• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.128-137
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristic analysis and to date guidance of European high heeled shoes in 18th century. The research was conducted by stylistic analysis of high heeled shoes from literature review and museums resource. 14 comparative study on shoe objects dating from 1600-1790 in the Museum at F.I.T., New York, Museum of Art, Boston and Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York were selected. The result of this study are as follows: (1) The origin and development of high heeled shoes were accomplished by protection, social status and exaggeration of body, decoration and fashion. (2) According to the comparative study of Museum objects and literature, characteristic analysis of high heeled shoes from 1700-20s, 1730-40s, 1750-60s, 1770-89 and 1890-1900 were accomplished. (3) Significant elements of European women's shoes from 18th century that aid dating are identified as the presence of white rand, shape of tongue, heel shape and height, latchat, toe shape, color and materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.145-159
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• 2007

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. As the 20th century art put premium on self-expression, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in fashion. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the fragmentation of the body in fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in fragmentation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century, The results of the study are as follows. Fragmentation of the body in fashion means the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. The formative aspects of fragmentation are achieved through body casting, displacement, and deconstruction. The absence of physicality in fashion opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\tilde{e}}$ of clothing. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze fragmentation of the body in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.538-548
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• 2000

A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.387-403
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• 2003

This study aims to analyse a trend of exoticism which is often mentioned in the contemporary western fashion. I analyse the internal elements of the exoticism in the fashion. By applying these elements to the exoticism of modern fashion, I intended to make it a useful instrument fur interpreting modern fashion. The results of this study are as follows. The internal elements of exoticism are summarized as escapism, curiosity, fantasy, hybridism and pluralism. 1. From the 19th century to the 1960s . The exoticism shown in the western fashion are influenced by such elements as curiosity and escapism. And diverse and plural exotic elements added a fantastic element to the exoticism. 2. After 1960s : Escapism acted much more because people thought exoticism offer a refuge from overall social problems of modern consumer society. Late in the 20th century, fantastic and hybrid element became more prominent in exoticism. And I found pluralistic view point was the other element of exoticism.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2024

This study examines the creation method using parody in fashion, which has changed from the first half of the 20th century to the present day, by considering the creation method expressed in art. A literature review and case studies were conducted for this research method. The scope of this case study was to examine designer works that attempted an artistic approach, focusing on contemporary fashion in the 20th century to the present. First, it was found that parody, as a creative method in fashion, creates works that reflect designers' new perspectives or perspectives in the form of variations that vary from time to time. Second, the forms of variation that vary from time to time demonstrate Poire's imitation technique in the modernist era. Imitation and critical parody techniques were used in the postmodern era. In the post-contemporary era, the extended parody-type appropriation and re-transmission techniques were used. Third, when comparing creation techniques using parody in art and fashion by period, it was found that the fashion technique, which followed the creation technique in art, adopted the same method as the art technique, as it approached recently.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.97-100
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• 2009

Patchwork is a handicraft to put some certain shapes of small cloths together. Historical records of patchwork was discovered in Ancient Egypt as far back as BC 1000. Patchwork has been popular in the England and in around 13-$14^{th}$ century, European spliced little pieces of cloths for cold necessities, which made the handle of patchwork techniques gradually tend to decorative other than utility. Patchwork designs and techniques were taken across the Atlantic to North America with the early settlers in the mid-eighteenth century. In the early years of $20^{th}$ century, owing to the continuous technological advances, woman got more job opportunities that made patchwork technologies withered. Patchwork art continually evolved on the basis of historical and cultural factors to new styles, the famous Hawaiian, Stained Glass, Mola, Celtic, Victoria, Seminole and many other patchwork styles like that perfect embodied different art and cultures of different nations in different times.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.145-159
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• 1996

Surrealism was originated from the influence of dadaism as one of the new movement in the 20th C. That movement denied the traditional art form, searched the man's inner consciousness and subconsciousness, and discovered automatism as a means to realize this. In this paper, 1 studied the relationship between fashion and art trend, investigating the influence which surrealistic idea and its expression made on modern fashion. Surrealism has expanded and developed the creation of fashion for the 20th century, by supplying a new and good idea th fashion design, and in the coming 21th C., it will greatly contribute to the development for future form of clothes, carrying out the essential function of clothes, which is called the expression of human nature in the harmonization with man.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.72-83
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the history of 20th century fashion and make-up culture, analyze trend of the modern fashion and make-up, creat a cyber make-up model according to themes and also it will find out how to use make-up as a part of fashion genre. As a result of this study is 1. Looking over change-process in 20th century fashion and make-up history, we can find the popular make-up color and pattern reflecting the society and cultural environments. And also make-up culture reflecting their sense of values and way of thinkings. 2. Analyzing fashion and make up color trend of 2002 F/W, we can find a similarity between fashion and make-up color trend by comparing with hue&tone chart. All of theme have a tendency to be natural, veiled, feminine by neutral color and artifical highlighted, illuminate, transparant by clear-high saturation color. 3. Creating imagemaps, color palletes and cyber model of 4 trend themes by computer graphic, It can give more visual and interesting effect on the cyber space, and also it can help to expect make-up will be dizitalized, visualized and informationalized.