• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.109-120
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• 2014

In this study, the extracts of Inula britannica var. chinensis (I. britannica) flower were extracted at three different temperatures (room temperature, $45^{\circ}C$, and $65^{\circ}C$) and their anti-aging effects were studied. Before investigating anti-aging effects of the extracts, their cytotoxicity was tested on B16F10, Hs683, and HaCaT cells. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity at the concentration less than 0.1% (v/v). Melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) in Hs683 and HaCaT cells were used to see their anti-aging effects. The room temperature extract at 0.1% showed 24.5% melanin synthesis inhibition, which was better than the $45^{\circ}C$ and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. In addition, expression rates of the room temperature extract at 0.1% on HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3 related to hyaluronan synthase genes were 123.3%, 137.8%, 133.2%, respectively. which were higher than reference material of L-ascorbic acid. Expression rates of the $45^{\circ}C$ extract at 0.1% on TNF-${\alpha}$, COX-2, and IL-$1{\alpha}$, which are inflammatory related genes, was suppressed to 30.3%, 12.8%, 25.7%, respectively. It was better in anti-in flammatory effect than the room temperature and $65^{\circ}C$ extracts. As results, we showed that I. britannica var. chinensis flower extarcts decreased melanin production and expression of inflammatory related genes and increased the expression rate of hyaluronan synthase genes. Thus, it is believed that the extracts affect anti-aging effects of skin through whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory processes and could be applicable to cosmetics as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1285-1297
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• 2020

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.358-366
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to evaluate the antimicrobial activities of Glycyrrhiza uralensis and Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts with various countries of origin. Three samples of licorice with various origins (Korea, China, and Uzbekistan) were evaluated for their antimicrobial activities against six skin microflora. The bioassay applied for determining the antimicrobial effects included the disc diffusion assay, minimum inhibitory concentration, and challenge test. The ethyl acetate fractions of G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts showed significant antimicrobial activities against two gram-positive (Bacillus subtilis, Propionibacterium acnes) and two gram-negative (Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) bacteria. These samples had much more intensive antimicrobial activities than synthetic preservatives on B. subtilis, P. acnes, and P. aeruginosa, especially. Korean licorice showed the highest antimicrobial activity amongst the samples tested. In view of the observed inhibitory features of these G. uralensis and G. glabra extracts, it is suggested that they could be used as natural antiseptics against bacterial contamination in cosmetics and foods, instead of the common synthetic preservatives currently employed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.105-110
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• 2006

This study was to describe the differences in efficacy and effect of herbal extracts by the part and solvent extraction from the medical plants used as materials of oriental herbs cosmetics. And, this study was to apply to the test method of efficacy and effect related to the antioxidation as herbal extracts, complex of actual ingredient, not existing analytical methods of single ingredient. After screening the medical plants with the antioxidative activity primarily and selecting 11 sorts of medical plants to be used by the part in the literature, this study was to confirm the differences through the well-known test methods like DPPH radical scavenging activity test and hydroxyl radical scavenging activity test. For examples, in case of Trachelospermum asiaticum, compared with the aerial part and fruit, the value of DPPH radical scavenging activity test had $25.2 {\pm} 0.2$ and $62.4 {\pm}1.6$ each. It has shown that the value of fruit had 2.4 times higher effect than the one of aerial part. In case of hydroxyl scavenging activity test, it was effective in the fruit, but it has shown that there was no effect on the aerial part. It showed the same phenomena in some other plants. From the result above, this researcher could understand that it needed to consider extracting the medical plants or plants with the active principle by the part. Also, this study was to confirm the differences in effect according to the solvent as it changed the solvent extraction after selecting a plant (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) widely used for medicine and dye. As a result of measuring the actual value of superoxide scavenging activity test, this study was to consider that there were differences by the part or solvent extraction in extracting and using the medical plants as it has shown that the effect differences produced $10{\sim}80%$ according to the solvent. When it was applied to the products, this study has shown that it needed to decrease the possible errors.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.157-164
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• 2017

Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) is a perennial plant of the genus Stevia, originated in South America. It stores many forms of glycosides, mainly stevioside and rebaudioside A, in which steviol is the basic structure. Steviol glycosides, widely used as sweeteners, are superior to sugar in sweetness. Recently, it has been reported that steviol glycosides are involved not only in the skin whitening and anti-inflammatory effect but also in enhancing skin barrier function through tight junction regulation. Thus, we examined anti-inflammatory effect of rebaudioside A and tried to identify its potential for improving atopic dermatitis as cosmetic ingredients. To investigate the anti-inflammatory effect, cell viability and mRNA expression level of inflammation-related cytokines were measured using mouse macrophage RAW264.7 cells. Cell counting kit 8 (CCK-8) assay was carried out to measure cell viability and the maximum concentration without cytotoxicity was set to $250{\mu}M$. A quantitative real-time RT-PCR method was used for the study of the inflammatory suppression of rebaudioside A. Rebaudioside A inhibited expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) up to 47% and COX-2 up to 41% compared to LPS treated condition. NO synthesis was decreased by rebaudioside A. Also, mRNA expression of interleukin (IL)-$1{\alpha}$, IL-$1{\beta}$ and IL-6 in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells was decreased to 40%, 45% and 59%, respectively, as a concentration-dependent manner. In conclusion, rebaudioside A inhibited the inflammatory response by regulation of cytokine gene expression. From these results, we expect that steviol glycoside, such as rebaudioside A, can be used as a material for improving atopic dermatitis in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.175-187
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• 2017

In this study, the antioxidant effect and component analysis for extract and fractions of Cardiospermum halicacabum leaf were investigated. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction obtained from dried C. halicacabum leaf. The yields of extract and fractions were 16.4, 0.9 and 0.3% per dried powder, respectively. DPPH (1,1-phenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of ethyl acetate fraction ($92.5{\mu}g/mL$) was the greatest radical scavenging activity, but lower than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol ($8.9{\mu}g/mL$). In reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity (total antioxidant capacity, $OSC_{50}$) on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system, aglycone fraction ($4.2{\mu}g/mL$) was the highest total antioxidant capacity and similar to L-ascorbic acid ($1.5{\mu}g/mL$). The cellular protective effects of C. halicacabum leaf extract and fractions on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were exhibited at all concentration-dependent ($5.0-25.0{\mu}g/mL$). Especially, aglycone fraction (${\tau}_{50}$, 76.4 min) in $25.0{\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effect among extracts. Components of the ethyl acetate fraction obtained from C. halicacabum extracts were analyzed by TLC, HPLC chromatogram and LC/ESI-MS. Results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction contained some flavonoids, such as apigenin-7-O-glucuronide, apigenin-7-glucosdie and quercitrin hydrate. These results suggest that the extracts and fractions of C. halicacabum leaf may be applied as antioxidant functional cosmetic raw materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Cayratia japonica extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(114.3 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Cayratia japonica extracts in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction($OSC_{50},\;3.30{\mu}g/mL$)<50% ethanol extract(1.21 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Cayratia japonica extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner($1{\sim}25{\mu}g/mL$), particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect(${\tau}_{50}$, 175.05min at 25 ${\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Cayratia japonica extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments(360 nm). Two components were identified as luteolin(composition ratio, 47.50%), apigenin(52.50). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Cayratia japonica extract revealed 3 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 4 peaks, which were identified as luteolin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside(composition ratio, 11.14%), apigenin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucuronopyranoside(15.38%), luteolin(23.55%) and apigenin(49.92%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase($IC_{50},\;70.5{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Cayratia japonica extract and antioxidative effects could be applicable to new cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.195-203
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• 2013

In this study, antioxidative effects of the extracts of different species and flowering periods of Inula britannica were investigated. According to the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity of the extracts, The I. britannica var. chinensis flower extract (500 ${\mu}g/mL$) was measured in a 79.89% free radical scavenging activity, but the flower extracts of similar species (I. britannica var. linariaefolia Regel, I. britannica var. ramosa, I. salicina var. asiatica) did not show any effect on the free radical scavenging activity. The effects of the free radical scavenging activity of I. britannica var. chinensis flower extracts were exhibited in the order of full bloom (93.68%), bud (43.28%), and fallen blossom (14.11%). Next, we established optimum condition of extract solvent, temperature, extraction time. The extract from ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$ showed the most free radical scavenging activity among other conditions and extraction time not relevant in free radical scavenging activity. The protective effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower on the photohemolysis of human erythrocytes by using rose bengal were increased in a concentration-dependent manner (5 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). In particular, the extract in 50 ${\mu}g/mL$ concentration exhibited better protective activity (${\tau}_{50}$ = 116.1 min) than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}$ = 73.44 min), which is a known lipophilic antioxidant. Principle component of I. britannica var. chinensis flower was identified as quercetin of flavonoids by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). These results indicate that the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and $^1O_2$, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. It is concluded that the antioxidative effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower could be applicable to functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2018

Genistein is one of the representative isoflavone compounds isolated from soybeans and has been studied very well for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity through previous studies. However, although genistein exhibits high solubility in organic solvents, it shows low bioavaility due to the low water solubility. In this study, we compared directly the functional difference between genistein and genistein cyclodextrin complex which has the improved water solubility and stability by cell based assay. Cell cytotoxicity experiment were carried out on RAW264.7 with CCK-8 assay and cytotoxicity was appeared from $10{\mu}g/mL$, thereby maximum concentration was set to $10{\mu}g/mL$ in all condition. We discovered that genistein CD complex suppressed NO production and iNOS expression as concentration dependent manner in the condition of LPS rather than genistein. Also, we could understand that genistein CD complex was able to down-regulate mRNA expression of anti-inflammatory cytokines such as $IL1-{\alpha}$, $IL1-{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ as concentration dependent manner in the presence of LPS. In addition, we verified that genistein CD complex increased TEER of HaCaT human keratinocyte cells as concentration dependent pattern and stimulated cell division and migration rather than genistein in cell migration assay. Thus, it is expected that it can be used as an effective cosmetic raw material for improving atopic dermatitis or skin barrier if clinical studies on skin regeneration and skin barrier of the genistein CD complex are carried out.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.25-35
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Geranium nepalense extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(15.0 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). ${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Geranium nepalense extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescense assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract($OSC_{50},\;0.23{\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Deglycosylated flavonoid fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Geranium nepalense extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 676.7 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase($IC_{50}$, 70.0 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase ($IC_{50}$, 19.9 ${\mu}g/mL$) was very high. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl-acetate fraction among the Geranium nepalense extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (370 nm). Two components were identified as quercetin(composition ratio, 15.3%), kaempferol(82.8%). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Geranium nepalense extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.