• International Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 2012

This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제29권1호
• /
• pp.16-27
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to identify the structure and characteristics for the reproduction of the armor in the Unified Silla period, and then reproduce and utilize it as a cultural content. In the armor reproduction project excavated from Jaemaejeong, Gyeongju. Jaemaejeong armor is consisting of Singap (身甲, body armor), Sanggap (裳甲, hip armor), and Sangbakgap (上膊甲, upper arm armor) at the time of excavation. Unlike the armor of the Three Kingdoms period, Singap and Sanggap are separated. Singap is Yangdangsik (裲襠式, side opening method) and Gyunggap (頸甲, gorget) was not unearthed, Sangbakgap was divided into a part that protects the left and right upper arms and a part that protects the chest, so that the unexcavated head and neck cover of the helmet can be protected to the shoulder. In addition, in the case of Chalgap (札甲, lamellar armor), the Oejungsik (外重式, folded from outside to inside) is mainly used, but it is peculiar that Naejungsik (內重式, folded from inside to outside) is used in Sangbakgap of Jaemaejeong armor. It is presumed that this was used as a method to ensure that the armor were closely attached to the human body. In order to design with the parade armor of Gochwidae in Gyeongju based on the reproduced Jaemaejeong armor, the designer's imagination and historical work of the times were involved due to the characteristics of performance costumes. Reproduced armor as a cultural content should be considered indispensable to simplify and lighten clothing suitable for performances based on the excavated historical armor.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2007

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제54권2호
• /
• pp.78-97
• /
• 2021

1795년 윤2월 12일 서장대에서 행해진 군사훈련을 그린 <서장대야조도(西將臺夜操圖)>를 중심으로 관직자의 유형별 복식과 유형별 복식의 구성에 따른 특징을 고찰하였으며 고증 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 서장대 안팎에서 왕 가까이에 위치한 관직자는 모두 34명인데 당상관 27명, 당하관 7명이었다. 34명 관직자의 복식 유형은 모두 3종으로 갑주·융복·군복으로 분류되었는데 그 중 갑주 착용자 12명은 모두 당상관이었고, 융복 착용자 5명은 당상관이었으며, 군복 착용자는 당상관 11명과 당하관 6명이었다. 둘째, 갑주의 형태 고증은 말 타기에 적합한 여반 장군의 갑옷 유물과 『무예도보통지』의 갑주 그림을 참조하고, 착용의 실용성을 고려하여 갑옷의 구성품을 정하였다. 갑주의 구성품은 투구, 갑의, 갑상, 호항, 호액, 비갑에 골미를 추가하였다. 갑주 색상은 <서장대야조도> 갑주에서 가장 표현 빈도가 높은 홍색과 녹색으로 고증하였다. 셋째, 당상 융복의 구성은 호수를 장식한 주립, 남색 철릭, 홍색 광다회, 정, 수화자로 고증하였다. 넷째, 군복 구성은 안을 올린 전립, 동다리, 전복, 요대, 전대, 수화자로 고증하였다. 군복에서 당상과 당하의 직물차이는 문양의 유무에 있었는데 당상관은 운보문 직물을, 당하관은 문양이 없는 직물을 사용하였다. 그리고 당상관은 장식품의 세부 재료에서 옥과 금, 은을 사용하였다. 그 외에 무기는 시복, 환도, 등편, 비구와 깍지 등을 갖추었다. 정조대 기록에는 다양한 색의 협수가 보이므로 당상관과 당하관의 동다리와 전복 색상은 다양한 배색으로 고증하였다. 이상의 고증 결과를 반영하여 콘텐츠 제작을 위한 복식의 시각화 자료로 제시하였다. <서장대야조도> 관직자 복식의 고증 결과를 반영한 시각화의 기본 원칙에서 3D 콘텐츠 제작이나 실물 제작이 가능한 기준을 제시하였다. 시대와 신분에 따른 형태·색상·재질의 견본, 각 복식과 지물을 패용한 앞·옆·뒤 모습을 제시하고 색상은 RGB와 CMYK로 제시하였다.