• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 2018

As a result of reviewing various documents and existing researches, since the late Goryeo period, the most active period in the Ondol(溫突, Korean floor heating system) facilities is the 17th century. The phenomenological reason was recovering the buildings destroyed by the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592(壬辰倭亂) & the Manchu War of 1636(丙子胡亂), but the underlying cause was an abnormal climate in which a pair of summer and winter cold continued. In the 17th century, as the Ondol facilities grew rapidly without distinction between regions and classes, the supply and demand of fuel caused economic and natural environmental problems. And a negative and positive view on Ondol was suggested. Since the middle of the 18th century, when the demand and supply of Ondol reached its peak, which could no longer increase, a new awareness of Ondol began to grow. The room was called the Panbang(板房) and the Ondol, depending on the material that made up the floor. It was considered natural to have the Ondol from this time on. The Incan(因間) and Jo(竈) that were made to burn were started to be recorded as a kitchen, regardless of size and function. Changes in social awareness of Ondol have led to concerns about heating efficiency. A variety of architectural explorations were conducted. Such a search was later realized in concrete architectural form. There is a double Ondoll structure, and the column spacing is reduced compared to the previous one. The heat buffer space is formed around the Ondol room, and the double window can control the light and the air going in and out.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.145-158
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• 2002

The so-called 'Bustle'which was a support put on waist to heave the side the buttocks means the grandiloquent style to express to ideal body. Bustle style. one of the outstanding and remarkable fashion trends in the late 20th century, has significant meaning in fashion history. This is because not only the style has the longest history, but also it has been periodically repeated every end of a century from the 17th to the 20th century. To analyse to cause the Bustle style was shown, I studied first the sign of forthcoming activity of the Bustle style, the change of the Bustle style shown In the times at the end of century and feature of the Bustle style. Based on the previous reasons of appearance of the Bustle style In the history. there are two similarities. First. reaction led to an occurrence of the reactionary tendency, the Bustle style as they were eager for the past because of a feeling of uneasiness about a coming century. Second, the principle of retrogression led to an occurrence of the Bustle style craving for new style. This Bustle style welch was reaction from being tired of the former fashion appeared to expression a desire for new style. In short, Bustle style was an intermediation between different histories and the basis for continuous development of new eras. rather than lust a part of classicism.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2014

The First bentwood chairs in the world, called "winsor chairs" were made by British craftsman in the 17th century. Since then, from the start of NO.14 using solid bentwood by 19th-century German Michael Thonet, furniture making techniques such as Bent knee, Y-leg, X-leg- were developed based on Llaminated bentwood made by Alvar Aalto of Finland in the 20th century. In the 20th century Charles Eames of the United States studied Molded plywood, using plywood to produce a variety of furniture and during the 17~20 century a variety of Bentwood were developed. Coming into the 21st century, American Matthias Pliessnig and Phil Seaton worked with past Bentwood designs, developing Bentwood further by adapting Bentwood's know-how and IT technology. Science and technology evolved and Reholz of Germany developed technology which can mold three-dimensional wood using a new matarial called 3D-veneer, In the past only plastic or metal could be moulded 3 dimensional but now beautiful wood grain patterns can be molded by utilizing this technology. Also this is comparable with the past two-dimensional molding technology. In this Sustainable Design techniauses era, Bentwood fused with IT technology has great potential as a high-tech and eco-friendly techniche.

• Journal of International Area Studies (JIAS)
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.345-368
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• 2009

Our research task have goal to describe a treaty rhetoric known as 『La Rhétorique ou L'Art de Parler』(1688) which corresponds to a very wide field of which the step is not yet dubious in our country. Thus to study the rhetoric of Lamy borrowed from the thought of Descartes, we left the concept d' origin of language in traditional rhetoric in connection with logic and grammar (in first part). Also the second part is devoted to the tropes and the figures that are modified and deteriorated by the language of passion called 'rhetoric of passion or psychological of figure', etc. And the third part interests in the body of the speech being the character of l' heart. Under the influence of the rhetoric of Lamy, French rhetoric at the 17th century is held for an essential text when one interests in the history of the ideas and rhetoric, marked in its specificity (passion). The project of Lamy registered in the concept of passion like 'manners of speaking'. To close this study, which does one have to retain? The first remark to note is that Lamy founds his rhetoric in opposition to traditional designs dating from the beginning of Aristote. Second remark is the idea that one finds based in famous the books of Dumarsais at the 18th century and Fontanier at the 19th century. Admittedly, Lamy is a true rhetorician, grammairien which interests in the question of passions in the speech forces to reconsider the idea spread since Mr. Foucault, and makes it possible to understand the passage of the Great century at the Century of Lumuères. Even if this opinion is not shared, it will be agreed that the work of Lamy on passions or the phenomena sensory and psychological in the center of the language deserves reflexion.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.44
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• pp.197-236
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• 2016

The aim of this study is to discover the distinctive aspects of Sijo in the 17th Century through five old music scores, "梁琴新譜Yangqeumsinbo", "白雲庵琴譜 baekwoonamgeumbo", "增補古琴譜jeungbogogeumbo", "延世大學校所藏琴譜geumbo in Yonsei University", "琴譜古geumbogo", which were compiled in this time period. First, four Sijo works are found from the "梁琴新譜Yangqeumsinbo" and one of them is noteworthy because it was sung as 中大葉Jungdaeyeop, 初中大葉 Chojungdaeyeop, 二中大葉Yijungdaeyeop and showed signs to fit the Sijo format type since the 17th century. In "白雲庵琴譜baekwoonamgeumbo", there are three Sijo works (one has recorded music scores and two don't) and one of them is discovered with last phrase being omitted. In "延世大學校所藏琴譜geumbo in Yonsei University", there are 9 Sijo works performed with 中大葉Jungdaeyeop. In "增補古琴譜 jeungbogogeumbo", there are three works performed with 數大葉Sakdaeyeop and one of them is noteworthy as a clue about the relations between Sijo and Goryeosokyo because it is a modified work which adapted the Goryeosokyo "Gasiri" according to the Sijo format. In 琴譜古geumbogo, there are three works with high possibility that repertoire with 中大葉Jungdaeyeop were already set up at this time. Based on these five music scores, it can be mentioned that a lot of Geumbos were compiled in 17th century, not for the purpose of enlightening discourse at the national level but for referencing for music lovers by themselves to memorize songs individually. It is also discovered that Sijo was performed with only 平調pyeong-jo out of 羽調woo-jo, 羽調界面調woojokyemyen-jo, 平調pyeong-jo, 平調界面調pyeongjokyemyun-jo in early 17th century, but it was performed with other three and 數大葉Sakdaeyeop as well after the mid-17th century. On the other hand, despite the change in the musical tunes, lyrics do not show a significant change at this time because it is estimated repertoire with specific piece of music was already formed in 17th Century. However, performing itself would give a certain impact on change and loss of lyrics because it tends to focus on communication and emotional connection between singers and audience. Clarifying characteristics in Sijo from old music scores is meaningful in that Sijo can be understood better not only as written poetry but also as oral poetry and overcome bias of previous researches which have been proceeded mainly on Sijo lyrics collection(歌集).

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.44-46
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.