• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.755-764
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• 2015

This study investigates if the relationships between hemline and macro-economic factors (rGDP, recession, and unemployment) are still applicable as well as analyzes time lags that reflect economic factors on the hemline index using U.S. data. The hemline theory and fashion cyclical theory were applied to propose the relationships studied. The data for the hemline measurements of women's day-wear were obtained from US Vogue spring and fall editions from 1950 to 2014. Data were standardized by dividing the length from shoulder to hemline by the length from the shoulder to ankle. I aggregated 2260 samples and hemline data to create a yearly average. This study used OLS of Stata 13 program to explore the relationship between macro-economic factors and hemline. The main findings were the recession and unemployment influenced hemline length for four years in a positive direction. Furthermore, the effects of previous recession and unemployment on the current hemline were very close to the significant level respectively. This finding supports the hemline theory in that a recessionary economy is related to longer hemlines and hemlines become shorter in flourishing economic periods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.584-597
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• 2014

This study verified the 'Hemline Index' theory by George (1926) and established a new fashion theory frame to forecast future fashion cycles of skirts by analyzing the past fashion cycle of skirts through a diachronic method. Skirt pictures from 1980-2013 (the post-industrialized period of Korea) were analyzed and representative skirt styles, the fashion cycle of skirts and relation between skirt style, length, width and stock index were identified. A total of 1496 pictures in fashion magazine published over 34 years were selected and analyzed using PASW 18.0. The results were: For 34 years, representative skirts styles were mini skirt, midi skirt and long skirt. Fashion trend cycles of skirt length decreased for 10 years and the fashion cycle showed a trend to shorten. Skirt length & stock index related negatively and skirt length & skirt width related positively. All relations revealed significant results. Finally, the 'Hemline Index' theory of George (1926) was verified. Fashion marketers can develop successful and suitable products using a fashion cycle theory based on the results of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.149-155
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• 1995

In this study, the formative property of flare skirts is carry out by the shape horizontal sections of hem line. Flare skirts was made by 10 kinds of fabrics with different physical properties. the length of flare skirts was 60cm. The main results obtained are as follows ; 1, The shape horizontal sections of hem line has differed with number of nodes and fabrics properties, in direction of texture. 2. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability decreased in order from Polyester/nylon(20/80)>Polyester(twill, thickness 0.2441)>Polyester(plain, thickness0.3760)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3687)>Polyester(plain, thickness 0.3101). 3. The correlation between the number of nodes and wave-height of modes and breadth showed a high negative correlation with the drapability of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.35-46
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in mean${\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. As seen in the study, it was found out that there was a difference in three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body even in the group of whom the body heights, measured by Martin's system, are alike. Due to such a difference in the three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body, it was found out to be a difference in drapability of the flare skirts. In order to have better fitness of the lower part of the body and to raise the visual effect, therefore, it is suggested that there need to develop a new model of the flare skirts considering three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body for the wearer or to take complementary measures for each body shape in case of applying traditional model.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.499-511
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• 2009

As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.