• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권5호
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• pp.755-764
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• 2015

This study investigates if the relationships between hemline and macro-economic factors (rGDP, recession, and unemployment) are still applicable as well as analyzes time lags that reflect economic factors on the hemline index using U.S. data. The hemline theory and fashion cyclical theory were applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the hemline measurements of women's day-wear were obtained from US Vogue spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. Data were standardized by dividing the length from shoulder to hemline by the length from the shoulder to ankle. I aggregated 2260 samples and hemline data to create a yearly average. This study used OLS of Stata 13 program to explore the relationship between macro-economic factors and hemline. The main findings were the recession and unemployment influenced hemline length for four years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of previous recession and unemployment on the current hemline were very close to the significant level respectively. This finding supports the hemline theory in that a recessionary economy is related to longer hemlines and hemlines become shorter in flourishing economic periods.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.584-597
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• 2014

This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

In this study, the formative property of flare skirts is carry out by the shape horizontal sections of hem line. Flare skirts was made by 10 kinds of fabrics with different physical properties. the length of flare skirts was 60cm. The main results obtained are as follows ; 1, The shape horizontal sections of hem line has differed with number of nodes and fabrics properties, in direction of texture. 2. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability decreased in order from Polyester/nylon(20/80)>Polyester(twill, thickness 0.2441)>Polyester(plain, thickness0.3760)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3687)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3101). 3. The correlation between the number of nodes and wave-height of modes and breadth showed a high negative correlation with the drapability of fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

미혼여성과 기혼여성을 대상으로 인체계측을 실시하여 직접 계측치와 지수치를 이용하여 주축요인분석을 한 결과 도출된 인자를 독립변수로 군집분석을 한 하반신 체형변인과 직물에 의한 플레어 스커트의 외관형상을 분석하기 위하여 영상처리를 이용하여 착용실험을 한 결괴는 다음과 같다. 1. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면형상 분석 결과 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 드레이프 면적과 드레이프 계수는 드레이프의 면적이 크면 드레이프 계수도 큰 값을 나타내었다. 직물의 노드수는 드레이프성이 좋을수록 많이 형성되고 노드수가 많으면 노드지수 값은 작은 값을 가진다. 노드지수 값이 크면 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타나고 작으면 노드의 고저가 불균일하게 나타난다. 또한 인체 측정치수의 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 차이, 허리너비와 엉덩이너비의 차이 값이 큰 마름모형 체형변인에서 노드수는 많이 나타나고 노드지수 값은 작게 나타났다. 통형에 가까운 체형변인은 노드지수가 큰 값을 나타내므로 노드의 고저가 균일하게 나타났다. 직물의 노드수가 많으면 노드산 평균은 낮고, 노드지수 값이 큰 반면 노드수가 작으면 노드산펑균이 높으므로 노드산과 곡의 고저가 심하게 나타났다. 그러므로 직물의 드레이프성이 우수하다 할지라도 적정의 중량을 가지지 않으면 노드가 불균일하게 형성되어 의복 외관의 좋은 외관형상을 형성하지 못하는 결점이 나타나는 것으로 해석되었다. 2. 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단면의 최대횡경은 인체측정값의 너비항목과 최대종경은 두께항목과 관련성이 높은 것으로 나타났다. 단면비의 값이 크면 최대횡경의 값이 크고 최대종경의 값이 작은 타원형에 가까운 단면형상이 나타나고, 단면비의 값이 작으면 최대횡경 값이 작고 최대총경 값이 큰 원형에 가까운 단변형상으로 나타났다. 3. 플레어 스커트의 외관형상 분석 결과 정면처짐분은 둘레항목, 너비항목 시아항목의 차이 값이 작을수록, 직물의 드레이프성이 좋을수록 크게 나타났다. 미혼여성과 기혼여성을 비교해 보면 기혼여성의 체형이 너비, 둘레항목사이의 치어 값이 적기 때문에 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 측면처짐분은 인체측정값의 두께항목과 상관이 깊어 앞부분은 배두께가 클수록, 뒷부분은 엉덩이두께가 클수록 처짐분량이 크게 나타났다. 후면처짐분은 정면과 같이 S시료에서 드레이프성이 좋을수록 처짐분이 크고, 엉덩이너비는 크고, 엉덩이두께가 작올수록 처짐분이 크게 나타났다. 4. 플레어 스커트의 3차원 입체형상은 외관형상의 굴곡이 낮아 평평할 수록 이미지의 평균값은 높고 편차는 낮게 나타났다. 체형변인에 의한 플레어 스커트의 주름 형상을 정면, 측면, 후면에서 이미지 값 분포로 비교해 보면 정면, 후면보다 측면의 외관이 평활하여 이미지 분포폭이 좁게 나타나고 최빈값을 중심으로 회색에 가까운 쪽으로 치우쳐 있는 것을 불 수 있다. 5. 체형변인에 따른 플레어 스커트의 주름특성을 평가하기 위하여 영상처리법으로 얻은 결과를 3차원 업체형상으로 분석하기 위하여 6개의 영역을 측정한 결과 플레어 스커트는 체형유형에 따라 곡면을 형성하는 주름의 수와 주름강도가 다르게 나타나 위 아랫부분의 주름폭은 차이가 있었다. 위부분에서 아랫부분으로 내려올수록 주름높이 폭은 커졌다. 그러므로 주름의 높이와 플레어 스커트의 헴라인 단연형상의 노드각도와 밀접한 관련이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 즉, 주름의 높이가 높으면 노드 각도는 작은 값을 보이고, 주름의 높이가 낮으면 노드각도는 큰 값을 나타내었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.35-46
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in mean${\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. As seen in the study, it was found out that there was a difference in three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body even in the group of whom the body heights, measured by Martin's system, are alike. Due to such a difference in the three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body, it was found out to be a difference in drapability of the flare skirts. In order to have better fitness of the lower part of the body and to raise the visual effect, therefore, it is suggested that there need to develop a new model of the flare skirts considering three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body for the wearer or to take complementary measures for each body shape in case of applying traditional model.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.499-511
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• 2009

As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.