• The Journal of the Petrological Society of Korea
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.255-269
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• 2017

Five year term monitoring investigating variation of allochthonous originated gravels are has been conducted in the beach gravel deposit of the Island Dokdo natural reserve which takes purity and uniqueness with enormous attention though a number of areas. The beach gravel deposits near the dock of the Dongdo and near the accommodation facility of the Seodo comprise various types of gravels including basalt, trachyte, and tuff from the Dokdo itself, and granite, rhyolite, gneiss, quartzite, marble, and concrete from elsewhere. The types of the allochthonous gravels on the basis of the study in 2011 and in 2016 shows no difference, so is the ranking of abundance of the allochthonous gravels; granite-concrete-gneiss in turn on the Dongdo, concrete-gneiss-granite in turn on the Seodo. Nevertheless, the relative ratio of the allochthonous gravel area against the total area is decreased. While it is suspected that the disintegrated facility and the influx of material for construction are the main 2 reasons for the contamination by allochthonous gravel, diminished total contamination ratio indicate that supervising allochthonous material has been improved; at least not worse during the 5 years. On the other hand, it is inferred that gradual influence of rockfall also has been made the gravel beach changed. Therefore, consistent rockfall investigation must be inquired.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.39-51
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• 2011

In this study, the shape of the Baramarae beach, Anmyeondo Area in West Coast of Korea and the changes in the sedimentation and erosion environment were analyzed in time series. As a result of the time series analysis of the shape of the Baramarae beach using aerial photographs from 1967 to 2009, the sand spit that developed in the southern part of Halmi Island was found to have had an EEN direction, but it was changed to a NNS direction, as reflected in the 2009 aerial photographs, as it gradually shifted to the west. In the onsite measurement, the H-3, H-4, H-5, and H-6 spots showed a superior sedimentation environment and the H-7, H-8, and H-9 spots showed a superior erosion environment. It was thus found that sedimentation is superior in the southwest beach and that erosion is superior in the northeast beach. The results in the spots between H-3 and H-6 indicate that the sand in the beach could not move to the northeast beach of Halmi Island due to the bank that had been established in the southwest beach of the island. On the other hand, it seems that superior erosion takes place in spots H-7 to H-9 in the northeast beach, where sand is not provided from the southwest beach of Halmi Island. It was found from the seasonal analysis that the season when superior sedimentation takes place in all the spots is autumn, and that the season when superior erosion takes place is summer. Superior sedimentation takes place in winter and spring in the southeast side and in summer in the northwest side.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1998

동해안의 강원도 양양읍 남대천 하구에 발달한 spit beach의 지형적변화(1979∼ 1996) 는 outlet의 위치변화와 해안선 모습의 변화로 규명되었는바 일차적인 변화는 해안에 평행한 spit의 성장이며 이차적인 변화는 spit폭의 변화(overwash across sedimentation)라 고 밝혀졌다. 해빈환경의 소환경(subenvironment)으로서 swash zone과 berm crest는 각각 의 특징적 퇴적상(조직매개변수)으로 구분되는바 이에 관한 분석결과가 기술되었다.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2001.03a
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• pp.122-127
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• 2001

부산 광안리 해수욕장은 해빈유실 및 해안선이 감소하고 있다는 논란이 있는 장소이다. 그러므로, 본 연구에서는 과거 30여 년간에 항공사진과 해양조사원의 부산항 수위관측자료를 분석하여 광안리 해수욕장의 해안선변화에 관한 연구를 하였다. 매 3년마다 항공사진을 이용하여 정사투영과 DEM을 추출을 실시하였다. 그래서 광안리 해수욕장에 해안선변화가 발생하였는지, 어떠한 부분에 변화하였고, 변화한 면적은 얼마나 인가를 분석하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.241-243
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• 2014

Recently, as the coastal erosion impacts greats to both social and economical aspects, each local government is trying to setup its countermeasures. However, it is necessary to survey the change of sediment movement characteristics and investigate the continuous environment change by long-term monitoring after building prevention constructions. In this study, predictions on wave deformation and sediment movement deduced through the numerical modeling are made, based on the ordinary and extraordinary wave through seasonal superiority wave direction, height, period and long-term wave characteristics on the eroded beach of central West sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.73-87
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• 2019

Ocean waves are the driving force for the sediment transport and the beach process. However, wave actions are nonlinear and non-stationary, and the response of the beach is inconsistent in terms of reaction rate and magnitude. Therefore, the beach process is difficult to predict accurately. The purpose of this study is to identify the correlations between the shoreline change and ocean waves observed in the east coast of Korea. The relation of the beach width obtained from video monitoring at five sandy beaches and the wave data obtained from nearby wave monitoring at three points was analyzed. Although the correlations estimated over the whole data sets was not significant, the correlations estimated based on the seasonal period or wave conditions provided more noteworthy information. When the non-exceedance probability of the wave height was greater than 0.99, the wave period and beach width showed strong negative correlations. In case the non-exceedance probability of the wave period was greater than 0.99, the wave height and beach width showed strong negative correlations as well. Furthermore, the erosion rate of the beach width increased when the primary wave direction was close to normal to the coastline. Little significant seasonal or monthly change was found between the beach width and the wave, but it was greatly affected by intensive events such as typhoons. Thus, it is necessary to analyze in detail the wave height or period level explaining the change of beach width for more relevant and practical information.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.244-252
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• 2014

EOF (Empirical Orthogonal Function) analysis is applied to investigate the sand movement in Hujeong Beach. For the analysis, the profile data which were observed five times from June 2009 to May 2010 along the 13 baselines were used. To secure the temporal and physical consistency among the 13 profile data, the 13 profile data were combined into one data and using this data the EOF analysis was performed. According to the analysis, the first EOF is related with the mean topography and the second EOF represents the natural variation of sediment migration and the third EOF is related with the along-shore sediment transport arising from storm. The remaining EOFs show no special relation with wave conditions. In conclusion the main factors which are having great effects on Hujeong Beach's sand movement are analyzed as natural variation and along-shore sediment transport owing the wave conditions.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.4B
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• pp.429-439
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the shape of submerged breakwater. For the discussion on it in detail, 3-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly interaction of Wave Structure Sandy beach (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D; Hur and Lee, 2007) has been used to simulate run-up height over sandy beach as well as wave field around submerged breakwaters. Using the results obtained from numerical simulation, the effects of the shape of submerged breakwaters (crown height, crown width, crown length and submerged breakwater's slope gradient) on run-up height over sandy beach have been discussed related to the wave height distribution and characteristics of up-layer flow around ones.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.345-354
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• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.