• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review changes of gender identity of men as a sexual role changes and their cognition on fashion and to analyze changes and features of their fashion required in the diversified era and suggest implications for future men's fashion design. To understand a correlation between a change of men's gender styles and fashion and aesthetic features and differences by gender style, this study analyzed significant brands of the men's design market. The results of this study are as followings. First, metrosexual and uebersexual were mixed in the 1990's and the 2000's. The ratio of uebersexual in the 1990's was higher as three times as metrosexual. On the other hand, the ratio of metrosexual in the 2000's was higher than uebersexual by about 3.5%. It implicates that there were significant changes in design of men's clothes between the 1990's and the 2000's. Second, aesthetic properties and differences of metrosexual and uebersexual obtained from the survey. Metrosexual fashion uses almost all details and has no limit in using materials and accessories. The other side, uebersexual fashion rarely has details. In conclusion, this study showed that the relationship between male and fashion on the social and cultural phenomena. which have been recognized that there is a low correlation, is being newly established as a sexual role changes by gender.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.32-50
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to reveal the process of enactment and revision, the contents of the police uniform system by the Government-General of Joseon, and to examine the relationship between the uniform system and the ruling policies of Imperialist Japan. The research methodology involved document research of official gazettes that published legislation on the police uniform system. Political background was referenced from various preceding studies. The research results are as follows. The Japanese invasion of Korea, in regards to the police, appeared as infiltrations through the three routes of consular police, temporary military police, and inside the Korean police. Each organization had different uniform systems, and after the installation of the Japanese police in 1907, the uniform system of high level officers of the Korea police was changed to the Japanese-style. After the installation of the Government-General of Joseon in 1910, a police uniform system was not enacted until 1918, with the exception being made for police officers due to the military police system. The 'Police Officer Uniform System of the Government-General of Joseon' enacted in 1918 stood out for its golden insignia on solidly colored fabric, which effectively indicated rank, as well as the Japanese flag pattern and the cherry blossom pattern, which symbolized imperialist Japan, on the cap badge and insignia. The 1918 uniform system had many differences from the Japanese system of the time in terms of design, perhaps due to the political autonomy of the governor-general. The 1918 uniform system was completely revised in 1932. This uniform system was modified in various ways. The system was almost identical to the Japanese system at that time. This is the result of Japan's intent to dominate Korea, which involved assimilating Korea into Japan with the purpose of conducting a full-fledged invasion of the continent after the Manchurian Incident.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.75-88
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• 2006

The conception of uniform is changing from function and economical efficiency of the past to symbolism and aesthetic sense So, in such a management strategical point of view as enterprises' PR, scouting talent, organization revitalization etc, this is required to settle uniform culture which is proper to each enterprise and design development. The purpose of this thesis is, first, to study to help distribution enterprises' CI or PR by examining the present condition of uniform design in domestic fashion distribution enterprise and planning uniform design on the base of real case and finally making a real thing in person. Second is to suggest to fashion enterprise security of competitive ability of uniform-producing enterprise by developing article design of worth. Third is to present academic area with how to do design education in a wide range not based on trend article development. Following is how and what to study to carry out these purposes. Details about necessity and how and what to study are in an introduction, the conception of uniform in theory through precedential records examination in chapter 2, the present condition of uniform design based on Changwon city in chapter 3, planning uniform design and making a real thing suitable for F enterprise in chapter 4, and the conclusion is in chapter 5. Through this study, I became to know that uniform in distribution enterprise who treats visitors face to face is very important. I supply material and information concluded from this study to uniform industry and hope this will be helpful in developing uniform. It is significant in that this study as being related with enlarged uniform and enterprise, beyond such a uniform area as school uniform and hospital one, expanded the study range of clothing. I already tell you that this study is based on visual expression of uniform and wearer's feeling in clothes is not included.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2004

The purpose of this study examines the characteristics of the Techno-Cyber fashion in modern fashion, and especially, how the make-up in the Techno-Cyber fashion is expressed artistically, and finally how much the make-up has its aesthetic value and significance. This study has its meaning in studying the relationship between the Techno-Cyber fashion and the make-up. Further more, the study has its significance in that it is possible to consider the interaction of the make-up by the fashion trend. The way of the study is to analyze its features that are shown in the documents of the inside and outside of the country. the study precedent, the technical journal, and the fashion picture. And also the study refers to the related contents in the searching for internet. The aesthetic characteristics of the expressed make-up is shown with the various aesthetic styles, as follows : First, the future-oriented characteristics is shown as the expression of the metallic make-up that emphasizes the glitter and glossy texture, and of the transparent make-up that emphasizes the simplicity of the body. Second, the surrealistic characteristics is expressed to the collage make-up that expresses the unexpected character with the introduction of the special materials and the position changing and the graphic make-up that destroys the standardized form. Third, the anti-cultural characteristics is expressed to the Cyber-Punk make-up that expresses the destructive and challenging image. Finally, the compromise characteristics is shown in the Ethno make-up combined the concept of the ethnic with the high technology and the Androgynous make-up which destroys the bounds of the sex.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.123-142
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• 1998

본 논문에서 패션 디자인(fashion design)을 평가하는데 있어서 새로운 방법론적 접근 방식을 제시해 보려하였다. 즉 패션 디자이너의 디자인에 대한 철학을 이해함으로서 패션에 대한 근복적인 면에 대해 보다 나은 이해를 갖도록 하는 접근 방식을 모색하려는 것이다. 본 논문의 분석대상은 디자이너 루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich : 1922-1985)와 그의 작품들인데, 그의 작품들에 나타나는 급진적인 성향 뒤에 숨어 있는 그의 디자인 철학을 집중적으로 분석함으로써 작품과 철학의 상관관계를 조명하려는 것이 그 주된 목적이다. 기존의 그에 대한 평가는‘파격적 패션’,‘소설 스테이트먼트(Social Statement)’,또는‘시각적 창출’등의 표현으로 극히 피상적인 것이었다. 반면에 그가 어떠한 경로로 이러한 디자인을 구상하게 되었는지 또는 그가 현대의상에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미쳤는지에 대한 연구는 극히 소수에 불과하였다. 본 논문의 초점은 건라이의 패션 디자인을 그가 중요한 가치로 믿고 있었던‘개인적 자유에 대한 추구’의 반영으로써 재 평가해 보려는 것이다. 이것의 입증을 위해서 그의 디자인들을 역사적, 사회적 그리고 미학적인 관점에서 분석하였다. 먼저 그의 디자인 철학을 도출하기 위해 그의 개인적 배경에 대한 상세한 검토를 하였고, 그의 디자인과 관련된 자료와, 현존하는 작품들과 그에 따른 참고문헌들에 대한 분석 조사 작업을 하였다. 이 작업을 통해 필자는 건라이의 작품들을 세 개의 주된 주제들, 즉,‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’,‘유니섹스 모드(Unisexs Mode)’, 그리고‘옵 아트 패션(Op-art Fashion)’으로 구분하였다.‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’과‘유니섹스 모드(Unisex Mode)’는 60년대 중반에서 70ssu대 초반에 출현한 유스 컬츄어(Youth Culture)에 부합하는 그이 디자인의 반영으로써 성의 혁명, 여성 인권운동과 동성애자 인권 운동과 같은 사회이슈들과 그의 디자인이 갖는 상관관계를 보여주는 것이다.‘옵-아트 패션(Op-art fashion)’은 건라이 디자인의 미학적 요소에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그의 작품에 나타나는 인체와 옵-아트 원리의 관계를 조명해 보고, 건라이가 옵-아트와의 연계하에 그의 디자인을 어느만큼 예술적으로 승화시켰는지를 보여주고 있다. 각 주체들은 건라이 작품들의 개별적인 분석을 통해 논하였다. 본 논문은 보다 넓은 관점에서의 건라이의 디자인에 대한 재 평가로 결론을 지었다. 이러한 재평가 작업을 통해 패션 디자인계에 미친 그의 공헌의 역사적 중요성을 강조하고 현대 패션에 그의 영향이 계속 미치고 있는 이유를 설명하려 하였다.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

As modern society advances, women's self-consciousness and attitudes toward beautiful appearances have changed. Amid this trend, the young and slim body of adolescent girls expressed in contemporary fashion incites fantasy on continuing youth among women. In modern society, women's youth is frequently regarded as a subject of consumption and a sex product in the mass media. In this regard, the study is focused on examining desire and psychology of worshipping women's youth and beauty in connection with flapper fashion in the 1920s. In the process, the study took a look at the social and cultural background of flapper fashion and conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and aesthetic sense of flapper fashion as follows: First, the formative characteristics include a short skirt that expresses straight lined shape and the beauty of exposure, lighter clothing, thick make-up, short hair style and black or vivid colors, and they lead to exceptional and innovative aesthetic sense in flapper fashion. Flapper fashion style is focused on completely denying outdated fashion worn by women in the age right before. Second, pursuit of mature, graceful and classical beauty that had continued in previous ages has gone through complete changes in the flapper era in the name of pursuit of youth, and the flapper fashion expresses sensual image through the exposure of slim arms and legs of a young girl. In the formative characteristics, aesthetic sense of youth and sensuality inherent in the flapper fashion was generated. Third, women's free-spirited lifestyle at that time and 'aesthetic sense of freedom and amusement that reflected the speed of machine civilization could be found in the flapper fashion. Material and decoration of the flapper fashion pertained to clothing that enabled a free expression through rapid movements. Aesthetic sense of the flapper fashion generated in the process could be defined as women's internal determination to express individual and free-spirited ideas through the use of fashion when tradition and order of the old age were torn down. And this aesthetic sense is continuously affecting modern fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2000

This study focuses on the Zen style in contemporary fashion which presents itself as one of the dominant cultural phenomena these days. After investigating the basic concepts and features of the Zen style and examining its birth and development, this study moves on to the ways in which it is characteristically applied for the world of fashion. This study is also performed both by the theoretical research on related books and papers for the explication of main concepts and by the practical research on fashion magazines and works of famous fashion designers for the presentation of more detailed illustration. When we are talking about postmodernism, which is a reaction against or a continuation of modernism, as a cultural dominant shown up in the late twentieth century, the Zen style itself can be regarded as a typical representation of postmodernism in fashion. Although the Zen style can be viewed as sharing the basic principles with minimalism which is a main branch of modernism, it is strongly in line with postmodernism (which is human-centered) in that its fundamental idea is based on emotions and feelings of human beings and the purity of natural world. As above, ZEN is a crossover phenomenon between postmodernism and modernism. In this sense, it is said that within the name of postmodernism the Zen style has satisfied our desire to present our inner world of mind with the help of regional philosophy (in this case Oriental one). The four main aspects of the Zen style in fashion are following : simplicity connected with the Oriental moderation, the use of the Oriental silhouette and detail, the destruction of form, and the nature-friendly attitude. These will be under close examination in this study.