• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.36 no.3
• /
• pp.187-196
• /
• 2020

In this study, we tried to reproduce some of the cosmetics from the Joseon period based on the previous analysis of the cosmetics excavated from the tomb of Princess Hwahyup. The two cosmetic powders, the white powder consisting of lead(II) carbonate and talc and the cinnabar-based red powder, were reproduced according to the records from the 6th to the 19th centuries. We also studied the degradation profiles of these reproduced samples by comparison of XRD patterns. Basic lead carbonate of the reproduced white powder turned into lead(II) carbonate, while the reproduced red powder showed different crystalline structure from the excavated cosmetics even after the degradation. Results of the evaluation tests showed that these reproduced cosmetics fell short of the standards set for the modern-day cosmetics, but based on their mixing ratio, the spreadability and oil absorption capacity of some samples of the reproduced white powder were found to be similar to those of the modern cosmetics.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.430-439
• /
• 2020

This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO₂ were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.