• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2019

The material composition of 19 ornaments used for women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century, which are kept at National Folk Museum of Korea, was analyzed using SEM-EDS. Sixteen ornaments were composed of $Na_2O$ and PbO, which form adifferent lead glass from those that have been excavated or handed down since ancient times in Korea. The chemical composition analysis has confirmed that two ornaments belong to the mixed alkali glass, while one belongs to the potash glass IIItype. This lead glass is similar in composition to the Japanese craft lead glass that was imported to Joseon during the Japanese colonial era. It is estimated that the lead glass ornaments used in women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century were made from raw materials imported from Japan or made from lead glass used for crafts in Japan. This shows that jewelry such as jade and amber, which have been traditionally used in the modern and present ages, have been replaced by craft lead glass imported from Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.945-956
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• 2001

The costume for gods in the Ancient Roman myth was studied by examining in the embossed-carving, sculptures, mural-painting and various documents of the period. The clothes item, hairstyle, symbol & ornaments and shoes of the gods in the Roman myths were analyzed to understand the formative process in the religious costumes, and results are as follows. First, the costumes for male gods are the same as those for ordinary men lived in ages, including toga, paludamentum, tebenna, tunica. The costumes for female gods are also the same as those for ordinary women lived in ages, including stola, palla, tunica. Second, the hairstyle of male gods is short curled-hair, twisty roll-up hair and braid long-hair due to the influence of Etrurian in the early days. Another hairstyle is appeared in form of the laurelled-crown. The hairstyle of female gods is curled long-hair, chignon style and braid roll-up hair decorated with hairband. Third, the symbol & ornaments which represent the responsible possession of male gods, are appeared in beard, a stick of the message, arrow-case, offering-dish, antlered-glass, shield, spear-handle, as the superhuman forms, such as the lightning shape. For female gods they are is appeared plastron, a stick of the message, flower. some female gods wear necklace, foot-ring, bracelet. Fourth, male gods wear shoes in forms of sandal, buskin, boots, but all female gods are in barefoot. It could be explained by the fact that a man-centered society in the ancient roman is reflected in the world of gods. As mentioned, Gods costume in Roman myths was very similar to or nothing different from the ordinary peoples in Rome. However, they used corps, sacrifices or sepcific symbols depending on the fields that they were responsible for in order to be distinguished from the ordinary people. This is the result from the peoples expression that they should keep a close relationship with Gods hoping to be protected, and rely on them under whatever circumstances.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.16 s.16
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• pp.104-109
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• 2004

The characteristics and composition of the ancient glasses excavated at Songdong-ri, Sangju, Kyongsangbuk-do were analyzed using Scanning Electron Microscope attached with Energy Dispersive Spectrometer. As the results, the glass beads of Songdong-ri showed that there were changed the composition, the color and types according to the periods. There were appeared potash and soda glass group at A.D.4 century and potash and mixed alkali glass group at A.D. 17 century. The potash glasses of A.D. 4c. were colored blue and contained low $Al_2O_3$ and CaO composition as below $5\%$. The soda glasses of This period were colored blue and red, and contained $Al_2O_3$ composition as upper $5\%$. But the potash glasses of A.D.17c. showed the transparent yellow color and considerably higher CaO, $11.7\%$. 'Coil glasses' typed unique were colored yellow-brown, Cu-blue and colorless, were classified the mixed alkali glass as upper $5\%\;of\;Na_2O\;and\;K_2O$. The composition of coil glasses were presented first at this study.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.405-420
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• 2020

A convergence research was conducted on glass beads excavated at the ruins of Hapgang-ri, Sejong, using the archeology and conservation approach. The period of appearance of Jugu Towangmyo in the ruins of Hapgang-ri can be estimated to begin in the late 2^nd century; for Jugu Towangmyo No. 15, the period spans from the late 2^nd to early 3^rd century. Form, color, and manufacturing techniques of complete glass beads were examined, and the cross-sections and chemical composition of 16 samples were observed. Based on these analyses, the glass beads were divided into blue, purple, and red colors. The blue-colored beads could be further sub-divided based on their gloss and brightness; in contrast, the red-colored beads were highly uniform with regard to these parameters. Based on the stripe and bubble arrangement on the surface of the glass beads, their drawing technique was identified. Traces of heat treatment or polishing were observed at the ends of the beads. According to their chemical composition, the 16 samples were classified into 3 potash glass and 13 soda glass groups; in the latter, the properties of the stabilizers were divided according to the blue and red bead colors. The stabilizers of the red beads are unique in that they allow the distinction among beads excavated in other areas in South Korea owing to their compositional differences. Colorants in blue- and red-colored beads are cobalt (containing MnO), and copper and iron, respectively.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.22
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• pp.69-84
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• 2019

This study investigated the formal characteristics and chemical compositions of eighty beads excavated from a Silla tomb complex at Deokcheon-ri, Uljin in order to reveal the methods of production and the characteristics of the raw materials involved, thereby illuminating characteristics of the relics from each tomb. The beads excavated from these Silla tombs include one curved bead, one tubular bead, and 78 globular beads. Among them, the curved and tubular beads and three globular beads were identified to be made of minerals, and the remaining 75 beads are made of glass. Most of the glass beads are thought to have been produced using the drawing technique. The characteristics of the beads were classified according to their site of excavation. The globular beads from Tomb No. 34 belong to the lead-barium glass and potash glass groups, indicating that these beads were produced at a relatively earlier period in time. The glass beads excavated from the tombs in the northern portion of the complex differ in color and chemical composition from those in the southern portion, which indicates the character that each group of beads had different aspect according to site location. Considering that the excavated beads were mainly from fifth- and sixth-century tombs, it is likely that certain groups of people living around Uljin used and buried beads in their tombs. As the governance of Silla became more centralized in the sixth century, the use of beads for burial purpose appears to have come to an end in this region.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.7
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• pp.48-55
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• 1986

The gold crown unearthed from the ancient tombs at Imdang-dong, Kyongsan-gun, Kyongsangbuk-do was in a state of severe corrosion that its original pattern couldn't be identified. Therefore, for the conservation of the relics, the following methods are employed :1. With 10% formic acid are used for the elimination of the bronze-rust and then plated them with gold.2. As a rust-proof treatment, 1% Benzotriazole is used for stem corrosion as well3. For protection and reinforcement of the surface of the relics, 30% incralac agentsare used.4. Pieces of fragments are bonded together by cyanoacrylate and on the backside are coated partially with Araldite for the reinforcement of the glass-wool.5. Silica-gels are kept into the acryl box for perfect maintenance.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.104-108
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• 2004

Species and anatomical characteristics of twenty-seven straw shoes (around AD 500s-600s) of Baekje Kingdom, excavated at Gwanbukri and Goongnamji relics of Baeje Kingdom, were examined. The shoe tissues were macerated and examined under microscope. They were identified as Typha spp (cattails), not any of straws such as rice. Cattails, a perennial glass, grow in low and swamp places. Cattails are not known as one of major raw materials for straw shoes. The cattail fibers are not as strong as those of rice straws, common raw materials for ancient shows.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.97-100
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• 2009

Patchwork is a handicraft to put some certain shapes of small cloths together. Historical records of patchwork was discovered in Ancient Egypt as far back as BC 1000. Patchwork has been popular in the England and in around 13-$14^{th}$ century, European spliced little pieces of cloths for cold necessities, which made the handle of patchwork techniques gradually tend to decorative other than utility. Patchwork designs and techniques were taken across the Atlantic to North America with the early settlers in the mid-eighteenth century. In the early years of $20^{th}$ century, owing to the continuous technological advances, woman got more job opportunities that made patchwork technologies withered. Patchwork art continually evolved on the basis of historical and cultural factors to new styles, the famous Hawaiian, Stained Glass, Mola, Celtic, Victoria, Seminole and many other patchwork styles like that perfect embodied different art and cultures of different nations in different times.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.66-83
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• 2018

This article focuses how the materials of hatstrings of the 19th to 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men among the collections of National Folk Museum of Korea, was transformed after port opening treaties with overseas since 1876. As a result of analyzing the materials of the hatstrings, amber, tortoiseshell, wood and bamboo as the traditional materials were used, and ivory, glass (soda glass, lead glass, alkali mixed glass) and plastics (cellulose nitrate, phenol-formaldehyde, polystyrene, acryl) were newly used for the hatstrings. Bamboo, wood and amber were the most frequently used materials. Bamboo was mainly used for the pipe of hatstring and were combined with beads and central decorations of other materials. This shows the trend of bamboo hatstring according to the simplification of the clothing and the culture by Regent Heungseon Daewongun. Ambers were used in the central decorations and beads and the origin of ambers was baltic amber just like the amber relics found in Korea. Compositions of glass were soda glass and alkali mixed glass which were excavated or handed down in Korea from ancient times to Joseon dynasty. But in the case of lead glass, Na2O was detected and it is considered to be a new type lead glass for crafts which came from overseas after port opening since 1876 because it showed the characteristic that it deviates from the lead glass component found in Korea. Plastics such as cellulose nitrate and phenol-formaldehyde were used as new synthetic materials to replace traditional materials such as tortoiseshell, amber, and coral as in the West. Cracks, crazing, crumbly and yellowing of cellulose nitrate of hatstrings were observed by deterioration. The survey of the materials of the 19th to 20th century hatstrings among the collections of National Folk Museum of Korea showed that the introduction of new materials such as glass and plastics were used to replace natural materials such as tortoiseshell and amber along with the use of traditional materials after port opening since 1876.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.247-268
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• 1992

The Clothing expresses people's desire of beauty most directly of all cultural inheritances, and it teach us how the human culture has changed and developed. In this study researched the history of buttonholes which make the clothes more functional and beautiful. Buttons and Buttonholes is one of detailed elements they used as a fastener or as a decoration on clothing. Button have been used since ancient times, in early times long before buttons were used as fasteners they had significant decorative and symbolic value. In ancient times, clothes fastened with pins, brooches, fibular and ties. In medieval Europe, it was not until the 13th century that they used the button in functional use, and then Chong Ryung-Lk was introduced from orient, and they became popular as fasteners on clothing during the 13th century when fitted clothes replaced loose garments. Garments were laced together or fastened with buttons, until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. But as early as the 14th century it appears that someone discovered that a loop slipped over a button, or button pushed through a slit in the cloth, would make a good clothes fastener. Many buttons made during the modern ages were convex medallions set in metal rims and decorated with partraits of famous men and women. During the modern ages, buttons, with ligh-ographed pictures, covered with celluloid of glass were popular. In the 19th century, the mass production by machine made people use the button easily, and many different material of button easily and many different material of button was made. With the begining of the 20th century. the development of plastics led to various and functional buttons. The type of buttonholes also became various, as bound buttonhole, Tailred buttonhole, Worked buttonhole, Loop buttonhole and so on. The button has many forms which were imitated by nature, or made geometrically and the appearance of the button from behind is classified by what has holes and what has holes and what has a shank, and I also classified the kinds of button by the quality of the material design and use. Like this, with the passing of the time buttons and buttonholes have changed in appearance with the change of clothes, and they have standed for something meaningful as well as fixed the opening and made clothes more beautiful.