• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.810-825
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• 2021

This study measured and analyzed clothing pressure at each measurement part of commercial body shapers to provide basic information for product design and clothing pressure standard and level. This study used five body shaper. Clothing pressure measurements were taken at 18points: Anterior area 8points, lateral area 5points, posterior area 5points. The findings of this study were as follows. As a result of measuring the clothing pressure, the body shaper 1 showed the highest pressure, and body shaper 5 showed the lowest pressure at almost of the measurement points of the three body types. In some cases, body shapers 2, 3, and 4 showed different orders of pressure depending on the measurement point. The highest measured values in most body shapers were the P1 shoulder area and the P2 bust area. The lowest measurement area differed by body type, but mainly P3 underbust area, P4 thorax area and P9 axillary area, P11 waist lateral area, P13 hip lateral area. These body shapers showed different results depending on the the manufacturers and body type of middle-aged women, and because there was no standard for the pressure value. Therefore, it is necessary to design a body shaper sizing system after accurately setting the clothing pressure value for each body part of the consumer.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.245-254
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop uniform pattern of obese junior-high school girls by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new uniform pattern considered obese junior-high school girls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows; bust girth=B/2+2.5, armhole depth=B/4, front waist girth=W/4+1.8, back waist girth=W/4+1, front hip girth=H/4+1, back hip girth=H/4+1, chest width=chest width+1.5, back width=back width+1 and back neck width 8cm. Second, according to the results of the new uniform pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new uniform pattern is appropriate for the obese junior-high school girls. Also, new uniform pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartA
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• v.13A no.4 s.101
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• pp.371-380
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• 2006

This paper utilizing model picture of finished clothes in fashion design field various material (textile fabrics) doing Draping directly can invent new design, and do not produce direction sample or poetic theme width and confirm clothes work to simulation. Also, construct database about model and material image and embodied system that can confirm Mapping result by real time. And propose clothes simulation system to dress to 3D human body model of imagination because using several cloth pieces first by process to do so that can do simulation dressing abstracted poetic theme width to 3D model here. Proposed system creates 3D model who put clothes by physical simulation that do fetters to mass-spring model after read 3D human body model file and 2D foundation pattern file. System of this treatise examines collision between triangle that compose human body model for realistic simulation and triangle that compose clothes and achieved reaction processing. Because number of triangle to compose human body is very much, this collision examination and reaction processing need much times. To solve this problem, treatise that see could create realistic picture by method to diminish collision public prosecutor and reaction processing number, and could dress clothes to imagination human body model within water plant taking advantage of Octree space sharing techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.32-32
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• 2003

This research has for its object to look carefully into the peculiarity of the color of the costume in the Korean culture by revealing the characteristic and the idea of the color being discovered in the Korean basic culture, which has the majority of the Korean people. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.649-653
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• 2005

패션 의류업계에서 기획의도의 명확한 전달을 위해 제품 사양서, 생산의뢰서, 생산 지시서, 제조지시서 등으로 불리는 작업지시서를 사용하고 있다. 명확한 작업을 지시하기 위해서는 소재, 제조방법, 제조규격, 불량사례 그리고 생산 공장의 작업능력을 등 다양한 정보를 기초로 작업지시서를 작성하여야 한다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 오프라인 작업지시서와 달리 손으로 직접 입력하는 것이 아니라 데이터베이스 시스템을 접목한 디자인과 작업지시서 작성 시스템을 구현하였다. 따라서 본 시스템의 특징은 사용하기 편리한 사용자 인터페이스, 세부지시사항을 위한 도구 지원과 보다 정확하고 쉬운 데이터 입출력이 가능하며 기존 저장 데이터의 활용, 편리한 치수기입 등을 제공한다.