• 제목/요약/키워드: 20c fashion

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21세기 현대 패션에 나타난 타영역과의 상호텍스트성에 관한 연구 - 애니메이션, 음악, 무대예술, 테크놀로지를 중심으로 - (A Study on Intertextuality with Other Domains in the 21C Contemporary Fashion - Focused on Animation, Music, Performing Arts and Technology -)

  • 김혜정
    • 복식
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    • 제54권2호
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    • pp.105-119
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    • 2004
  • Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

런닝형 브래지어의 비교분석 (Comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market)

  • 박도윤;정혜순;나미향
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제20권5호
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    • pp.621-634
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    • 2012
  • With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.

염색시술 후 사용한 컨디셔너의 종류에 따른 모표피층의 형태 변화 연구 (A Study on the Morphological Changes of Actual Hair Cuticles by Different Types of Conditioner after Coloring Treatment)

  • 최정명;나현준;박신정;장지혜
    • 한국패션뷰티학회지
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    • 제3권1호
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    • pp.72-77
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    • 2005
  • The present study was to investigate the effects of different types of conditioner on the morphological changes of hair cuticles after coloring treatment. The virgin hair, aged 22 years served as a subject. Coloring treatment was done with a commercial hair dye agent for 35 minutes as routine procedures at $25^{\circ}C$, 50% R.H. environmental condition. The two different types of conditioner, Essence and LPP were applied to the colored hair 10 times with 2 days interval for 20 days. The hair cuticles were observed by a scanning electron micro scopy before and after coloring and conditioner treatment. The main results were as follows. Coloring treatment damaged the hair cuticles, and both of Essence and LPP had a direct conditioning effect. Also, the damaged hair cuticles were recovered by the repeated application of hair conditioner. Moreover, LPP was more effective in hair curing compared to Essence. These results show that a hair conditioner can be helpful to keep healthy hair and to shorten an interval of coloring.

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국내 패션의류업계의 활용 색채전달도구 개발을 위한 색채 연구 (Characteristics of Colors and Color Communication tools applied in the Korean Fashion Industry)

  • 김영인;조민정
    • 복식
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    • 제50권4호
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    • pp.53-61
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to classify the characteristics of color communication tools and the color range applied in the Korean fashion industry. To collect the color sample and related references, a questionnaire was distributed during the time period, December, 1995 to June, 1996. From the responses, 2641 color samples used by 109 domestic brands, from 1993 spring/summer to 1996 spring/summer, were collected and analyzed. The data was measured by L*a*b*, and the H V/C formula found in the Munsell notation was used to calculate the data. To classify the color range served for the fashion industry, the distribution of colors are analyzed by difference of season and fabric. The results of this study are as follows : 1. Dominant colors in the Korean fashion industry are Red, Yellow-red, Yellow, purple-blue and low chromatic range colors. 2. While high value colors, such as pale, light greyish, light, dull, dark and vivid tone colors, are dominant in the spring/summer season, low value colors, such as greyish, dark greyish. and deep tone colors and warm colors such as Red, Yellow-red, are prevalent in the fall/winter season. 3. The number of colors commonly used for color planning is less than 20 colors, and both hue and tone are considered important when making color selections. 4. All brands take consumers' color preferences into consideration for color planning, and most of them also take color trends into account. 5. Hue and tone color characteristics analyzed by types of fabrics show more seasonal influence than the fabric itself.

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환경온도 -10℃에서 Clo값에 따른 인체 생리반응 및 주관적 감각 (Physiological Responses and Subjective Sensations by Clo Values at -10℃)

  • 김지연;송민규;김희은
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제12권4호
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    • pp.531-537
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to review physiological responses and subjective sensations in the cold environment when the subjects wore ensemble with different clo values. Seven healthy male subjects participated in this experiment. This experiment was conducted in a climatic chamber with $-10^sC$ and 50%RH. Subjects wore five different kinds of ensemble[C1 (4.453 clo), C2 (3.452 clo), C3 (2.865 clo), C4 (2.387 clo), and C5 (2.280 clo)]. The experiment was composed of 20 min of rest period, 20min of treadmill exercise(6 km/h) period, 30 min of recovery period. We monitored skin temperature on 7 sites, clothing microclimate and subjective sensations. The clo value had positive correlations with mean skin temperature and clothing microclimate. The subjects feel more warm and humid as the clo value goes up. The subjects reported comfort when they wore C1 and C2 ensemble having over 3 clo value. However, they felt less comfortable during the exercise period since there was high humidity. Skin temperature on the extremities were more dramatically changed by the exercise rather than clo value. Thus it seems that in the cold environment, heat balance can mostly be controlled by the choice of clothing, and the clothes with high clo values can provide higher insulation. In conclusion, our findings suggest that it would be more effective to control clo value depending on the activity level for maintaining comfort level in the cold environment.

LM 난연사를 이용한 자동차 시트용 직물설계 (Fabrication design of car seat using LM flame retardant fiber)

  • 안영무
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제15권4호
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    • pp.110-121
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    • 2011
  • As car seat is the closest part between driver and rider, the interest of the security and comfort of the seat is increasing. This research discovered the best condition for dyeing and finishing to produce a fabric for car seat and also developed the design of fabrication to give the feeling from such a finishing. The best condition of coating finishing solution is aqueous PU 65%, dye resist reagent 20%, water 12%, thicker 3%, and knife thickness 2mm, tenter temperature $170^{\circ}C$, tenter speed 35yard/min, viscosity 12,000cps and stirring time 100kg * 30min. According to the processing time of knife coating upon stirring the change of resin and the uneven of coating quantity was shown. This problems will be solved by means of automatic temperature control apparatus for resin and sealing device through a coming research.

온돌 수면환경이 인체의 온열생리반응에 미치는 영향 (Effects of Ondol Sleep Environment on the Thermo-physiological Response of the Human Body)

  • 김정숙;성수광
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제1권2호
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    • pp.173-181
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    • 1999
  • 한국의 청실양식은 84.9%가 요와 이불을 사용하여 온돌의 방바닥에 누워 자는 형식이다. 이에 본 연구는 온돌 난방 주택에서의 수연환경의 실태를 파악하기 위하여 온돌침실의 온열환경, 침상기후, 수면시 생리반응을 각 가정의 일상생활 중에서 직접 측정하여 계절별, 주택형태별에 따른 수면환경의 차이를 분석하였다. 그 결과, 계절 및 주택형태별에 따른 수면환경의 큰 온도차이에도 불구하고 수면 중 인체와 접촉하는 이불 밑과 요 시트의 침상온도는 계절과 주택형태에 관계없이 연평균 $30.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$로 쾌적한 침상 내 온도를 나타내었을 뿐만 아니라 수면 중 직장온도도 연평균 $36.8^{\circ}C$로 계절 및 주택형태에 따른 유의한 차이는 인정되지 않았다. 그러나 침실환경에 대한 주관적 온열감각은 주택형태에 따라 유의한 차이를 나타내어 침실의 온열 중성점이 아파트 $25.9^{\circ}C$, 단독주택 $20.3^{\circ}C$로 아파트가 단독주택보다 $5.6^{\circ}C$ 높게 나타났다. 이는 건물의 구조가 주택은 조적조의 구조인 반면 아파트는 철근콘크리트의 구조로 우수한 단열력을 가지므로 외기온의 영향을 받기 어려워 높은 실내온도를 유지하였기 때문이다. 뿐만 아니라 거주자들이 주택 내 환경에 적응되어진 결과라고도 할 수 있겠으나 아파트 거주자의 측면에서는 온열환경에 대한 에너지 절약, 건강 유지 등의 관점에서 보다 효율적인 난방을 위한 쾌적한 생활온도 설정을 재고할 필요가 있다고 하겠다.

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Thermophysiological Responses to the Alternation of Exercise and Rest at $20^{\circ}C$ when Wearing Underwear made of Cotton or Wool

  • Park Shin-Jung;Chang Jee-Hye;Tokura Hiromi
    • International Journal of Human Ecology
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    • 제6권2호
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of two kinds of underwear material on subjects exercising and resting in an ambient temperature of $20^{\circ}C$, a relative humidity of 60% and an air velocity of 0.13m $see^{-1}$. Two kinds of underwear ensemble were tested, differing in their hygroscopic properties: 100% wool (W) with higher moisture regain and 100% cotton (C) with lower moisture regain. Five young females served as subjects. The experiments comprised two repeated periods of 15 min exercise on a treadmill with a speed of 6km $h^{-1}$ followed by 10 min rest. The main results were as follows: 1) Mean skin temperature was significantly higher in W than in C throughout the whole experimental period (p<0.05). 2) The temperature and humidity of the microclimate between the skin and underwear provided by the first layer of clothing was higher in W than in C (p<0.1 and p<0.05, for temperature and humidity, respectively). 3) Heart rate was significantly higher in W than in C (p<0.05). 4) Subjects felt warmer during the second exercise session when wearing wool rather than cotton (p<0.05), and they also reported more increased wetness during the second exercise and rest periods in W than in C (p<0.05). These results suggest that underwear made of wool with higher moisture regain might not act as effectively as cotton to transfer exercise-induced heat from the body to the surrounding air when light exercise is taken in a thermally-neutral environment.

환경온도에 따른 착의 생리반응과 주관적 감각의 연령별 비교 (Physiological Responses and Subjective Sensations by Age through Seasonal Condition)

  • 이정숙;송민규;김희은
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제11권5호
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    • pp.833-839
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    • 2009
  • This study was to investigate the human's physiological responses and subjective sensations with wear trial through seasonal condition by age. Climate chamber was set $5^{\circ}C$, RH 45% for winter and $30^{\circ}C$, RH 65% for summer condition. Thirty male subjects were volunteered consisted of 10 people in their 20s, 40s, and 60s. In this study physiological responses such as rectal temperature, skin temperature, clothing microclimate, heart rate and blood pressure were measured. As for age, 60s was the highest in rectal temperature regardless of seasonal condition. In skin temperature, 40s was the highest in winter and 20s was the highest in summer. In clothing microclimate temperature and heart rate, 20s was the highest regardless of seasonal condition. And blood pressure was appeared the highest in 20s regardless of seasonal condition. Subjective sensations such as temperature sensation, wetness sensation and thermal comfort were measured. The subjects revealed that temperature sensation was higher 20s than 60s. Compare of other age group, 60s felt colder in the same environment and clothing. It suggested that temperature susceptibility in 60s became weakened showing no change sensation during the cold exposure. Wetness sensation was higher 20s than 60s. Thermal comfort of 60s was felt more discomfortable than any other age group. This means require the supplement of a suitable clothing in order to adjust to change of environmental conditions.

시판 세제를 사용하여 세척 조건에 따른 인공오염포의 세척성 (The Soil Removal of Artificially Soiled Fabrics with Commercial Detergents at Various Washing Conditions)

  • 정혜원;김미경
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제9권6호
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    • pp.671-678
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    • 2007
  • Formulations of compact and supercompact heavy-duty detergents, which are being used widely around the world, differ from those of conventional heavy-duty detergents. Significant differences in composition exist between the compact detergents and the conventional detergents. The compact detergents have a higher content of surfactants, oxygen bleach and enzymes than the conventional detergents. We have studied to find the most effective washing conditions of artificially soiled cloths with a commercial, supercompact, heavy-duty detergent and a drum type washing machine which is becoming the preferred type in Korea. Moreover, we have studied the washing performance with an impeller type washing machine, which has heretofore been the most popular type in East Asia. With the drum-type washing machine, washing performances improved as the washing temperatures went up and the washing times were lengthened. Though the rate of soil removal with a double recommended dosage was higher than with the recommended amount at $20^{\circ}C$, the effects of the higher dosage decreased as the washing temperatures increased. Finally, the washing performances with the two different dosages were the same at $60^{\circ}C$. The washing performances at $40^{\circ}C$ with the recommended dosage for 90 minutes were the same as with the double recommended dosage for 45 minutes. The soil removal efficiencies with the impeller-type washing machine were much lower than those of the drum-type washing machine. The reasons for this were the higher bath ratio that led to the lower concentration of wash liquor, the shorter washing time, and the lower washing temperature.