• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.159-173
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• 2002

The subject of the paper is for the study about the implication and the changes of design and functions in the underwear by the change of the times from late 19c until present time. Researching on documents and magazine's articles, and interviewing with women older than 60s is used for the period of previous 1960s. researching on documents, advertising, newspaper, and interviewing with the persons concerned is used for the period of after 1960s. Analysis showed periodical change in underwear is divided into that the changes of the time is divided into 1890-1950 start to Westernization in underwear, 1957-1969 Ready made in underwear. 1950-1969 Variety in underwear, 1980-1989 Fashioning, functioning in underwear, 1990-present Withdrawing from fundamental notion in underwear. The time of 1890-l950 showed the biggest change in an external form in underwear. In 1950-1969, notions of beauty in underwear ultimately swatch from Oriental sense to Western sense, In 70s, underwear achieved the early stage of fashioning. In 80s, Underwear became one of fashion item. In 90s, underwear achieved higher quality and variety. The basic notion of underwear was destroyed by exposing underwear.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.604-615
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• 2015

The objectives of this study were to investigate whether heel height changes in the U.S. market occur in a cyclical pattern and heel heights show greater within-year variability over time. Heel height data from U.S. Vogue's spring and fall editions were analyzed over the time period 1950~2014. A total of 1581 pieces of data were measured in millimeter units using Adobe Illustrator and standardized by dividing the height of the heel by the shoe length through the curved sole line. To analyze the cycle pattern of heel heights, the yearly averages were standardized by using three-year moving average technique to average out the irregular components of time series data and give a better indication of the long-term fluctuation of heel height. To identify the degree of within-year variability of heel height, the standard deviation of the average measurements for a year was calculated, and then decade averages were drawn from the yearly averaged standard deviation. One-way ANOVA was conducted to compare the within-year variability of data in heel height over the time period studied by decade. The results showed: First, there was a trend toward higher heels from the early 1950s to 2011. Second, four cyclical movements of heel height were observed from 1950 to 2007, and heel heights gradually decreased after 2008. Third, the within-year variability significantly increased over time, especially after the 1980s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• The Journal of Sustainable Design and Educational Environment Research
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.40-53
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• 2006

Recently, women's social activities in our society have been greatly increased and legal system and mechanism of social structure to pursue a society where gender equality shall be realized has been discussed lively in a detail manner. Nevertheless, the rate of social advancement of Korean women shows much lower than that of the western industrialized countries. The aim of this study is to examine such problem and to look for a solution thereof. As the subject for this survey, such social welfare facility as women's hall was selected, and then its state of facilities was investigated. The results from this survey revealed that women's hall, which had been started constructing since 1950s, began to spread out nationwide reaching the 1990s, and that women's hall was greatly used as a major public facility that supports women's social activities in each region, and that women's hall, which had been started as a social welfare facility, was a multifunctional facility performing functions such as welfare, education, culture and community, and that educational function among these had been changed a little by little in the aspect of contents and purpose according to the changes of times, however, education for women was treated as a major important function in the women's hall and operated accordingly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.219-230
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• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.86-96
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• 2014

This study content analyzed the comedic events that include mothers to explore a typology of humor and representation of women in family sitcoms over the last decades. The study found that slapstick has been the most prevalent humor type over time. The study also found that romantic and sexual topics were common themes in family situation comedies over the last decades. The study confirmed an increasing pattern for foolishness in terms of the portrayals of sitcom mothers. The result also substantiated the tendentious nature of humor involved in sitcom mothers. Based on the findings, limitations and further research are discussed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.77-84
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to know on the changes characteristics of eye brow forms of the wester women. A facial image which people recognize contents on changes of image according to various eye brow changes on the face. Various changes of image were seen by length, angle and thickness of eye brow types. The ancient Egyptians used antimony powder to blacken their brows huge black lines. In medieval times, women shaved both their eye brows and their hairlines to give a pure look. The early nineteenth century, brows were untweezed and natural. In the 1920s, when women started paying attention to their faces and their freedom, brows were tweezed, narrowed. In the 1930s, the idealized faces of Jean Harlow, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo - narrow tracery of drawn on brows. The eyebrows is filled various shape of the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Disco Decade of Dreadful tastes, women were at their tweezers again, manicuring their brows. Brooke Shields's natural-looking brow would be an example of the 1980s. In the 1990s, the eyebrow designed by superstar makeup artists who determined the look of fashion model and screen star.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.195-204
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• 2012

Since WWII and the Korean War, Korean modern fashion has been americanized by claiming, displacing with, and fusing with the traits of American fashion. The purpose of this study is to observe and analyze the traits of Americanization in Korean fashion, focusing on the designs of Nora Noh fashion from the 1950s to the 1980s. Nora Noh (1928- ), one of the first Korean fashion designers, who launched the first fashion show in 1956, introduced ready-made dresses to Korean fashion industry in 1963 for the first time, and later in the 1970s and the 1980s, exported Korean-made fashions to the U.S. market. For such purpose, this study first provides the theoretical backgrounds of Americanization in Korean fashion history and then conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials. In case of Nora Noh fashion, the traits of Americanization can be defined as functionality, popularity, and hybrid. (1)Functionality in Americanized Korean fashion was expressed through simplicity, practicality, and usefulness. Noh's "homewear" style and exported silk dresses are the examples of the functionality. (2)Popularity was shown in kitsch images of materialistic and consumer culture. It was expressed in ready-made dresses and trendy styles of mini skrits and bell-bottom pants. (3)Hybrids of various multi-culture exist in American culture and fashion. In Noh's designs, traditional materials and the print patterns inspired from traditional motifs were used to add Korean nuances in Americanized fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.4
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• pp.34-48
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• 1997

Dresses of the 1950s and 60s when the range and changes of fashion were wide and heavy were closely related with various styles of that time's architecture from the form, use of material, structure to the color. In this, study, characteristics of formalism and brutalism, main architectural streams of that period, such as line, structure, function, material, texture and color are analyzed in detail and these characteristics and those of dress are compared and analyzed to see if there are common aesthetic senses between them. It is particularly noteworthy that at that time formalistic architecture represented joy and abundance through enriched creation of appearance and flowing, symbolic linear beauty while the brutalistic produced young and vivid liveliness through functional, reasonable and moderate beauty, and this young and joyful atmosphere coincided exactly with frank, lively aesthetic senses of the young generation's fashion. Therefore, we can see common significance in the following fact ; architectural modes and fashion art of the 1950s and 60s were the result of more humane and enriched expressions from economical growth, and also product of that time's desire to adapt itself realistically to the rapid, complicated pop culture resulted from mass production.