• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.122-134
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the visual effects and images according to changes in the line and length of the connecting lines of the neck, center front, and hem line from analyzing the bolero style shown in 2005 S/S domestic fashion. The basic lines of the bolero were classified into three different categories according to the connecting lines of the neck, center front line, and hem line. We altered the length of the bolero in three categories with changes in the waistline-5cm, waistline-8cm, and waistline-11cm. For the visual evaluation, 9 stimuli were placed in mannequins, and were estimated by the experts in the fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the line and length of the bolero, we used 12 pairs of items to find the visual effects, and 13 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. The stimuli and adjectives were randomly given to the evaluators and were evaluated by the 7-Point Likert Type Scale. The data have analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, anova, scheffe's test. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual effects of the Bolero, the result was classified into 4 factors: the whole silhouette, neck line, breasts and shoulders. According to the result of factor analysis of the visual image of the Bolero, the result was classified into 3 factor: maturity, tenderness, neatness. The visual effects by variations in the line and length of the bolero had significant differences in all factors. The visual images by variations in the line and length of the bolero had significant differences in the maturity, tenderness, but they didn't show significant differences in neatness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

• The korean journal of orthodontics
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.245-258
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• 1997

Cephalometric radiographs, frontal photographs and profile silhouette phogographs of 68 young adult female who were model or were recommended to have esthetic face were used in this study. 7 Students in department of Art of Kyungpook national university and 15 orthodontists estimated profile slides which were made of 3 Profile silhouettes in parallel with FH plane. Profile silhouettes were made of soft tissue profile line of cephalometric radiograph. Only orthodontists estimated frontal photographs. Students and orthodontists score 9 in excellent case, score 7 in good case, score 5 in average case, score 3 in poor case. Correlation analysis between orthodontists' esthetic concept and Artists' esthetic concept, between frontal view esthetics and profile view esthetics which estimated by orthotontists, between profile view esthetics and profile measurements which consisted of measurements of 38 female who were scored above 5 mean score in profile silhouette by orthodontists were done. And the finding in this study indicated the following 1. Correlation between orthodontists' esthetic concept and Artists' esthetic concept in profile silhouette was significant (r=0.67,P=0.0001). 2. Correlation between frontal view esthetics and profile view esthetics which estimated by orthodontist was significant (r=0.26,P=0.0381). 3. Measurements which had significant correlation between profile measurements and profile view esthetics wer Na-Pog, to N', BNV to Pog', BNV/B' -Pog', Ls-Li-Pog', Li-B'-Pog' Z angle(P<0.05). 4 Mean and standard deviation of profile measurements of 38 female were obtained.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.960-967
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• 2012

The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were 'appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap', 'appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference'. 'appropriateness of pressure of waist', 'suitability of side line and body curve', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line', and 'satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back'. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.694-703
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• 2013

A variable dress design can be an alternative to satisfy a consumer need for diverse expression and self-realization at a lower cost factor. In the area of wedding dress, the change in the trend of wedding culture (which tends to demand more units of wedding dress) makes the cost factor more important in the purchase selection. A variable design has a clear advantage for wedding dresses and the wedding industry. This is the first research on a variable design that focuses on wedding dresses. This research develops a variable wedding design which respects consumer preferences independent of a variable wedding dress design that presents a new shape of silhouette or the development ofa new wedding dress materials. A survey on the supply side was conducted to examine market preferences by first browsing the Naver portal site and then checking the websites of major wedding dress suppliers. A questionnaire survey was conducted with a sample of 348 brides-to-be that inquired on wedding dress selection factors and purchase patterns. The survey shows that consumers prefer mermaid and A-line silhouettes, silk material, white-ivory color, and tube top necklines. The result conforms to the types commonly found in the designs of suppliers. We apply a detachable design to a basic mermaid silhouette and implemented change for 7 kinds of styles -based on the result of the survey. We suggest a variable wedding dress design as a new means to solve the cost concern and the customer need for diverse expression. The research represents a new life style for wedding culture and facilitates the development of the wedding industry.