• Title/Summary/Keyword: 12th Century

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Ballet Costume of 15C-19C (15세기-19세기 발레 의상)

  • Lee, Hee-hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.105-119
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    • 2010
  • The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

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A Study on Some Problems and the Need for Reform of the Rule of Warranty in English Law of Marine Insurance (영국 해상보험법 상 담보법원칙의 문제점 및 개혁 필요성)

  • Shin, Gun-Hoon
    • THE INTERNATIONAL COMMERCE & LAW REVIEW
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    • v.43
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    • pp.239-273
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    • 2009
  • Marine insurance contracts, which intended to provide indemnity against marine risks upon the payment of a premium, originated in Northern Italy in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The law and practice of Italian merchants were later introduced into England through Lombard merchants. It is, therefore, quite exact that English and Continental marine insurance law have common root. Nevertheless, some significant divergences between English and Continental marine insurance systems occurred since the late 17th century, mainly due to different approaches adopted by English courts. The rule of warranty in English marine insurance was established in the second part of the 18th century by Lord Mansfield, who laid the foundations of the modern English law of marine insurance and developed different approaches, especially in the field of warranty in marine insurance law. Since the age of Lord Mansfield, English marine insurance law has developed a unique rule on warranty. Bearing in mind the realities of the 18th century, it could easily be understood why Lord Mansfield afforded such a strict legal character to marine warranties. At that time, the 'promise' given by the assured, played an important role for the insurer to assess the scope of the risk. Legal environments, however, have changed dramatically since the times of Lord Mansfield. Of course, it is still important that the assured keep his promises to the insurer under the insurance contract, which is based upon utmost good faith. Nevertheless, the remedy of automatic discharge from liability, regardless of existence of a casual link between the breach and loss seems harsh in the realities of the 21st century. After examining the warranty regime adopted by the German and Norwegian hull clauses, it is fair to say that they provide a more equitable approaches for the assured than does English law. Therefore, this article suggests that English warranty regime needs overall reform and it is time to reform.

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A Study on the date of the black glazed bowls with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" of Jian ware (건요(建窯) "공어(供御)"·"진잔(進琖)"명흑유완(銘黑釉碗)의 제작시기 문제)

  • Lee, Heegwan
    • MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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    • v.100
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    • pp.82-110
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    • 2021
  • This study specifically examined the date of the black glazed bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" of Jian ware, one of the key research topics related to the bowls. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. Jian Kiln produced various shapes of black glazed bowls, but almost all of the inscriptions of "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" are found only in two certain type bowls: Type I, the Shukou type bowls (束口碗), or Type II, the Piekou type bowls (撇口碗). Of these, there are significantly more of the former in existence. For Type I bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)", the mouth of the bowls is slightly evaginated outwards, and the inclination angle of the side slope is about 50°. The shape feature, Shukou (束口) is formed which is slightly indented around the bowl about 0.3~0.5cm below the mouth of bowl. And the height of the bowls is relatively low compared to other Type I black glazed bowls produced by Jian Kiln, so the height divided by the diameter is 0.5 or less. There is little difference in shape between the black glazed bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御) and those with "Jinzhan (進琖)". However, taking into consideration the excavation situation of both type bowls, the former is considered to be ahead of the latter in terms of production date. On the other hand, the black glazed bowls of Jian ware, which have the same shape features as the Type I bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" have not been found in the tombs dating from the end of the 12th to the beginning of the 13th century from which typical Jian kiln black glazed bowls of the same type were excavated. For the Hakata site (博多遺址) in Japan, the black glazed bowls with such a shape feature were excavated from early 12th century sites, rather than from the late 12th to early 13th century sites at which the typical black glazed bowls of Jian kiln were found. Considering that the black glazed bowls from Fujian province were imported into Hakata with almost no time gap, it is very unlikely that the production time of Type I black glazed bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" will deviate from the early 12th century. In conclusion, it is considered that the black glazed bowls marked with "Gongyu (供御)" or "Jinzhan (進琖)" of Jian ware were produced in the early 12th century.

The Writing of 'HyangYakJipSungBang(鄕藥集成方)' and Medical Exchanges between Korea and China during the 15th Century (15세기 "향약집성방(鄕藥集成方)"의 편찬 과정에 드러난 한중(韓中) 의학교류)

  • Kang, Yeon-Seok
    • The Journal of Korean Medicine
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    • v.29 no.4
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    • pp.213-217
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    • 2008
  • Since at least the late 12th century, medical herbs grown naturally or cultivated in Korea have been referred to as 'HyangYak'(鄕藥, $Xi\bar{a}ngY\grave{a}o$). Herbs from other countries are referred to as 'DangYak'(唐藥, $D\bar{a}ngY\grave{a}o$). Some senior historians claim medicines made solely from HyangYak are purely Korean, since they originated and were developed fully within Korea. However, these localized medicines became abundant as the result of exchanges between Korea and other countries. Originally published in 1433, 'HyangYakJipSungBang' is the authoritative result of earlier writings of medical books using HyangYak. Comprised of a total of 85 volumes, it was large in scale and divided into three main sections: 1) a detailed description of the 703 kinds of HyangYak, 2) explanations of the 10,706 different herbal formulae and 959 types of symptoms or diseases, and 3) descriptions of the 1,416 various acupuncture and moxibustion formulae. It's noted that 'HyangYakJipSungBang' was not written all at once. In the process of its writing, the number of formulae increased through medical exchanges between Korea and China during the 15th century.

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Sportism in Fashion Generated from Hybrid (하이브리드에 의한 패션의 스포티즘 연구)

  • 박주희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.792-804
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    • 2004
  • Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.

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A Comparative Study on the Decoration of Korean Celadon and Chinese Celadon in the 12th and 13th Centuries (12~13세기 고려청자와 중국청자의 장식디자인 비교 연구)

  • Yue, kun;Ren, chuan;Kim, Hea-jin
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.427-432
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    • 2019
  • In the 12th century to the 13th century, was the heyday of celadon, Koryo celadon after experienced celadon firing technology of imitation to the peak period of the development of Chinese celadon, especially on decoration technology pioneered the self unique style, the way of engraving, $xi{\grave{a}}ngqi{\grave{a}}n$. During this period, the southern Song dynasty celadon in China also innovated in the mature celadon firing technology and became more distinctive. The decorative style also promoted the aesthetic interest of the Song dynasty. Celadon decoration is not only a decorative art of ceramic art, but also a representation of national cultural phenomenon with the traditional culture in the development of contemporary art, play a more important role and value.

Chosun Mathematics Book Suan Xue Qi Meng Ju Hae (조선(朝鮮) 산서(算書) 산학계몽주해(算學啓蒙註解))

  • Hong, Sung-Sa;Hong, Young-Hee
    • Journal for History of Mathematics
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 2009
  • Zhu Shi Jie's Suan Xue Qi Meng is one of the most important books which gave a great influence to the development of Chosun Mathematics. Investigating San Hak Gye Mong Ju Hae(算學啓蒙註解) published in the middle of the 19th century, we study the development of Chosun Mathematics in the century. The author studied western mathematics together with theory of equations in Gu Il Jib (九一集) written by Hong Jung Ha(洪正夏) and then wrote the commentary, which built up a foundation on the development of Algebra of Chosun in the century.

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A Study on the Fashion Item of the Symbolic Fashion Icons in the 20th Century (20세기 상징적 패션 아이콘에 따른 아이템 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

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The Impact of Functionalism on Changes of Women's Sportswear - Focusing on the first half of the 20th century - (기능주의가 여성 스포츠웨어 변천에 미친 영향 - 20세기 전반기를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yu-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.43-59
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    • 2010
  • In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

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