• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• 정보처리학회논문지:소프트웨어 및 데이터공학
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.205-208
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• 2013

일반적으로 이진패턴 변환은 조명 변화에 강인한 특성을 가지므로, 얼굴인식 및 표정인식 분야에 널리 사용되고 있다. 이에, 본 논문에서는 기존의 LDP(Local Directional Pattern)의 텍스처 성분을 개선한 MLDP(Modified LDP) 변환 영상에 2D-PCA(Two-Dimensional Principal Component Analysis) 알고리즘을 결합한 조명변화에 강인한 얼굴인식 방법에 대하여 제안한다. 기존의 LBP(Local Binary Pattern)나 LDP와 같은 이진패턴 변환들이 히스토그램 특징 추출을 위해 주로 사용되는 것과는 다르게, 본 논문에서 제안하는 방법은 MLDP 영상을 2D-PCA 특징추출을 위해 직접 사용한다는 특성을 갖는다. 제안 방법의 성능평가는 PCA(Principal Component Analysis), 2D-PCA 및 가버변환 영상과 LBP를 결합한 알고리즘을 사용하여, 다양한 조명변화 환경에서 구축된 Yale B 및 CMU-PIE 데이터베이스를 이용하여 수행되었다. 실험 결과, MLDP 영상과 2D-PCA를 사용한 제안 방법이 가장 우수한 인식 성능을 보임을 확인하였다.

• Current Optics and Photonics
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.172-178
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• 2018

We propose a precise 3D endoscopic technique for medical and industrial applications. As the 3D measuring principle, the continuously scanning structured illumination microscopy (CSSIM), which enables to obtain 3D sectional images by the synchronous axial scanning of the target with the lateral scanning of the sinusoidal pattern, is adopted. In order to reduce the size of the probe end, the illumination and detection paths of light are designed as coaxial and a coherent imaging fiber bundle is used for transferring the illumination pattern to the target and vice versa. We constructed and experimentally verified the proposed system with a gauge block specimen. As the result, it was confirmed that the 3D surface profile was successfully measured with $16.1{\mu}m$ repeatability for a gauge block specimen. In order to improve the contrast of the sinusoidal illumination pattern reflected off on the target, we used polarizing optical components and confirmed that the visibility of the pattern was suitable in CSSIM.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.552-561
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• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2008

The human body composed of concave and convex curvatures, and the current 3D scanning technology which involves inherent measurement errors make it difficult to extract distinct curvature plot directly. In this study, a method of extracting the clear curvature plot and its application to the cycling pants design were proposed. We have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture. For the ergonomic design line on the 3D human body, the 3D information on the lower part of four male bodies with flexed posture was analyzed. The 3D scan data of four subjects were obtained using Cyberware. As results, the iteration of the tessellated shell was executed 100 times to obtain optimized curvature plots of the muscles on the body surface, and the boundaries of the curvature plots were applied to the design lines. Maximum(Max-pattern) and mean curvature plots(Mean-pattern) were adopted in the design line of the cycling pants, and performance of those lines was compared with that of conventional princess line(Con-pattern). The average error of total area and length in the 2D pattern developed from the 3D flexed body surface in this study were very minimal($4.58cm^2$(0.19%) and 0.15mm(0.46%)), which was within the range of tolerable limits in clothing production. The pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the cycling skin, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered.

• 한국CDE학회논문집
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.300-304
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• 2011

This paper proposes an approach to generate tool-path for laser pattern machining. Considering the mechanical structure of a laser pattern machine, it is quite similar to that of a 2D milling machine. Based on the observation, one may try to utilize the tool-path generation methodologies of 2D milling for the laser pattern machining. However, it is not possible to generate tool-path without considering the technological requirements of laser pattern machining which are different from those of 2D milling. In this paper, we identify the technological requirement of laser pattern machining, and propose a proper tool-path generation methodology to satisfy the technological requirements. For the efficient generation of tool-path, this paper proposes a tool-path element computation method, which is based on the concept of a monotone chain.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.204-214
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• 2019

A CAD program has recently been introduced that can be directly developed into a three-dimensional human body shape and made into a pattern. It is possible to fabricate a bra that reflects the volume and surface area of the breast; however, it still needs to be verified. This study investigates the average size and shape of 20 big-breasted women and designs a brassiere pattern for women with large breasts using a 3D Flattening function of OptiTex PDS v15.6. In addition, the study verifies the reliability of the proposed method compared to a conventional brassiere pattern. The study results are as follows. First, the three dimensional measurement values were smaller than the direct measurement dimensions when the three dimension measurement dimensions of the subjects were compared with the direct measurement dimensions, the replica measurement dimensions and the three dimensional measurement dimensions. Second, the 3D flattening pattern reflects the actual shape, length, and area of the actual breast when comparing a brassiere pattern using a 3D shape and pattern reflecting the direct measurement.