• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.65-75
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• 2013

As a typical subculture, Goth exercises influence on our culture in broad areas. Features of Gothic style, such as dark aesthetics, images of death and fear, and erotic horrification, emerged as attractive themes to contemporary fashion designs. Based on the dark attraction of black color, Goth fashion creates mysterious and fantastic atmosphere as well as grotesque and horrifying mood. 'Hallyu' or Korean wave is a term to describe the phenomenon of fervently loving Korean popular culture. As the fast spreading Hallyu is strongly engraved through the visually conspicuous fashion, we can say that fashion plays important role in diffusing Hallyu. In addition, a number of analyses and researches on the Hallyu, including K-pop, have been conducted, while concentrating keen interest in fashion of Hallyu K-pop stars. Accordingly, this study is designed to examine relations between fashion of K-pop stars and Goth fashion after analyzing features of Hallyu and K-pop and contemplating Goth fashion. Namely, this study will analyze various Goth images shown in K-pop fashion, which is the core of Hallyu, and identify aesthetic features of Goth shown in the fashion of K-pop stars. An investigation and analysis of the Goth images shown in the fashion of K-pop stars identifies the following features : a black aesthetic, eroticism, defiance, reversal of gender identity, and mystery.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.22
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• pp.45-61
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• 2011

Performers of 'Seoul Jinjinokigut' point to aesthetics of performance centered on sense of sight, not sense of hearing. 'Seoul Jinjinokigut' is a kind of theatrical mode of performance, not narrative mode of performance. Performers of 'Seoul Jinjinokigut' succeed in making of relationships of harmonious fusion between 'social drama' and 'stage drama' through performing of Jinjinokigut. 'Seoul Jinjinokigut' is a kind of mode of performance that fuses life and death, not narratively but theatrically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.225-245
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• 1992

The button is a part of costume. But it has the symbolism of costume in itself and reflects the sociocultural phenomena. The purpose of this study is to clarify symbolism of button of eighteenth and nineteenth century which had been most popular. This study is based on the library research. Through this paper, I reached conclusions as follows. The symbolism of button is found in various ways. First, Aesthetics is found in material, color, design and type etc. of button. Especially Indian silver button of abstract type shows well distinctive aesthetics of Indians. Second, The material and the number of button vary with one's status and show off one's privilege. I England, there was the rule, in which the symbol of the King was a silver button with a figure of lion. The livery button represents his family to the nble and shows the meaning of obedience to the servant. Third, The button on uniform varies with ranks. This is prominent in a uniform of a soldier or a policeman. Fourth Material and craft of button show one's economic position. The button gives a Very good picture of what one's life was then. Precious button with gold, silver, and other jewels is an index to one's property. Fifth, The button of political event is used for election, which shows the face and the name of runner. Besides that, there were buttons designed for the flag or the slogan for political event. Sixth, The button of social event reflects a social phase of life in war or revolution, for example, it satirizes the burning of the Bastille in the French Revolution, or the taxpayer bearing the burden. Seventh, the buttons that symbolize a historic event are made to commemorante an epochal and critical occurrence or an important person's birth, death, visit to some place, etc., Eighth, there were well-known persons, for example, a president, a king, a queen, a singer, or an artist in the buton of personality. Nineth, The button of one's company shows one's community in figures or pictures, that is, this button is used as a symbol one's community. Tenth, The button varies with the development of science and technology. It gives a very good picture of what it was and what the technological level was. Eleventh, The buttons that symmbolize on occupation most impressively are uniform buttons. Symbolic marks related with a particular occupation are carved on the buttons of compary employees' uniforms. Twelfth, Various natural phenomena are designed to appear on buttons, Some express themselves simply as they are, and others appear as a symbolic form such as environmental relationship between men and nature, four seasons, a constellation and all other natural things occurring during a year. Finally, The button of rebus is a motto expressed by a combination with objects figures, letters, words, or phrases.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.52
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• pp.159-188
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• 2014

Under the influence of postmodernism, modern writing tends to refuse an immediate conveyance of messages achieved by linear, unified writing. Such writing does not attempt any social participation and has no leading ethics, offering diverse perspectives. It simply relies on material property ignoring the 'here and now'. This discussion depends on the sensuous immediacy of works that are pure and uninterpretable, causing the "death of author" phenomena. Although the time was late, since the 1990s, discussion and work on deconstructive theater has been executed in the Korean theater world. This deconstructive work was achieved when lineal narratives were shattered through the shocking insertion of fragmentary episodes and imagery. Moreover, such plays were shocking presentations of severance in conversation; lack of communication; loss of pride and love; and a world devastated by violence and madness. In the 2000s, such a movement helped form a new paradigm in the theater through reinterpretation and parody of traditional dramas, while drawing general attention to postmodern theater. However, as the problems of postmodern theater are perceived through study, the limit of plays with a postmodern tendency is pointed out: such plays merely display 'deconstruction'. This thesis will examine reflective thought on postmodern theater seeking "deconstruction without alternatives" and the aesthetic concept of "le politique" by Jacques Ranciere. It will also look through the overlap of images as interval-estrangement, "lettre morte", and simulacre representing mise-en-scene aesthetics weaving "political writing". This study is meaningful in that it tries to extend the new aesthetic horizon of Korean theater, examining in 2009 and by Koh Sun-Woong in 2011, directed by Park Chung-Hee in 2010 and directed by Park Keun-Hyung in 2009.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.40
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• pp.207-237
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• 2010

Concentrating on the birth, life, and death of the Living Theatre, almost half a century avant-garde group, the primary purpose of this study at large is to explore its counter-cultural philosophy. While taking a chronological form adapting the biological order, the paper focuses on the troupe's productions: , , , , and . Through out these productions the philosophy of the Living Theatre seemed to included communal, anti-intellectual, politically radical, generally Utopian, and proselytizers for sexual freedom. The history of the Living Theatre interestingly parallels the history of the Beck's theatre in occupation and shut down. The first New York theatre was closed by fire inspectors for instance. The second theatre was declared unsafe, and locked up by the Building Department. The third theatre was seized by the IRS, consequently shut down. In 1984, after more than 25years from the third building, the Living Theatre settled once again on East Third Street in Manhattan. The theatre was however evacuated by the New York City Fire Department in 1993 and once more took to the road. With these struggles, the Becks' profound aspiration of the counter-cultural insurgency came to harden as strong as 'iron' in some ways. With the outstanding components of counter-cultural philosophy and style, the Living Theatre, in the course of the transformation, absorbed and then reflected virtually every phase for the Living Theatre were vehicles for more than just aesthetics. The group seemed to propagandize its beliefs rather performing productions. Accordingly, both on and off-stage action of the Living Theatre caused great controversy either through political activism of individual members or through the unconventional collective life style. No avant-garde theatre company was more emblematic of the rebellious spirit of the sixties than the Living Theatre. Like the first great transformation, the Becks' encounter, their personal values and the form of theatre they created had blended 'so inextricably that the vitality of each was dependent on the other.' The Becks always urged unity and harmony at all levels of human life, but not at any price. The anticapitalist ideal inspired the Becks to promote a politically motivated campaign throughout their productions. They believed the revolution is desirable but in the state of non-violence and the expansion of human consciousness. Julian Beck's gravestone identifies his as pet, painter, actor, and anarchist. The Living Theatre was a 'small umbrella' under which the Becks and its members could breath and unfold their dream on stage or in the street.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.114-130
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• 2005

In postmodernism, the sublime that reaches ecstasy overcoming terror or pain is described as the most expressive phenomenon. The purpose of this study is to understand the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion. for this purpose, 1 investigated the theories of the sublime, categorized the definition and modes, then applied those categories for contemporary fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetic, design and fashion books and the demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from fashion magazines. In the history of aesthetics, the sublime is explained as the ambivalent feeling mixed with pain and pleasure, terror and delight or negation and affirmation. In this study, the sublime could be defined as the aesthetic pleasure through the transcendence of the pain and terror and classified into 3 categories, the tragic, the initiative, and the deconstructive. The tragic sublime that includes the terrific, the disgusting and the religious character is expressed through the image of death or the physical torture, the satanic image or disgusting object and the ascetic image and religious sign or icons. The limitless sublime that includes the giant and the dynamic character is accomplished by consist of the elongation or the enlargement and the powerful authority. The deconsturctive sublime that includes the negative, the indeterminate and the complex character is associated with the deconstruction in style, the reversal of image and the destruction of the space of the body. Analysis on the sublime expressed in contemporary fashion may provide an excellent way for understanding human aesthetic consciousness in dress.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.923-938
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• 2009

Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2001

Beginning in the Wei-Chin and Liu Ch´ao era(AD. 220-589), an awareness of natural beauty emerged as the major interest of scholars which created such a social atmosphere that served as the foundation of prosperous Chinese art. During the T´ang period, the desire to achieve natural beauty began to dominate every field of art including gardening. This study covers the T´ang period when scholars began to be conscious of aesthetics. The main objective of this study is to examine the significance of natural beauty as interpreted by Wangwei, an artist representative of the period, and of Wangchuan Villa in relation to aspects of garden theory. This study is mainly based on Wangwei´s anthology, landscape painting describing Wangchuan Villa, and historical records related to the Villa. The summary of conclusions of this study is as follows: 1) Wangwei´s concept of natural beauty is a combination of objective natural beauty and pastoral beauty, which stresses the essential beauty of nature. Moreover, he considered nature as a religious Utopia. 2)Wangchuan Villa, where Wangwei stayed until his death, was a place of seclusion representing his idea of natural beauty. There, he was able to realize the paradise of Buddhism full of zen aspirations. 3)From the perspective of garden theory, Wangchuan Villa can be classified as a suburb villa in terms of location, as a landscape garden in terms of elements, and as a villa based on a typical private land system in terms of forms. In addition, it may be considered as a garden that laid the foundation to realize a field of non-visible image and non-visible landscape, which is fundamental element of scholarly garden design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.73-105
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to contend the importance of resurrection of fluid identity and ecological imagination for making the habitable biosphere in Marilynne Robinson's Housekeeping. Ruth as a narrator suggests the future-oriented vision that the environment and nature(mother) can be resurrected, crossing Fingerbone bridge of the boundary line of society/nature as a faithful follower of her aunt Sylvie and becoming the existence with a transparent voice despite of her absence. This novel is to rewrite the American pastoral. Based on the patriarchical way despite of the absence of Edmund Foster, Sylvia's conventional housekeeping is to divide between inside and outside of the house. Nevertheless, Sylvia's relentless efforts to keep her house intact turns out to be fragile. Contrasting with Sylvia, Sylvie's housekeeping is to recognize the continuity of inside and outside. She willingly accepts the reconciliation of the self, the nature and the society. After Ruth and Lucille's staying at night in the lake, they are diverged into going their own way. Ruth accepts Sylvie as a substitute mother. Lucille leaves the house voluntarily and go to her Home Economics teacher, Miss Royce, pursuing the ideal mother of symbolic society. Sylvie and Ruth has the more intimate bond, with their trip to the deserted house in the valley. Ruth meditates on the non-solidity of house and the resurrection of her family. Leaving their house to escape from the town people's legal enforcement, Sylvie and Ruth become transients. Although their history is completed by the drown-death publicly, they always want to visit Lucille's well kept house in Fingerbone. Therefore the method for making Ruth and Sylvie as the existences of ecological imagination return to the real world is to accept the reconciliation of nature and society. This novel is not limited as the binary opposition of vagrance/stability and transience/durability. The significant element of fluid identity can be composed of the interactions with transience and stability.