• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.750-763
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• 2013

This research suggests pattern design methods for motion through an evaluation of the appearance and motion of three existing kinds of original patterns (K type, N type, and L type) and modified patterns designed by the researcher. The results of the study are as follows. First, the evaluation of appearances showed that the modified patterns of a standing posture received a higher evaluation compared to the original patterns only in N type and in a sitting posture. In addition, the degree of lowering or a natural feel by the pulling of the slacks waist belt in a sitting posture received a higher evaluation than the original patterns. Second, the evaluation of motions showed that modified patterns received a higher evaluation than the original patterns in almost all items. Per each pattern, it showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort as the whole in N type in crouching motions. The L type showed low scores as a whole (both in original patterns and modified patterns) and the K type showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort of the crista iliaca and groin region in the motion of walking at a normal walking pace, ascending stairs and bending the waist 90 degree to the front. Third, the measuring distance the between back waist point of the body and the back waist point of original patterns and modified patterns during motions showed that the modified patterns of all three patterns (N type, L type, and K type) showed less lowering compared to the original forms in the whole pattern as well as individual patterns. The design method of back waist point developed in this research can be regarded as a design method appropriate for motions.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.581-594
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.

• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.208-225
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify trends in modern Korean clothing design through investigation and analysis of the types and respective characteristics of silhouettes, colors, materials, patterns, and decorations present. To this end, research methods such as literature research and content analysis through case study research were used. The results of the wedding magazine data analysis were largely classified by design element and based on such, the conclusions are as follows. First, in the analysis of silhouettes, the appearance rate of traditional items decreased over the selected period and that of modified items increased. Second, among the same colors, adjacent colors, proximity complementary colors, contrast, and other harmonies, adjacent color harmonies showed the highest rate of appearance. Third, the cases where the same materials were used for the top and bottom elements showed a similar appearance rate as those where different materials were used. It was also concluded that traditional materials are being replaced by modern materials. Fourth, regarding the arrangement of patterns, the appearance rate of the absence of patterns gradually increases. Fifth, there were more case of decorations than those of none. This study made it possible to grasp the changes in trends of modern Korean clothing from 2011 to 2020 and provide basic data for the development of the Korean clothing market industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.