• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.143-152
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• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative activity, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase, and active components of Quercus salicina Blume extracts were investigated. Q. salicina Blume was extracted using 50 % ethanol, from which ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were prepared. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction was the highest ($8.25\;{\mu}g$/mL). The luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed that reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system was the most prominent at $0.039\;{\mu}g$/mL. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Q. salicina Blume against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim} 25\;{\mu}g$/mL). Especially, ${\tau}_{50}$ of aglycone fraction in $10 \;{\mu}g$/mL concentration showed the most protective effect at 259.9 min. The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase and elastase of Q. salicina Blume extracts were higher at aglycone fraction (respectively, $21.82 \;{\mu}g$/mL, $41.18\;{\mu}g$/mL). Active component analysis by TLC and HPLC showed quercetin, keampferol, catechin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, hyperoside, and etc. These results indicate that Q. salicina Blume extract has strong antioxidative activity and can be used as antioxidant. Particularly, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume showed superior antioxdative activity and high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase. Therefore, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.189-200
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity $(FSC_{50})$ of extract I fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(12.45{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(10.47{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(8.57{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;4.2{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(1.58{\mu}ug/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.66{\mu}g/mL)$. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect $({\tau}_{50}$, 398.67 min at $50{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77%), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands $(QG1{\sim}QG6)$, Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase $(IC_{50},\;73.5{\mu}g/mL)$ and elastase $(IC_{50},\;16.2{\mu}g/mL)$ was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2008

In the previous study, the anti-oxidant activity of oxtract/fraction of Sueada aspparagoides(SA) and the stability test for the cream containing SA extract were investigated respectively[1,2]. In this study, the components of SA extract were analyzed by TLC, HPLC, and LC/ESI-MS/MS, $^1H$-NMR. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of SA extract revealed 5 bands $(SA1{\sim}SA5)$. HPLC chromatogram of aglycone fractions obtained from deglycoylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction showed 2 bands (SAA 2 and SAA 1), which were identified as quercetin (composition ratio, 16.88%) and kaempferol (83.12%) in the order of elution time. Among 5 bands of TLC chromatogram, 4 bands $(SA2{\sim}SA5)$ also were Identified as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside (SA 2), quercetin-3-O-glucoside (SA3), kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside (SA 4), quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (SA 5) by LC/ESI-MS/MSMS/MS. respectively. The spectrum generated for SAA 1 by LC/ESI-MS/MS in the negative ion mode also gave the ion corresponding to the deprotonated aglycone $[M-H]^-$ (285m/z), the $^1H$-NMR spectrum contained signals [${\delta}$ 6.19 (1H, d, J=1.8Hz, H-6), ${\delta}$ 6.44 (1H, d, J=1.8Hz, H-8), ${\delta}$ 6.92 (2H, d, J=9.0Hz, H-3', 5'), ${\delta}$ 8.04 (2H, d, J=9.0Hz, H-2', 6', thus SAA 1 was identified as kaempferol. SAA 2 yielded the deprotonated agycone ion $[M-H]^-$ (301m/z), $^1H$-NMR spectrum showed signals [${\delta}$ 6.20 (1H, d, J=2.0Hz, H-6), ${\delta}$ 6.42 (1H, d, J=2.0Hz, H-8), ${\delta}$ 6.90 (1H, d, J=8.6Hz, H-5'), ${\delta}$ 7.55 (1H, dd, J=8.6, 2.2Hz, H-6'), ${\delta}$ 7.69 (1H, d, J=2.2Hz, H-2', thus SAA 2 was Identified as quercetin. In conclusion, with the anti-oxidant activity and the stability test reported previously, component analysis of SA extracts could be applicable to new cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.313-321
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• 2023

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E^*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandifloras flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL, and 0.17 ㎍/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.112-115
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• 2010

In this study, the antibacterial activity and the moisturizing effect of cream contaning Persicaria hydropiper L. extract were investigated by clinical trial. MIC values of ethyl acetate fraction from Persicaria hydropiper on P.acnes, S.aureus, P.ovale were 0.13~0.25%. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction was higher than or equal to the methyl paraben and quercetin. The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Persicaria hydropiper L. extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect. Also, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Persicaria hydropiper L. extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as $6.5\;g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and $7.5\;g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased by 2~4% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Persicaria hydropiper L. can function as high potential as bactericide against the skin pathogenic bacteria and the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.327-335
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• 2011

5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (Polydatin) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum), however, the effects of polydatin on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we obtained polydatin from P. cuspidatum and investigated the effects of polydatin in skin-derived melanocytes and fibroblasts. In melanocytes, polydatin inhibited not only the tyrosinase activity and melanin production but the expression of melanogenic factors, tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In addition, the level of type I procollagen in fibroblasts was analyzed, and polydatin significantly induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. Finally we conformed that topical treatment of polydatin improved wrinkle and induced whitening of human skin in vivo. These data provide evidence that polydatin can be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin wrinkle and whitening from the point of industry view.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.900-907
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• 2018

This study was carried out to evaluate the possibility of unripe apple peel water extracts as cosmetic materials and to evaluate the biological activities of the antioxidant and whitening effects of the samples. The antioxidative properties of the samples were confirmed by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) cation radical scavenging ability. To evaluate the whitening effect of the samples, several analytical techniques were used, including toxicity evaluations of the samples by MTT assays. Measurements of the inhibition rates of cellular tyrosinase, melanin synthesis rates, and expression rates of whitening-related proteins and genes were confirmed using melanoma (B16F10 cell). At equivalent unripe apple peel water concentrations ($1,000{\mu}g/ml$), the DPPH radical scavenging and the ABTS cation radical scavenging activities were 77.3% and 93.1%, respectively. The whitening activity evaluation showed that tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis were inhibited by 19.8% and 17.3%, respectively, at unripe apple peel water extract concentrations of $50{\mu}g/ml$. In B16F10 cells induced by ${\alpha}$-MSH, the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 decreased. Also, the activity of the transcription factor MITF was inhibited. In real-time PCR experiments, the expression of related genes at the upstream signal level was also found to be progressively lowered as the concentration of unripe apple peel water extracts increased. From these results, it was confirmed that the unripe apple peel water extracts showed excellent whitening efficacy and could be used as safe, natural, raw cosmetic material in the future.

• Analytical Science and Technology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.79-87
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• 1998

Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. During the testing of cytotoxicity (in-vitro) in neutral red (NR) method, cell survival ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased to just above 0.08 w/v%, and it was observed that the UV-A interceptors the ratio also decreased to just above 0.06 w/v%. In addition patch-tests of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation even below 10.0 and 11.25. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and UV-A for butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM). For this reason, $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. Zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide ($TiO_2$) was used as inorganic UV interceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and $TiO_2$ was 6 to 4:6% of ZnO, 4% of $TiO_2$ and 5% of $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB were all combined and added to our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vitro was 38.9. In practical application, each sun protection factor (SPF) duration of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and water-in-silicone (W/S) emulsion containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. Therefore, this product is fit for use in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble caused by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.218-222
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• 2002

Lycii Cordex Radicis extract (gigolpi) examined through SOS Chromotest showed a strong, dose-dependent antimutagenic effect on the tert-butyl hydroperoxide (t-BOOH) induced mutagenecity. Gigolpi revealed considerable superoxide anion radical scavenging activity under L-ascorbic $acid-CuSO_4$ system, but showed lower hydroxyl radical scavenging activity in photochemical test system. Hot-water gigolpi extract delayed protein oxidation, whereas lipid peroxidation of rat skin exposed to UVB radiation was inhibited. The results indicate that gigolpi possessing antioxidant activity against UVB-induced lipid peroxidation could be used as a raw ingredient for manufacturing functional cosmetics

• Clean Technology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.401-407
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• 2017

This paper describes a shake-flask fermentation of Acacia flower producing whitening- and antioxidant- agents. Tyrosinase activity was inhibited in the presence of traditional and flask-fermentation broths whereas no inhibitory effect of flower extract was observed. Tyrosinase inhibition was 40% in the presence of solution containing 10% of extract from fermentation broth and it increased by increase in the concentration of it. Arbutin ($20mg\;mL^{-1}$) and kojic acid ($80{\mu}g\;mL^{-1}$) gave 90% and 58% inhibition, respectively. The result indicates that whitening activity of 40% extract solution was comparable to that of kojic acid ($80{\mu}g\;mL^{-1}$). The comparable antioxidant activity was observed for 60% extract and $10mg\;mL^{-1}$ vitamin solution. No noticeable toxicity was observed with extract. The physicochemical stability of fermentation supernatant was observed at room temperature storage condition. The result clearly shows that shake-flask fermentation of Acacia flower produced whitening agent for functional cosmetics.