• Title/Summary/Keyword: 18th century(18世紀)

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The Influences of Salon Culture on Fashion from the 17th to 18th Century (17~18세기 살롱(Salon) 문화가 패션에 미친 영향)

  • 김은하;정흥숙;김선화
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.123-135
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    • 2002
  • The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

A Study on the Characteristics of Planning of Hwa-sung from the Point of Water System (수체계로 본 수원화성 건설의 계획적 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kang, In-Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.137-147
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    • 2011
  • This study aims to find out the construction process and planning characteristics of Suwon and Hwa-sung in 18th century from the point of water system. This study has an explanatory approach. The planning intents in the water system was driven out by analyzing various planning elements in relation to water system in the process of constructing Hwa-sung in 18th century. Using Entire Map of Hwa-sung, land registration map made in 1911 and topographic map of 1/10,000 scale made in 1917, water system and interpretation of spatial structure in Hwa-sung were analyzed. The results are as follows(Planning characteristics of the water system in Haw-sung in 18th century are as follows). Firstly, in determining the spatial structure and location of Hwa-sung, water system had an important role. Secondly, integrated drainage system was planned by the organization of natural and artificial water stream. Thirdly, the main street system and land use structure were planned in relation with water system. Fourthly, territoriality of main area was planned with water stream. Fifthly, ponds were constructed for flood control and they had important role as landscape elements. Sixthly, water stream was used as intentional BiBo element. As a result of the study, the weater system of Hwa-sung in 18th century was planned by the organization of natural and artificial water stream in relation with the location of new town and wide area's spatial structure, street system, land use structure, territoriality of main area, terriflood control, water quality protection, landscape, 비보 and urban daily life.

A Study on the Design and Pattern Applying Men's Coat of 18th and 19th Century (18, 19세기 남성 코트를 응용한 디자인과 패턴 연구)

  • An, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.145-157
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

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A Study of fertilization System in the 18th Century (18세기 시비법(施肥法)의 연구(硏究))

  • Seok, Tea Moon;Lee, Ho Chol
    • Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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    • v.5
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    • pp.205-220
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    • 1987
  • The objective of this study is to examine the structure and transition of fertilization system in the 18th century. Especially, on the basis of this analysis, We can find the development of agricultural productivity in Chosun Dynasty. The improvement of fertilization method in the 18 century is found from all items -i,e-the time and object for fertilization, change of the concept in individual fertilizers. The transportation and the double - cropping of rice and barley in a paddy field had accomplished the improvement of fertilization method. Then, the development of agricultural productivity in a guarantee of higher fertilization method contributed directly to realize the consciousness of peasant's landownership.

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A Study on the Excavated Clothes of Lady Shim Cheongsong in Jecheon (제천출토 청송심씨(1753~1810) 출토유물)

  • Chang, In-Woo;Park, Bong-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.2
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    • pp.150-162
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    • 2014
  • This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

A Diachronic Study of Japanese Dakuon - through the Analysis of Korean Source-Materials in the 15-18th Centuries - (일본어 탁음의 비음성의 변천 과정 - 15-18세기의 일본어 전사 자료를 이용하여 -)

  • Jin Nam-Taek
    • MALSORI
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    • no.48
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    • pp.35-55
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    • 2003
  • The aim of this study is to clarify the process of the sound changes of Japanese consonants (Dakuons) in the analysis of the transcriptions of Korean Source-Materials (i.e. Japanese textbooks for Korean and the records of travel in Japan) written in the 15-l8th centuries with the Korean writing system. Especially these records of travel in Japan are meaningful in that the process of change of Dakuon is shown in detail. The results are as follows. 1) In the 15th century, all Dakuons /g d z b/ had nasality. 2) The nasality of /z/ and /b/ disappeared in the 16th century. 3) The nasality of /d/ disappeared in the late 17th century.

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A Study on the Headgear in the Painting of Tongshinsa Parade in 1711 (신묘사행(辛卯使行) "도중행렬도(道中行列圖)"에 나타난 통신사 편복 관모 연구)

  • Park, Sun-Hee;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.3
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    • pp.71-82
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    • 2011
  • This study set out to investigate the identity of everyday headgear, which is often found in many paintings of Tongshinsa, Joseon diplomatic missions to Japan, in the 18th century. That resembles Yu-geon儒巾, but on the top of the headgear are lappets like a roof. The study proceeded as follows: 1) The painting of Tongshjnsa parade in 1711 was used to analyze wearers of everyday headgear because titles of position are shown for each one. 2) Personal records of Tongshinsa in the 18th century were analyzed to examine the cases of everyday headgear. 3) Cases of everyday headgear in literature around the 18th century were examined. Those researches revealed three findings: 1) The names of everyday headgear with a roof shaped top are Gohu-gwan高厚冠 and Yeonyeop-gwan蓮葉冠. 2) Among Tongshinsa, wearers of Gohu-gwan or Yeonyeop-gwan are medical staff, interpreters, painters, and secretaries. However, it doesn't seem to have been distinction between the two types according to social class and position. 3) People wore everyday headgear, that resembled the two types in appearance, such as Mjnja-geon民字巾, Sunyang-geon純陽巾, Hwayang-geon華陽巾, Jeon-geon戰巾, or Jang-geon將巾 in China and Joseon around the 18th century. Among them, Sunyang-geon and Hwayang-geon seem to have had the closest relationship with Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan in terms of shape and character of wearers. The analysis of the research findings led to the two following conclusions: 1) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan were worn as one of everyday headgear to represent appearances of a scholar. 2) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan could be changed versions of the similar everyday headgear or different names of them.

A study on characteristics of the architectural debate of the eighteenth-century analyzed through $\lceil$Parere su Architettura$\rfloor$ of Piranesi (피라네시의 "건축에 관한 대화"를 통하여 본 18세기 건축 논쟁의 성격에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Sung-Yong;Choi, Jin-Hee
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.15 no.6 s.59
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    • pp.27-34
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    • 2006
  • This paper present a study on the $\lceil$Parere su Architettura$\rfloor$ of Piranesi published in 1765. In the 18th century, there were fundamental cultural and social changes in Europe. This paper intends to discover the influences of these changes on the field of architectural theory, and it also intends to reveal its characteristics and meanings. The $\lceil$Parere su Architettura$\rfloor$ of Piranesi was composed as a dialogue between two architects, named Didascalo and Protopiro. In this paper, Didascalo represent the Master and Protopiro the Novice(according to the translation of Kaufmann). On the artistic theory of the Enlightenment, Didascalo proclaims as a dogma. Then he inveighs against the rigorists, using strong language quite up the attacks of the Novice. The modernistic Protopiro assails every kind of embellishment. The dialogue non only helps us to understand Piranesi, but also reflects the artistic situation in the 18th century. The summary of the result of this study is as follows: 1. The book of Piranesi represents a controversy of the romanticism against the architectural rationalism. 2. The negation of the originality of the Roman architecture has been considered as the negation of the Baroque architecture that was the artistic base af Piranesi. 3. Piranesi had ideological intention to defend the hegemony of the Italian culture through strengthening of the Etruria-Roman-Baroque cultural tradition.

A Study on Women's Costume in the Period of Late 18th Century (18세기 후기 프랑스 여자복식에 관한 고찰)

  • Cho Ok-Ryae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.97-104
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    • 1986
  • The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. In the 18th century the mode of the women's costume in France was greatly influenced by the Rococo style. Elegance and exaggerated ornaments were the major characteristics of the woman's cos-tume in the Rococo period. The high hairdress and the widely hooped panier represented the typical Rococo fashion. From the second half of the 18th century onwards the aristocracy began to lose the battle with the bourgeoisie for political and economic power, and at the same time bourgeoisie fashion exerted an influence on court dress. The court fashion dominated the women's dress fashion in France up to the Revolution. Marie Antoinette, The Queen of Louis XVI, was one of the most influential fashion leaders in the lath century. The fashion, after attaining its highest point in 1770s, changed to a new direction in 1780s under Louis XVI. From that period onward the dimensions were smaller, hairdresses were not so high, and the trimming on the various garments was less liberal. In the mode, exaggeration was replaced by simplicity, and formality was replaced by functionalism.

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