• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.17-26
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• 2005

In this research, in order to find out the effect of the area ratio in the harmonic sense assessment of the coloration of Korean clothes, the coloration of a Korean jacket and a skirt was compounded with a similar coloration and a contrast coloration. The respondents were asked to evaluate 16 stimuli of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket with the coloration of the Korean jacket/ skirt, the skirt/ Korean jacket was separately compounded to be 4 tones such as vivid, light, dull, dark. The subjects were 44 female undergraduate students. The results of each can be summerized as follows. As to similar coloration, the korean yellow jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid and dull tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, light, and dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and yellow skirt, both countries' students recognized that the vivid tone was harmonious. Korean students gave higher points to korean traditional dress in similar coloration such as yellow korean jacket which was small area and red skirt which was large area coloration than inversed color area ratio which red korean jacket and yellow skirt. As to contrast coloration, the korean green jacket and red skirt, Korean students feel vivid tone was harmonious, and American students feel vivid, dark tone were harmonious coloration. In inversed case, red korean jacket and green skirt were recognized that any tone was not harmonious for both countries' students. Both countries of student showed the culture gap. Compared with American students, Korean students were familiar with korean dress's traditional coloration, as a result familiar coloration was recognized harmonious coloration.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.137-154
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• 1999

This study was designed to unify two types -traditional and western- of wedding dress in one and to develop new wedding dress which can be used to wedding ceremony as well as Pae-Bae(Greeting) as an alternative for the modernistic utilization of traditional wedding dress. The wedding dress for a bride and bridegroom was developed to be used not only for wedding ceremony but also for engagement. The children's dress which can be worn for carrying flowers in front of a bride and a bridegroom was also developed. All six dresses two of each for a bride and a bridegroom one of each for a body and a girl were developed from the review of literature and photos to be introduced traditional wedding dress. The results were as follows: 1. The Korean characteristics in the developed dress were expressed well in the curves straight lines oblique lines and cracks. 2. The traditional symbolic meanings were expressed by using the pattern which was on traditional wedding dress. Changes from five original colors -red, blue, yellow, white, black- to pastel colors also could modernize the dress. 3. The Korean characteristics could be effectively expressed in dying techniques and piling -up by using hand-made silk and No-Bang, 4. The children's dress for a ceremony was re-established to modernized design with traditional beauty. 5. The expenses could be saved practically because the dress was developed for wedding ceremony as well as for engagement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.943-961
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• 2018

This study was to develop an ergonomic Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) pattern. First, we developed a prototype pattern and sample jackets based on a previous investigation for fitness and motion suitability of Korean male military winter jackets and evaluated fitness and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation results were positive with an over 3.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket. However, a relatively low score was shown in the sleeve length and collar front height at the inner jacket and shown in hem circumference, neck circumference, elbow and front neck at the outer jacket. Next, we developed the secondary pattern and sample jacket reflecting the prototype evaluation result and executed expert evaluation. The result showed that the ease amount was appropriate (except for the collar back height) and the appearance was good. Finally, we developed a final pattern that showed good results after evaluation at a Korean military army base.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.399-406
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• 2023

Due to the increasing influence of the Korean Wave, traditional themes are emerging to the forefront of performance content development, emphasizing the necessity of applying the art of storytelling to the creative process. The purpose of this research is to examine the differentiated costume design of the Pansori ballet "Dokkaeba! Dokkaeba!," developed through the implementation of storytelling in its performance creation process. Choreographers, writers, and costume designer collaborated throughout the storytelling process from planning to content creation. This resulted in a clarified depiction of the Dokkaebi as divine beings with transcendental powers who are simultaneously friendly and familiar entities, often appearing in the form of humans and objects. Accordingly, the costume design based on this collaborative storytelling deliberately avoided the appearance of Dokkaebi reminiscent of 'Kwimyeonwa' or Japanese 'Oni', typically expressed with horns or decorations, and instead implemented novel design elements, such as fusion Hanbok with a variety of dimensionally aesthetic accessories, meaningful color contrast in modern clothing, textural elements indirectly expressing character and transmogrification, and daily clothing attire to illustrate the humanized Dokkaebi. Therefore, this study seeks to contribute to the production of new performance art showcasing the Dokkaebi by identifying the diversity of expression and direction within costume design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.425-435
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• 2006

The Korean silk industry is facing challenges due to decreasing demand and intensified competition. To understand its current state and evaluate its competitiveness precisely, we have visited most of the leading silk firms in Jinju area. By questionnaire and in-depth interview, we investigated their operational problems. We found that most of the managers are understanding the necessity of the capabilities in design and material development, but they did not fully aware of the importance of operational flexibilities. Based on the results of the survey, suggestions that are necessary to restore the competitiveness of the Korean silk industry were proposed from industrial and corporate viewpoints.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.211-227
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of design modification, decoration and color scheme of traditional Korean women's clothing on impression formation by 2 age groups of women. The instruments developed for the study were 2 sets of stimuli and a response scale. Stimuli I (design stimuli) consisted of 6 line drawings of female figures in Korean clothing and modified Korean style clothing, whereas stimuli II (color stimuli) consisted of 6 colored drawings of female figures in different color schemes. The 7-point semantic differential scale of 14 bipolar adjectives were used for the response scales. 144 female college students and 144 middle·aged women subjects were randomly assigned to one of 6 drawings from each set of stimuli. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and t-test. 1) There factors emerged to account for dimensions of design and color scheme, respectively. The first factor was interpreted as Evaluation/prestige both in design (stimuli I) and color scheme (stimuli II), the second factor was Modernity for stimuli I, and the third factor for stimuli I was Practicality. On the other hand, the Luxuriousness/Individuality was factor 2 and Modernity was factor 3 for stimuli ll. 2) Modification had the largest effect on impressions regarding design and decorated designs had a partial effect on the impression of Modernity and Practicality. The female figures in modified Korean style clothing were perceived as more prestigious, modern and practical than those in traditional Korean clothing. 3) Color schemes had little effect on impressions, while perceiver's age had a larger effect. Middle·aged women formed more positive impressions toward Korean clothing of various color schemes than female college students.