• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.350-362
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• 2017

The Eulerian nearshore current model is more advantageous than the Lagrangian model in the way that numerical results from the Eulerian model can be directly compared with the measurements by the stationary equipment. It is because the wave mass flux is not included in the computed mass flux of Euleran nearshore current model. In addition, the Eulerian model can simulate the longshore currents with depth varying parabolic profile. However, the numerical models proposed by different researcher have different forms of the wave stress terms. For example, wave stresses in Newberger and Allen's (2007) model is constant over the depth, while those of Chun (2012) are vertically distributed. In the present study, these wave stress terms were compared against Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiments to see the effects of different wave stress terms performed on the computation of nearshore currents.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.661-669
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• 2000

The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport or dispersion in the surf zone, which often gives rises to serious environmental problems in the coastal region. Although many numerical models have been suggested up to now, it is not easy to properly simulate wave-induced currents, in particular, over a complex topography. In order to solve these problems, we have to understand the mechanism of wave transformation and wave-induced currents, to compare results numerical models with those of field measurements, and to find the validity and the applicability of them. And, also the validity of the model has been confirmed by the field investigation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.247-258
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• 2014

To evaluate the influence of the external force components on the littoral currents in the Gusipo beach, Jeonbuk, West Coast of Korea where a wide tidal sand flat developed, a coupled hydrodynamic model considered real time tidal currents and wave-induced currents was constructed in which the EFDC for tides and tidal currents, the SWAN for waves and the SHORECIRC for wave-induced currents were used as the hindcasting models. A series of field observations for tides, tidal currents and incident waves were carried out and especially to observe the littoral currents in the tidal sand flat, the GPS mounted and light weight drogues were used. Also wind data were collected from the adjacent weather station. To analyze the littoral current components, the numerical drogue tracking results considered real time winds, tides and waves were compared with the field drogue data. The drift speed of numerical drogues was reproduced as the range of 68.0~105.2% compared with the field data and the velocity error of main direction component showed a good result as -16.7~10.0%. As a result, in the mild slope tidal flat including wide surf zone, the tides and winds were the major affection component of the littoral currents, on the other hand, the wave-induced currents seemed the minor component when the incident wave heights were relatively small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.114-121
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• 2004

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2011

At Haeundae Beach in Busan, people were swept away by the fast-moving rip current and rescued, on August 13th and 15th, 2009 & July 29th and 30th, 2010. In predicting the wave-induced current and consequent tube movement for public safety, the coastal flows and waves are calculated at each time step and grid point by means of systematic interfacing of hydrodynamic and wave models (Lee, 2001). To provide a user-friendly simulation tool for end-users, the forecasting system has been built in a software package called HAECUM. Outputs from the system are viewed as graphs of tube positions with combined current vectors for easy decision of emergency management officials. The tube-wave interaction is taken into account and the traces of swim tube are simulated by using a Lagrangian random walk (Chorin, 1978; Lee, 1994). In this study, we use the Lee's approach (Lee, 1993) in estimating the surface onshore currents due to wave breaking.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.490-495
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• 2004

안목항의 방파제 확장 건설로 인하여 항남측에 심각한 침식현상이 광범위하게 발생하고 있는 데 이를 규명하기 위하여 현재 주변 해안선 변형 현상을 기초로 연안 표사 이동(littoral drift)도를 정성적으로 작성하였으며 수치 모형실험을 통하여 상세할 표사이동의 변화를 살펴보았다. 수치모형 실험은 파랑 변형 및 해빈류 예측 모형인 WADEM-P, DISEM-R로 수행되었다. 항 내 매몰 및 하천 폐색을 근본적으로 해결하면 해안선 침식문제를 완화 시 킬 수 있는 장치로서 모래운송장치(sand transfer)의 필요성이 언급되었으며 앞으로 연안 표사량이 많은 동해안에서의 항만 건설시 꼭 필요한 부대장치임을 강조한다. 또한 주기적인 연안관측 프로그램을 수립하여 연안 표사량 및 해안 침식율을 산정한 후 모래이송장치의 설치 여부 및 그 규모를 판단할 필요가 있다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.189-199
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• 1998

Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study, one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mising, radiation stresses, surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland's(1985) relult is used to calculate radiation stress and Berkmeir & Darlymple's(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda's(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Maruyama's(1985) experimental relults and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater test. The results from our wave model show good agreement with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. Wave induced current model is developed in this study and this model shows nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater and can be applied in the surf zone and also consider the friction stresses.