their art world derives from their diaspora experience on colonial trauma historically. Their works made us to see that it is also associated with postcolonial critical perspective in the recent contemporary art stream. And it reminds us of rethinking the diversity of the minority living outside mainstream society. Thus, this should be considered as one of the features in the context of Korean women's art.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제13호
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• pp.73-95
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• 2012

In terms of element and process, art today has already been fully systemized, yet tends to become even more systemized. All phases of creation and exhibition, appreciation and education, promotion and marketing are planned, adjusted, and decided within the order of a globalized, networked system. Each phase is executed, depending on the system of management and control and diverse means corresponding to the system. From the step of education, artists are guided to determine their styles and not be motivated by their desire to become star artists or running counter to mainstream tendency and fashion. In the process of planning an exhibition, the level of artist awareness is considered more significant than work quality. It is impossible to avoid such systems and institutions today. No one can escape or be freed from the influence of such system. This discussion addresses a serious distortion in the selection system as part of the system connotatively called "art museum system," especially to evaluate artistic achievement and aesthetic quality. Called "studio system" or "art star system," the system distinguishes successful minority from failed absolute majority and justifies the results, deciding discriminative compensations. The discussion begins from work by Hunter Jonakin and Dan Perjovschi. The key point of this discussion is not their art worlds but the shared truth referred by the two as the collusive "art market" and "art star system." Through works based on their experiences, the two artists refer to these systems which restrict and confine them. Jonakin's Jeff Koons Must Die! is avideo game conveying a critical comment on authoritative operation of the museum system and star system. In this work, participants, whether viewer or artist, are destined to lose: the game is unwinnable. Players take the role of a person locked in a museum where artist Jeff Koons' retrospective is held. The player can either look around and quietly observe the works, which causes a game-over, or he can blow the classical paintings to pieces and cause the artist Koons to come out and reprimand the player, also resulting in a game-over. Like Jonakin, Dan Perjovschi's some drawings also focuses on the status of the artist shrunken by the system. Most artists are ruined in a process of competition to survive within the museum system. As John Burger properly pointed out, out of the art systems today, public collections (art museums) and private collections have become "something unbearable." The system justifies the selection system of art stars and its frame of reference, disregarding the problem of producing numerable victims in its process. What should be underlined above all else is that the present selection system seriously shrinks art's creative function and its function of generating meaning. In this situation, art might fall to the level of entertainment, accessible to more people and compromising with popularity. This discussion is based on assumption and consciousness on the matter that this situation might cause catastrophic results for not only explicit victims of the system but also winners, or ones defined as winners. The system of art is probably possible only by desire or distortion stemmed from such desire. The system can be flourished only under the economic system of avarice: quantitatively expanding economy, abundant style, resort economy in Venice and Miami, and luxurious shopping malls with up-to-date facilities. The catastrophe here is ongoing, not a sudden emergence, and dynamic, leading the system itself to a devastating end.