• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.549-559
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to study accumlated residual soils which may be one of the causes for yellowing of worn cloths. Wear and wash tests of white cotton undershirts were repeated at 30 households sellected at random over a period of 60 days. Laundry conditions were similar to home laundry habits in a fact-finding survey, using a powdery heavy duty detergent containing no enzymes or enzymes. The subjects in this study were survey of laundry actual condition, the undershirts from prior to and after the final washing was measured residual soils, $L^*a^*b^*$ value and mellowness index of CIE system. D3ta were analysed by simple correlation analysis of wear and wash cycle, residual soils, whiteness The results obtained were summarized as follows: 1. Using pattern of washing machine, Presoaking was no singinificant differnece in general characteristics of survey respondent. Laundry frequency was significant difference in income level, occupation of housewives whether or not. Use of cold and hot water was significant difference in residence shape. 2. The analyzed consequences of recognition and actual behavior in connection with laundry were found variables each other to have independence or not. 3. Amount of residual sebum soils is using non-enzyme detergent were much more than in using enzyme detergent, increased linearly with increase of the number of wear and wash cycles. 4. Residual protein soils with increase of the number wear and wash cycles less than in laundering more easy than sebum soils. Since accumulated residual sebum soils were much more than residual protein soils. 5. Increase of residual soils was raised mellowness index and diminshed whiteness. yellowness index of residual sebum soils was higher than protein soils. If increase of whiteness will be incresed, amount of residual sebum soils will be decreased sebum soils. Because amount of residual sebum soils much more than protein soils, yellowness index of residual sebum soils was more higher than that of protein soils.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.197-210
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to Investigate men's clothing in regard to (1) the effect of wearer's age and clothing: rues on impression formation, and (2) the effect of perceiver's age on impressions formed by the wearer's age and the fuction of clothing cues. The experimental design of this study was between-subjects 24_full factorial design by 4 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 192 subjects in each of two male perceiver groups according to age(20s and 50s). The experimental moterials developed for the study were a set of stimuli al)d a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 16 color photographs made by identical manipulations of 4 independent variables consisting of 2 levels each. Each one of the sixteen sub-samples included 12 subjects from 2 perceiver groups. The independent variables provided by the photographs were (1) wearer's age (20s and 50s), (2) suit color (navy blue and beige),' (3) suit style (single breasted and double breasted), and (4) necktie color (analogous and complementary colors) . The 7-point semantic differential response scale which was designed to measure the impression of the stimuli was composed of 30 bipolar adjectives. The responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis and ANOVA. The results were as follows:1) Wearer's age, suit color, suit style, and necktie color had significant effects on impression of the 3 factors (appearance·potency, individuality activity, and evaluation) partiafly. However, the suit style was the most dominent clothing cue : the single breasted suit conveyed positive impression of individuality' activity to both of the wearer's age groups than double breasted suit did on both of the perceiver's age groups. 2) Perceiver's age partially influenced impressions formed by the age and the clothing cues of men clothed in suits : the young perceiver's group was less affected by them than middle aged group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.36-50
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• 2021

In the COVID-19 era, globally, companies in the fashion industry are pursuing new convergence methods through digital technology. Conventional fashion shows have become difficult to run exclusively, instead, the shows are run through a combination of offline and digital arrangements. This paper examines the trends of seven digital fashion show weeks in London, Paris, Milan, New York, Seoul, Shanghai, and Tokyo, and presents strategies applicable in Korea's Seoul Digital Fashion Week. We focused on the digital technology used in the digital fashion weeks fashion brands, and the characteristics of the host cities. The study conducted a literature review and case study through corporate and research report data, and the Fashion Week website. Based on the study results, changes in fashion industry calendars like 'See now, Buy now', seasonless, and unified collections for men and women, expansion of D2C system, the rise of short-form contents, and the expansion to the virtual world space and physical limitations can be cited as changed trends. The study provides insight into the incorporation of the Korean Wave and K-Pop singers, industrial structure change, and the establishment of B2B system in the Seoul digital fashion week. The shift to the digital runway is not only an alternative method to cope with the COVID-19 era but also a new "new normal". Fashion shows are no longer fixed and planned in free spaces. As a venue displaying the creator's personality, digital fashion week is expected advance in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2022

This study categorized and analyzed the body types of adult women in their 20s and 30s using 3D human measurement data from the 8th Size Korea, and intended to construct body shape and dimension data necessary for modeling Korean standard avatars. Data analysis considered data from 1302 adult women in their 20s and 30s, and a total of 49 index values, drop values, and angle items were subjected to factor analysis and one-way ANOVA to categorize the body type, and Duncan test to post-verify significant differences by type. As a result of conducting factor analysis, 13 factors were extracted and were categorized into 4 body types. Type 1 is short in the upper torso, long in the lower torso, long in the arms and legs, and has a upright body shape and sagging shoulder. Type 2 is short in the torso, arms and legs, and has large torso flexion and lower body circumference. Type 3 has abdominal obesity with small torso flexion and lower body circumference. Type 4 is a small body bending forward type. For the distribution of body types by age among those in their 20s and 30s, the highest appearance rate was Type 1 and was therefore selected as the represntative body type. The body type information of this study will be used as basic data for developing standard avatars.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.