• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.43-57
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• 1999

A style of art is an expression of human aesthetic desires, social environment and other cultural yeatures of that time. costume as a means of physical existence of such expression cannot be studied apart from the art style of any given time. In this paper an attempt is made to find out the characteristics of costumes in Renaissance and Barogue by examing the theory of Wolfflin. The organic relationship with the manifestation of human beauty in the genuine art and its formality was clear so that the fact that the dress and its costume are actually a synthetic art and there is close connection with genuine art were made clear. In conclusion, costume and art style are in different genre, they pursued the same way in the same category of Wolfflin's theory in Renaissance and Baroque.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.59-80
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• 2000

In February 1947, Christian Dior startled the world with his spring collection. He transformed the unflattering square shouldered outline of women's wartime fashion overnight. It was not only fashion that made a pivotal point for opulence and elegance, The style of architecture, furniture, glass, and silverware also made a radical change. The new style emerged after war called " organic modernism'. This study is to define the visual characteristics of fashion, architecture, furniture and craft after World War II and examine the social factors and aesthetics that generated a new style. The common asthetic characteristics are freedom, abstraction of symbolic from, asymmetry, and exaggeration of form. The social factors, values and aesthetics are economic reconstruction and renaissance of design , technical development and new materials, fredom and optimistic view after the holocaust of war, and organic aesthetics and humanism.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.71-82
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to establish the relationship between Durand's architectural theory which provided reasonable architectural logic in the early 19th century, and architectural logic of the Modern Movement of Architecture led by avant-garde architects in the 1920's. The system of thought in architecture proposed by Durand which clarified a architectural design method(composition) is very similar to the one of the International Style(Book), which summarizes commonalities in the flow of modern architecture. This approach has something in common from the perspective of the systems of thought, despite differences in external forms and time gaps. Therefore, this study intends to examine the systems of thought in three ways. It is to examine how the two systems of thought define architecture, what is the logic of building production, and finally the value of architecture (including aesthetic values) while eliminating classical aesthetics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.275-292
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to recognize the aesthetic characteristics of the Maximalism depicted in contemporary costumes of new millennium. This is done by analyzing and examining the social and cultural background of fashion in the few years of 21st century. The fashion trend of the beginning of 21st century was coexisted conflicting factors with ultramodern factor and past recurrent factor. For that reason, new millennium is to be existence background of Maximalism style in contemporary costumes. The social and cultural background of Maximalism was regarded as characteristics of the Glocalism, fusion style, bobos. Glocalism means a compound word of Globalism and Localism, and used various fields of policy, economics, society etc. Consequently, the aesthetic formativeness of Maximalism of the contemporary costumes was investigated as the 'Romantic Hippie Look' and 'Romantic Sports Look' 1) Romantic Hippie Look New millennium fashion trend is affected by hippie style of 1970's. That is major reason that the antiwar consciousness of 9.11 terror, USA-Afganistan war and the economic depression is similar to 1970's situation. Accordingly, fashion trend is developed into bright, light, romantic style and fashion designers chose materials with flowers, butterflies, dragonflies pattern. Because the clothing of these material reflects well modern people's feeling to escape misgivings, unrest of political terror, war etc. The characteristics of hippie style expressed freedom as the greatest merit was raised new trend, so called 'Romantic Hippie Look' on new millennium. That is, the romantic hippie look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multiculturalism and nationalism. 2) Romantic Sports Look : The beginning of new millennium, many fashion designers intend to graft the details of sports wear on order made or ready made clothing and try to show luxury and cheerful fashion design with combination of sporty and romantic factors. Accordingly, theses fashion trends expressed 'Romantic Sports Look' with a harmony or disharmony of unusual factors. The fashion trend of new millennium centering around special cities like New York, Paris, Milan moved to various regional culture. Accordingly, the features of fashion depicted not unique theme but multiplicity of the clothing of dissimilar style or material by the mixture of 2 or 3 factors like the fusion of femininity and masculinity and the combination of past and present of details. That is, the romantic sports look of the contemporary costumes is depicted as the formative beauty of the multi-functional and crossover.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.48
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• pp.385-419
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• 2012

Son Jinchaek got into his directing career since 1976 when he founded the theatre group Minye with Huhgyu and others. His experience in Minye was the turnaround of his life; Huhgyu was a teacher in his artist's life whereas Brecht was a teacher for his ideology to make 'Korean Theatre'. From these two teachers, he learned how and why Korean Theatre should be made. Since then, Korean theatre was his calling for 40 years of his directing career. As he established Michoo in 1986, it served a turning point in his art. His focus was on intrinsic attributes of Korean Theatre with Madang Jungshin. With Madang Jungshin, he tried to get over the former generation's fixation on external materials of Korean traditional theatre and folk culture to make Korean Theatre. Rather, he believed Korean Theatre could be realized when it grafted Korean social reality onto the stage, while the form was subsequent. He advocated Korean Theatre should mirror present social reality and circulate social energy. Also, he did not give up aesthetics. On the contrary, his aesthetic style was conspicuously evident in his productions. In spite of his life long career with noteworthy works, the critical discourses are strikingly scarce especially when compared with other senior and peer directors such as Hugh Gyu, Ahn Minsoo, Oh Taesok, and Lee Yoontaek. During his career he has crossed into various genres from Changeuk, Madangnori, and to theatres, which were too versatile to thread them into a discourse and caused a lack of theoretical greeting. Madangnori has anchored its artistic structure on its polished aesthetics which were acclaimed by the general audience for 30 years. For theatre, he concentrated on one production per year to grasp its own style. Theatre works also had revealed his own style of being opened and of being emptied which was certainly different from Madangnori, but had same aesthetic principle within it. This paper attempts to recompose his stylistic features with 'Madang aesthetics' which were based on open space, open acting style, and graphic ensemble. This paper tries to demonstrate how his 'Madang aesthetics' has refined his productions in scenography, acting style, and in more like metaphoric and metonymic symbolic expression of the graphic ensemble. To do this, two productions were explored: eLee Chunpoongjeun and Yulha Ilgyee Manbo. Madangnori was sorely explored by Son Jinchaek with his artistic colleagues Yoon Munshik, Kim Jongyeup, Kim Sungnyu, music designer Park Buhmhoon, and choreographer Guk Sooho. Though it has been ignored for its popular appeal by the doctrinaire theoretical opinions, it started to pull academic attention recently. His theatres are also getting sharp with his 'Madang aesthetics' as well as minimalistic expression in scenography, acting style, and graphic ensemble. Madang Jungshin is the soul and Madang aesthetics is the body in his artistic works. The Madang Jungshin animates the Madang aesthetics, so they become alive in his theatre.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.1-9
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• 2003

This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.379-390
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• 2005

Every Society has it's own ideology and lifestyle and these form its unique aesthetic experience or values. In the paper observing recent, especially in 1980s and 1990s. Korean street fashion that is one way of expressing their values and lifestyle, the aesthetic values related to the morality have been studied. Through the studies using the cafes of Korean street fashion style we can understand the change of morality and fashion style according to the change of socio-cultural environments more deeply. For study methods documentary study and case study were executed. Morality related clothing were defined in detail through documentary studies and for analysis of street fashion from 1980s and 1990s the cases from 'Mut' and 'Ceci' magazines as well as the articles from Chosunilbo, Dongailbo and Maeilkyungje were looked over one by one. By understanding the intrinsic meanings and formal features of resent Korean street fashion, the direction for future fashion designing could be guided, which could satisfy consumers' needs in the rapidly changing world situation. Followings are the results of the study. First, morality of clothing could be defined in detail regarding modesty and extravagance. Modesty could be directly related to exposure of body and norms for appearances and extravagance to fashion oriented, luxury goods or brand name oriented and spending. Second, the exposing body has been accepted and permitted by public even with criticism more easily but they were less generous to values about norms regarding clothing. Third, the change of morality related to modest has happened earlier than the change of morality related to extravagance, which has begun very recently in 2000s.