• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.165-173
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative and cellular protective effects of Jeju native plant extracts. In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of new 37 plant extracts collected from self-growing plants in Jeju island. Their anti-oxidant activities were measured by the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) radical scavenging assay and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging assay in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system. The cytoprotective properties of 37 plant extracts were assessed in the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect of 37 plant extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The results showed that the extracts of Myrica rubra stem bark and Securinega suffruticosa have the free radical scavenging activity($FSC_{50}:\;5,\;8{\mu}g/mL$, respectively), and the extracts of Quercus acutissima leaf and Securinega suffruticosa stem bark have the prominent ROS scavenging activity($OSC_{50}:\;0.009{\mu}g/mL$). Photohemolysis of erythrocytes in the presence of rose-bengal as a sensitizer was inhibited by the extracts of Securinega suffruticosa stem bark and Salix koreensis stem(${\tau}_{50}$, 895 min, 640 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Myrica rubra stem bark extract(77.8% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) and Salix koreensis stem extract(76.2% at 200 ${\mu}g/mL$) also have the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase activities, respectively. These results indicated that the stem park of Myrica rubra, Securinega suffruticosa, and Camellia japonica, the stem of Salix koreensis, and the leaf of Quercus aqutissima and Camellia japonica could have e benefitial effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.181-187
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• 2012

Ligustrum lucidum (L. lucidum) contains large quantities of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid. In this study, we evaluated anti-wrinkle effects of three parts of L. lucidum extracts. We found that L. lucidum extracts were not only innocuous to human skin fibroblasts but also significantly decreased the expression of both MMP-1 and MMP-2 and increased the expression of COL1A1. Among the three parts of L. lucidum extracts (i.e., fruit, cane, and leaf extracts), the fruit extract was found to contain the greatest amounts of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid. These three parts of L. lucidum extracts increased the expression of COL1A1 and decreased the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-2 in a dose-dependent manner. Especially, the fruit extract of L. lucidum had the greatest upregulating effect on COL1A1 and the greatest downregulating effect on MMP-1 and MMP-2 in a non-toxic and dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that L. lucidum, especially the fruit, could be used as active ingredients for functional cosmetics.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.208-214
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• 2012

Chaff-vinegar is known for having a variety of useful purposes in the fields of health and lifestyles. In a previous study we isolated and identified the active fractions of the polyphenol compound 7 species as a potential biomaterial for cosmeceuticals. To further test for its potential use as a functional material, we carried out an MTT assay, collagenase inhibition assay, elastase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, SOD-like activity assay and a xanthine oxidase inhibition assay. Chaff-vinegar exhibited potent collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities in a concentration dependent manner, indicating that the agent has the potential to alleviate the skin wrinkling process. Chaff-vinegar also showed 80% tyrosinase inhibition at a concentration of $100{\mu}L/mL$. DPPH radical scavenging, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and SOD-like activity results for each activity were 80%, 80%, and 100%, respectively. Taken together, the present study suggests that chaff-vinegar is a good candidate for use as an anti-wrinkling and/or whitening agent.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.393-399
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• 2012

In this study, the antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects of extracts from Aruncus diocius var. kamtschaticus (ADV) were investigated. According to the results, the ethanol extract has better antioxidant and anti-wrinkling effects than the water extract. The amounts of total polyphenol and flavonoid compounds in the ethanol extract were 122 and 36 mg/g, respectively, while those in the water extract were 87 and 26 mg/g. The antioxidant activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 395 and 4,682 ${\mu}g/mL$ as the $RC_{50}$ values for the DPPH radical scavenging activity, and 227 and 366 ${\mu}g/mL$ for the $ABTS^+$ radical scavenging activity, respectively. The reducing power of the ethanol extract (1.58 at 2 mg/mL) was higher than that of the water extract (0.88 at 2 mg/mL). The astringent activities of the ethanol and water extracts were 91.27 and 16.35% at 10 mg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, the ADV ethanol extract treatment of the fibroblast cell after UV irradiation resulted in increased cell viability (10% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$) and collagen biosynthesis (33% at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$), with a lowering in the MMP-1 expression level (16.8 % at 100 ${\mu}g/mL$). These results demonstrate that AVD provides a remarkable and significant tensor and anti-wrinkling effect on the skin, which could be of a great use in anti-aging skin care products.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.196-202
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• 2007

Skin wrinkles are associated with collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) activity. This study was carried out to select optimum ratio of 3 herbs in skin health food for anti-wrinkle. Human dermal fibroblast cell was incubated with experimental samples, which were Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts (ER), Torilis fructus water extracts (WT), Corni fructus water extracts (WC) and their mixtures (WM1, WM3). And then we determined effects on collagen biosynthesis, MMP-1 activity and SOD activity in human dermal fibroblast cell. In control group, collagen biosynthesis was amounted at 474.8 ng/ml and 533.9 ng/ml, 539.3 ng/ml, 514.1 ng/ml in ER, WT and WC respectively. Furthermore, WM3 (KTNG0345) was increased to 561.45 ng/ml. MMP-1 activity of ER, WT, WC, WM1 were determined to 31.9 ng/ml, 32.85 ng/ml, 32.0 ng/ml, 31.3 ng/ml and WM3 (KTNG0345) was decreased to 28.85 ng/ml. In addition, the experimental samples showed a antioxidative activities. From this results, we conclude that Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts, Torilis fructus water extracts, Corni fructus water extracts and their mixtures have a anti-wrinkle effect and WM3 (KTNG0345) may be regarded as an optimum composition for synergic effect producing. The standardized components of KTNG0345, ginsenoside-$Rb_1$, torilin and loganin were identified at 10.85 mg/g, 0.128 mg/g and 3.92 mg/g respectively.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.93-99
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• 2017

Collagen synthesis is decreased and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels are increased in naturally aged human skin, and these alterations cause changes such as skin wrinkling and decreased elasticity. As a part of our ongoing search for bioactive ingredients, MMP-1 inhibitory and type-1 procollagen synthesis inducing activities of aqueous methanolic extract of manufactured gambir product from Uncaria gambir were investigated in in vitro bioassay systems. In addition, total phenolic contents were quantified using a spectrophotometric method. Among tested samples, 40% MeOH eluate from 80% methanolic extract of manufactured U. gambir using open column chromatography packed with Diaion HP-20 resin showed significant MMP-1 inhibitory activities with an $IC_{50}$ value of $15.6{\pm}1.3{\mu}g/mL$. Furthermore, type-1 procollagen synthesis promoting property of 40% MeOH eluate ($IC_{50}$ value; $6.9{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$) from 80% methanolic extract of manufactured gambir was higher than other eluates. Additionally, the present investigation revealed that 40% MeOH eluate of manufactured gambir product contained a high level of total phenolic compounds. The result suggests a distinct relationship between anti-wrinkle activity and total phenolic contents, and manufactured gambir product could be considered a new effective source of natural bioactive ingredients. Systematic investigation of manufactured gambir product will be performed for further development of its biological properties.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.436-442
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• 2008

Hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide are the digestive products of collagen hydrolysate called collagen peptide. Some suggested that collagen peptides could improve aged or damaged skins, however, the effects of collagen peptides on the skin have not been known. In this study, we investigated the effects of digestive products of collagen peptides, hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide on skin quality using the UV-damaged dorsal skin of hairless mouse as a model system. Female SKH hairless mice were pre-irradiated with UV for 7 weeks, and then hydroxyproline, Pro-Hyp dipeptide were orally administered for 7 weeks with UV irradiation. Wrinkle formation (by replica image), skin elasticity, barrier status (by TEWL, transepidermal water loss), epidermis thickness, and biophysical changes in the stratum comeum (by hematoxylin & eosin staining) were examined. With the oral peptide treatment, effects such as skin barrier maintenance, anti-skin thickening, and recovery of the stratum corneum were observed. These results indicate that oral intake of collagen peptides may have beneficial effects on damaged skin cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.177-186
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• 2013

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type I procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo-aging.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.234-241
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• 2013

The phenolic compounds of water extracts from Prunella vulgaris were highest at 9.25 mg/g, respectively, when various extraction solvents were used. The optimum condition for extracting phenolic compounds from Prunella vulgaris was extraction in water for 18hr. The DPPH-scavenging activities of Prunella vulgaris were highest at the water extracts. The ABTS radical cation decolorization was higher than 40% in the range of 0~100% ethanol extract section. The antioxidant protection factor on the lipophilic phenolic metabolites was shown to be 1.1 PF in the water extracts from Prunella vulgaris. The TBARS was lower than the control ($0.53{\mu}M$) in all the sections. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to skin whitening, was above 40%, and for the anti-wrinkle effect, the elastase inhibition activity was above 40% at 0.2 mg/mL. The astringent effect of the Prunella vulgaris 40% ethanol extracts was 98.1% at 1 mg/mL. As a result, it can be concluded that Prunella vulgaris has the potential to be used as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.393-397
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• 2004

L-Carnitine $({\beta}-hydroxy-{\gamma}-trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric{\;}acid)$ is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-carnitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition and activity and expression of UYA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts. Also, we studied to develop as anti-aging cosmetics with L-carnitine. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immune sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-carnitine on MMP expression, activity, and MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast $(5\;J/cm^2)$, respectively. In addition, we performed clinical study with L-carnitine cream. L-carnitine inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45 mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP-1, 2 expression was reduced $43\%,\;53\%$ by treated with L-carnitine at 1.25 mM, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibit the MMP activity, and regulate MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. The results of clinical study showed that $1.0\%$ L-carnitine treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cosmetics for protection against UVA induced Mm expression and activity.