• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.701-705
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• 2014

본 연구에서는 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기, 열매 및 잎으로부터 유효성분을 열수 추출하고 다양한 화장품 소재 시험을 실시하여 화장품 소재로서의 개발 가능성을 검토하였다. 세포독성시험에서 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기 그리고 열매 추출물은 독성을 나타내지 않았지만 잎 추출물은 $200{\mu}g/ml$ 이상의 농도에서 다소의 독성을 나타내었다. 꾸지뽕나무 뿌리추출물은 $500{\mu}g/ml$의 농도에서 81%의 tyrosinase 억제효과(미백효과)와 58%의 elastase 억제효과(주름개선효과)를 나타내었고, UVB 자외선 흡수능도 다소 보여주었다. 21일간의 온도 안정성 시험 결과, 꾸지뽕 뿌리 추출물을 포함한 액제와 로션제형은 $25^{\circ}C$에서는 안정하였으나 $47^{\circ}C$에서 점도와 입자크기가 불안정하였다. 본 연구 결과 꾸지뽕 뿌리추출물은 높은 폴리페놀 및 플라보노이드의 함량, 우수한 미백 및 주름개선 효과를 나타내어 천연 기능성 화장품 소재로서 높은 가능성을 보여주었다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.79-104
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• 2003

Introducing to the market place, safe and effective product is an important responsibility of clinical investigators as well as regulatory agencies in all developed countries. Products claiming to improve skin wrinkles are no exceptions. To date, Renova(R) (all-trans retinoic acid), Avage(R) (tazarotene), and Botox(R) (botulinum toxin) are the only agents FDA approved to ameliorate wrinkles associated with photoaged skin in the USA. For all three, clinical evaluation of wrinkle severity was the primary endpoint required for the approval process. No sophisticated instrument measurements of wrinkles were required, nor used in the pivotal studies. The Division of Dermatologic & Dental Products of the US FDA (Director, Jonathan Wilkin, MD) is not against the use of mechanical instruments in assessing wrinkle severity. Its position on this issue however, remains that any such device must be grounded in patients' or product users' perspective, which means that the evaluation instrument must be clinically relevant and clinically perceptible. Sophisticated devices that can detect minimal improvement, but imperceptible to the users are considered useless in the eyes of the US FDA. Two instruments that have been tried in some antiwrinkle studies in the USA are silicone replicas and Primos. Despite their sophistications, they have clear limitations; thus have never replaced clinical evaluations in these studies. At most, they have served as secondary measures to provide corroborative data on the clinical efficacy of antiwrinkle products. For the foreseeable future, at least in the USA, careful clinical assessment of wrinkles will continue to serve as the critical benchmark to determine whether an antiwrinkle product has enough efficacy to benefit its users. We must not lose sight of the fact that sophisticated devices are only to serve in generating supportive evidence, and not the primary evidence, in any clinical studies.

• 생약학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.349-353
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• 2007

Skin wrinkle formations are associated with collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-I(MMP-1) activity. This study was carried out to find out skin wrinkle reducing components in Torilis Fructus. Torilis Fructus were extracted with 70% ethanol and the ethanol extracts were systematically fractionated with n-hexane, ethylacetate, n-butanol and distilled water. Among them, antiwrinkle component from n-hexane fraction was purified by several column chromatographies and HPLC, which identified as torilin by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$ and ESI-MS. To determine cell viability, collagen biosynthesis and MMP-1 activity, human dermal fibroblast was treated with 1-5 ppm concentrations of Torilis Fructus extract fraction and torilin. Cell viability was showed 84-102% at all group treated with 1-5 ppm. Collagen synthesis was increased in all group, especially torilin-treated group was highest amount. Active forms of MMP-1 were decreased in all group. From these results, we consider that Torilis Fructus have several antiwrinkle components and torilin may be one of the effective components.

• 대한한방부인과학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.13-32
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• 2011

Objectives: This study was performed to elucidate the effects of Danchisoyo-san (DS) on cell damage and gene expression in UVB-exposed dermal fibroblast. Methods: To demonstrate the inhibitory effects of DS on aging of the skin, we used human dermal fibroblast(F6) and UVB light(30 mJ/$cm^2$) was used to damage to dermal fibroblast. We measured the nitrite production, LDH release, and gene expression in UVB-irradiated dermal fibroblast to elucidate the actionmechanism of DS. Also, we evaluated the amount of increased PICP, TIMP-1 in dermal fibroblast. PICP, TIMP-1 concentration was measured using EIA kit, and gene expression (MMP-1, procollagen, c-fos, c-jun, NF-kB, Bcl-2, Bcl-xL, iNOS) were determined using real-time PCR. Results: 1. DS inhibited LDH-release, nitrite production in UVB-irradiated dermal fibroblast. 2. DS suppressed the gene expression of MMP-1 in UVB-irradiated dermal fibroblast. 3. DS increased the gene expression of procollagen in UVB-iradiated dermal fibroblast. 4. DS suppressed the gene expression of c-jun, c-fos, NF-kB, iNOS in UVBirradiated dermal fibroblast. 5. DS increased the gene expression of Bcl-2 in UVB-iradiated dermal fibroblast. 6. DS increased the cell proliferation of dermal fibroblast. Conclusions: From the results, we concluded DS increases the cell proliferation and collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblast. So we suggest that DS has the antiwrinkle effects.

• 한국해양바이오학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.9-24
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• 2022

Low-molecular weight peptides derived from fish collagen exhibit several bioactivities, including antioxidant, antiwrinkle, antimicrobial, antidiabetic, and antihypertension effects. These peptides are also involved in triglyceride suppression and memory improvement. This study aimed to investigate the optimal processing condition for preparing low-molecular weight peptides from flounder skin, and the properties of the hydrolysate. The optimal processing conditions for peptic hydrolysis were as follows: a ratio of pepsin to dried skin powder of 2% (w/w), pH of 2.0, and a temperature of 50℃. Peptic hydrolysate contains several low-molecular weight peptides below 300 Da. Gly-Pro-Hyp(GPHyp) peptide, a process control index, was detected only in peptic hydrolysate on matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization-time-of-flight(MALDI-TOF) spectrum. 2,2'-azinobis-(3-3-ethylbenzothiazolline-6- sulfonic acid(ABTS) radical scavenging activity of the peptic hydrolysate was comparable to that of 1 mM ascorbic acid, which was used as a positive control at pH 5.5, whereas collagenase inhibition was five times higher with the peptic hydrolysate than with 1 mM ascorbic acid at pH 7.5. However, the tyrosinase inhibition ability of the peptic hydrolysate was lower than that of arbutin, which was used as a positive control. The antibacterial effect of the peptic hydrolysate against Propionibacterium acne was not observed. These results suggest that the peptic hydrolysate derived from a flounder skin is a promising antiwrinkle agent that can be used in various food and cosmetic products to prevent wrinkles caused by ultraviolet radiations.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.309-314
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• 2018

본 연구에서는 괭이밥, 큰괭이밥, 덩이괭이밥 메탄올 추출물의 기능성화장품소재로서의 가능성을 검토하였다. 소재 시험으로 세포독성 시험, 폴리페놀 함량 측정, 항산화 효과 시험, 주름개선 효과 시험 및 미백 효과 시험을 실시하였다. 세포독성 시험 결과 $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ 농도 까지 괭이밥 추출물은 세포독성이 거의 없었다. 괭이밥, 큰괭이밥, 덩이괭이밥 메탄올 추출물은 유효성분으로 폴리페놀의 함량이 각각 $116.036{\pm}0.37mg/g$, $54.72{\pm}0.52mg/g$, $88.18{\pm}1.15mg/g$로 높은 농도를 나타내었다. DPPH 자유 라디칼 소거 시험을 이용한 항산화 효과 시험결과, $1,000{\mu}g/mL$의 농도에서 괭이밥, 큰괭이밥, 덩이괭이밥 메탄올 추출물은 89%, 80%, 88%의 매우 우수한 항산화 효과를 보였다. Elastase 억제 효과 시험을 이용한 주름개선 효과는 $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ 농도에서 괭이밥 81%, 큰괭이밥 51%, 덩이괭이밥 57%를 보였으며, 특히 괭이밥 추출물의 주름개선 효과가 매우 우수하였다. Tyrosinase 억제 시험을 이용한 미백효과는 비교적 낮았다. 괭이밥 추출물 1%를 함유한 로션제의 온도 안정성 시험결과, 큰괭이밥 추출물의 경우 28일 동안 pH, 점도, 외관의 변화가 안정적이고 큰 변화가 없었음을 확인하였으나, 괭이밥 추출물과 덩이괭이밥 추출물의 경우 제형의 개선이 필요하였다. 본 연구로부터 괭이밥 메탄올 추출물은 항산화 효과와 주름개선 효과가 우수하여 주름개선 기능성화장품소재로서 높은 가능성을 보였다.

• 한국식품영양과학회지
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• 제37권9호
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• pp.1136-1141
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• 2008

무모쥐의 등에 애엽 추출물과 아스코르브산 함유 스킨로션을 도포하고 자외선을 조사하여 애엽 추출물과 아스코르브산의 주름 개선 효과를 알아보았다. 애엽 추출물 도포군의 피부조직 두께는 대조군에 비해 $12.5{\sim}21.4%$의 유의적인 감소 효과를 보였다. 표면 거칠기 측정기에 의한 피부 주름의 형성 정도를 측정하는 지표인 Ra값은 ME-1.0, ME-2.0과 ME-5.0 도포군에서 $23.7{\sim}31.1%$로 유의적으로 감소하였고 (p<0.01), Rq치는 ME-1.0, ME-2.0와 ME-5.0에서 $11.2{\sim}21.2%$, Rz의 측정치에서는 ME-1.0(19.8%), ME-2.0(22.1%), ME-5.0(24.5%) 그룹에서 대조군에 비해 크게 감소하였다. Rt치는 ME-1.0, ME-2.0와 ME-5.0 그룹에서 농도 증가에 따라 14.2%에서 22.7%의 유의적인 감소효과가 있었다. 아스코르브산 도포그룹은 애엽과 비슷한 감소효과를 보여주었지만, 애엽의 주름 개선효과에는 미치지 못하였다. MMP-1 활성은 애엽 메탄올 추출물 그룹에서 $19.3%{\sim}22.6%$까지 감소하였고, 콜라겐의 생성은 ME-2.0과 ME-5.0그룹에서 10% 정도의 유의적인 증가 효과가 있었다. 이처럼 애엽 메탄올 추출물은 피부의 광손상에 대한 피부 보호 및 피부의 주름 개선효과가 탁월하고, 또한 강력한 항산화제인 아스코르브산보다 그 효과가 우수하여 피부노화 현상과 주름 개선을 위한 기능성 화장품 소재로 이용가치가 있을 것으로 여겨진다.

• 생명과학회지
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• 제23권10호
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• pp.1239-1245
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• 2013

청미래덩굴 추출물의 주름개선 효과를 확인하기 위해 elastase 저해활성을 측정한 결과 청미래덩굴 에탄올 추출물과 열수 추출물이 $1,000{\mu}g/ml$에서 각각 41.1%, 16.3%의 활성을 나타내었으며, collagenase 저해활성 측정결과 청미래덩굴 에탄올 추출물과 열수 추출물이 $1,000{\mu}g/ml$에서 각각 96.6%, 60.0%의 활성을 나타내었다. 청미래덩굴의 에탄올 추출물의 세포생존율을 확인하기 위하여 섬유아세포(CCD-986sk)로 MTT assay에 의해 확인한 결과 $50{\mu}g/ml$ 농도에서 71.7%의 세포 생존율을 확인할 수 있었다. 섬유아 세포에서 청미래덩굴 에탄올 추출물의 pro-collagen type-1 생합성량을 확인한 결과 $50{\mu}g/ml$의 농도에서 139% 이상의 우수한 효과를 나타내었으며, MMP-1 저해활성을 측정한 결과 $50{\mu}g/ml$의 각각의 농도에서 74.9%의 활성을 나타내었다. 청미래덩굴 에탄올 추출물을 처리한 섬유아 세포에서 MMP family 중 MMP-1의 단백질 발현 및 mRNA 발현 억제 효과를 확인한 결과 MMP-1 단백질 발현과 mRNA 발현 모두 $50{\mu}g/ml$에서 각각 35%, 45%의 저해율을 나타내었다. 이러한 결과로 미루어 보아 청미래덩굴 에탄올 추출물이 주름개선용 화장품 소재로 응용이 가능할 것으로 판단된다.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book II
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• pp.464-478
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• 2003

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage and aging. The extract of tinged autumnal leaves of maple tree(Acer palmatum) has proven to be a powerful antioxidant. The Acer palmatum extract is very effective on the stabilization of biological membranes( containing unsaturated fatty acid). We studied photoprotective effect of the extract against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes. The extract improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. In the determination test of pro inflammatory cytokines the extract decreased expression of interleukin 1 a and 6, which play an important role in inflammation and skin erythema caused by UV. We also studied property of varying cosmetic formulations on the percutaneous absorption of the extract. After 24 hour in vitro penetration study, the content of the extract was more highly detected in skin residue part. This result showed the extract had relatively high compatibility of skin in our emulsion system. On human skin, after appling the product containing the extract we obtained a good result of antiwrinkle effect by skin visiometer. In conclusion, the Acer palmatum extract is a photoprotective and very effective in stressed and aged skin care. And we can predict the extract mainly affects on the skin cell and tissue in our emulsion system.

• Korean Journal of Acupuncture
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.188-194
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• 2014

Objectives : In this study, we investigated the effect of ethanol extract from Rosa rugosa Thunb. flowers(ERF) on the activities of antioxidant, antiwrinkle and whitening. Methods : We measured antioxidant efficacy of ERF by using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) assay. Also we confirmed the inhibitory effect of ERF on collagenase activity and melanin synthesis by using collagenase assay kit and dihydroxiphenylalanine staining, respectively. To evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of ERF, we examined the inflammatory mediator IL-6. Results : ERF showed highly efficacy in DPPH radical scavenging activity. ERF dose-dependently suppressed collagenase activity. Ultraviolet-induced production of IL-6 decreased by ERF treatment. In B16F10 cell, ERF significantly reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. Conclusions : From the above results, it was indicated that ERF could be utilized as anti-aging and whitening cosmetic ingredients.