• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2015

This study investigates if the relationships between hemline and macro-economic factors (rGDP, recession, and unemployment) are still applicable as well as analyzes time lags that reflect economic factors on the hemline index using U.S. data. The hemline theory and fashion cyclical theory were applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the hemline measurements of women's day-wear were obtained from US Vogue spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. Data were standardized by dividing the length from shoulder to hemline by the length from the shoulder to ankle. I aggregated 2260 samples and hemline data to create a yearly average. This study used OLS of Stata 13 program to explore the relationship between macro-economic factors and hemline. The main findings were the recession and unemployment influenced hemline length for four years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of previous recession and unemployment on the current hemline were very close to the significant level respectively. This finding supports the hemline theory in that a recessionary economy is related to longer hemlines and hemlines become shorter in flourishing economic periods.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.67-76
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• 2011

This study had two goals: 1) to explore generational differences in traditional family rituals and 2) to investigate the association between family values and family rituals. Using survey data from 500 married men and women in their 20s to 60s, we classified three generations: 1) 1941-1950 birth cohort (aged 59-68), 2) 1951-1970 birth cohort (aged 39-58), and 3) 1971 and later cohort (aged 38 or less). These generations represented post-colonialism, modernization, and the information era in Korea, respectively. The results demonstrated that birth-related traditional family rituals had been maintained across the generations. Ancestor worship was less likely to be observed by later generations. Further, the way in which family values was associated with family rituals differed across the generations, indicating that traditional family values had different influences on everyday family life culture across generations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.330-338
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• 1989

The Korean apparel manufacturing industry started to meet domestic demands which had depended on importation in 1950s, growing into one of the export-oriented industries with several Five-Year Economic Development Plans. In spite of the development, inefficient organization of distribution of apparel manufacturing industry which connects production with consumption impedes further development of the industry. This study aims at suggesting desirable distribution system of ladies' apparel, the core of the fashion industry. This researcher interviewed those who are concerned in twenty-eight ladies' apparel manufacturing compaines, analyzing the current state of distribution in the industry and the problems. The results are as follows; 1. Forty-five percent of ladies' apparel is distributed through department stores. Therefore, the department stores need to assume their roles in sales and try to improve the condition and to train professional buyers. 2. The sales network is concentrated on the five biggest cities such as Seoul, Pusan, Taegu, Taechon, and Kwangju, prompting the need to be diversified. 3, Tke existing distribution forms distribution systems have many irrational factors which are aggravnting the rate of goods in stock. 4. The manufacturing companies do not implement studies on distribution. The companies should try to establish clear concepts on production and distribution on their own for better planning skills. 5. Computerized systems need to manage the procedures ranging from ordering, distribution, sales to inventory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.86-100
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• 2015

This study is to investigate the relationships between heel height and macro-economic factors - recession and unemployment; and to analyze the time lags reflecting economic factors on heel height index using U.S. data. The life-history evolution theory was applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the heel height measurements of women's shoes - pump style only - were obtained from US Vogue fashion editorial sections on spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. I divided the heel height by the length of the shoes in order to standardize the data. Total of 1581 samples were used, and heel height data were aggregated to create a yearly average. To explore the relationships between macro-economic factors and heel height, this study used OLS of Stata 13 program. The main findings show that unemployment rates influenced heel height for three years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of unemployment rate from two years ago on the current heel height were very close to being on a significant level.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.1 s.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 2004

The purpose of this Study is to provide basic data for the development of the beauty industry to meet its increased demand and liberated world markets more properly by analyzing the change of beauty environment by ages. For the Study, the literature and articles of costume and beauty, periodicals of beauty companies, and internet data were referred to review and analyze changing proceeds of beauty industries from the 1900 to the present by ages. The findings of the Study are as follows: We had the first barber shop and hairdressing salon in 1901 and 1920, respectively, after the Danbal Ryeong(A Crop Ordinance); modern education for women and active social movements resulted in change of hair styles; permanent wave tools and chemicals began to be used in the 1930s; and more people started to visit hairdressing salons after 1950s. In turn change of hair styles promoted the development of beauty technologies and the diversity of beauty tools and products. Now up-to-date instrument and products for the health of hair are developed, hairdresser provide kinder service for their customers and adjust their floor space accordingly, and, as shown in five-day workweek, are making their endeavors to improve wellbeing of their employees.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Rural Architecture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.9-15
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• 2014

Pungsu acts as a strong guideline for selecting a location of the village having a certain geographical condition. The attitude of choosing an auspicious site regarding the shape of mountains and water stream, is widely accepted by the intelligent class of Josen period. Therefore, the theory is one of the main factor influenced on the traditional village and house in Korea. Regarding the fact that a real effect of pungsu on the formation of traditional village and house, Study with a view of Pungsu theory could be a good method for deeply understanding the traditional architecture in Korea. In this context, the study analyzes the site and space lay out of an upper class house of vice minister Lee(Lee, Jung Ryul, 1868~1950) in Oeam historic village with Pungsu theory. The house is composed of Anchae(house for the women) and Sanrangchae(house for the men and receiving guests) and Hangrangchae(servants' quarters). Through the study, It finds out that the house is carefully selected and planned considering surrounding physical environment so called Jusan(back hill), Ansan(front hill), Choengyong(blue dragon) and Beckho(white tiger) of Pungsu theory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.154-164
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.65-72
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• 1992

Annual changes of nutrient intakes of Koreans and Japanese were compared on the basis of the data from the National Nutrition Survey which has been carried out annually in Korea (1969-1988) and in Japan (1950-1988) for the guide of the future food and nutrition policy. Intakes of all nutrients except carbohydrate and protein by Koreans were lower than those of Japanese in 1988. The intake of lipid by Koreans was less than one half of the intake by Japanese. The intake of protein has been increased to 79.2g in Korea and 91.6g in Japan, of which 49% and 52.6% were provided by the animal sources in Korea and Japan, respectively, in 1988. In terms of consumption of the energy nutrients, the percentage of carbohydrate has been decreased, while those of protein and lipid have been increased in both countries. In 1988, the ratios of energy intakes by carbohydrate, protein and lipid were 67 : 19 : 14 in Korea and 59 : 15 : 26 in Japan. Considering the desired ratio, 65 : 15 : 20, the intake of carbohydrate seems to be still high and that of lipid still low for Koreans. The food supply has been increased in both countries and the supply of animal food, oil and fat were greater in Japan than in Korea.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.