• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.29-46
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• 1980

The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.34-49
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• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.33-50
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• 2010

This study was conducted as a preparation for the operation of 2007 revised curriculum and an effort towards professional development for Home Economics teachers in clothing life culture area. The aim of this study was to develop an teacher training program based on the clothing life culture in three kingdoms period, apply it to teacher training, and evaluate the program by analyzing the purpose of participation, trainee expectation and gratification, change of recognition level about Han culture, trainee satisfaction, and willingness to apply to teaching and attend further training program. The characteristic of the training program was that it consisted of both highly qualified lectures on professional contents and practices with school classroom level, and it dealt with the ancient korean clothing as its central subject. The purpose of the training program was to elevate the recognition of Han culture and increase the possibility of application in the classroom situation. It showed that the trainees participated with high intrinsic motivations, aiming to improve their professionalism in subject content and expecting various subject content. It also showed that the trainee gratification was very high in professional knowledge of clothing culture area, and the trainees were gratified in most evaluation items. As to the recognition level of korean culture, even before the training program, it was generally higher than average. After the program, it increased meaningfully. Through the training program, the trainees became feel prouder of Han culture and people and themselves as Home economics teachers. The contents of the program were considered very helpful for the improvement of professionalism and the design of instruction and learning activity. It was revealed that Home Economics teachers had very high expectations of the development of instruction-learning models which could enable them to experience new and interesting ideas, help enhance their professionalism, and be applied to their teaching. Therefore, continuous development and operation of the teacher training program relating to the life culture such as clothing, food, and housing life are needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.51-66
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to fashion-design the image of Cleopatra on the basis of Cleopatra's characteristic, clothing and its symbolic meaning shown in movie . In movie , Cleopatra(69B.C-30B.C) is described as passionate, intelligent, dignified person and even as enchantress. Costume that Cleopatra wears compound the type of ancient Egyptian costume in New Kingdom, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. Their color and pattern also symbolizes religion by adding ancient Egyptian myths to show the absolute royal authority. Therefore, design concepts, determined on the base of Cleopatra's characteristic and symbol meaning, are applied to make creative costume with Cleopatra's image of God Isis. In order to show Cleopatra's dignity, confidence, territorial ambition, black is used as a general base color. To represend Cleopatra's passion and the image of Isis, red is used. And the word 'Kemeto' represents all these symbols. As a whole, dress named 'Kemeto of Cleopatra' is designed and created.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.121-143
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• 1982

Many studies have done on Egyptian Clothing because its unique characteristic culture. However, I was facinated by the exhibitions of Tutankhamen burial treasures which were shown in San Francisco and New York in 1978 and 1979. I found out myself that there are several interesting aspects of clothing to compare 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun and other dynasties in Egyptian culture. Therefore, I tryed to analized the Egyptian clothing including accessaries with theigr symbols durin 18th dynasty King, Tutankhamun. The most of people were shocked and amazed when they toured the exhibition of Tutankhamun articles which were the most incredible burial treasures in existence today. The body of the King has been embalmed, bandaged and fitted in eight layers of coffins with pure gold mask to represent the god Osiris. Among eight layers of coffins, one is pure solid gold in mummiform, two of mummiforms are made of compact wood covered with sheets of gold and inlaid with multi-colored glass-paste and semi-precious stones. The Egyptian belived that the soul continued to exist throughout eternity if it had passed on examination of its deeds on earth at a "Last Judgement" presided over by Osiris. They also believed that the mummified body could exist in the tomb as a habitation that the soul could revisited. Thus a proper burial was vital for a full existence in the hereafter. They buried dead person in the sealed vault of the tomb with some of the possessions he had used during his life time, such as his furniture, clothing and jewels. In this studies, I've tried to research to various clothings, and accessories with their symbols used during 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun. The studies are shown as: I) Clothings of Tutankhamun dynasity of Kalasiris, Sheath skirt. Gala skirt, Loin skirt, Hike and Dalmatic. The Dalmatic was first seen in this dynasty. Probably the Roman Christian borrowed the Dalmatica from Egyptian Dalmatic. No where has the same design at the period. II) Egyptian of 18th dynasty Tutankhamun wore big headdress, broad collar necklace passium, pendants, armlets, rings and earrings with very beautiful, exquisite handcraft. They seem the first people who wore earrings in Egyptian history. III) The symbols of decorated items vulture, lotus...Upper Egypt Uraeus, papyrus...Lower Egypt scaravaeus, Nile Riber...rebirth man(Ankh), +...eternal life solar disc, gold...sun ostrich-feather...nobleness God, Horus' eye...protection against enemy IV) Also Egyptian prefered the straight line and a right angle which were the basic principles of architectural arrangement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.159-176
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• 1994

This study's purpose is to find the ancient costume of the folk song's words on Dunhuang manuscripts in the background wass-carvings sculptures and several art works. Dunhuang had played the part of major route between ancient China and Europe. It is located on kam-suksong the west of China. 1. In the aspect of costume arrangement hair Styling is represented by Naegagyo, Wangyesa, Kyongburak, Bonkwyun, Pogurak, Chonsonja, Namgaja, Tongson-ga, Ojesa, Chanboja in Dunhuang manuscripts. tugue is sim-ilar to Sabyokkwanja in Naegagyo as of that time these kinds of Kwan-ja was very popular. It was told that emperor's wife concubine and maid of honor would wear kwnaja favorably. And the kinds of Tugeu is PuyongKwyunkye, Aangunkye, Chunkye from Kyuwanjon except Sangunkye, Ounkye in Dunhuangsa. 2. Jangdaegy is guoted from Kyuw-anjon -A series of the chinese history book-tells us about women's make-up . The narmes of make-up are Hongjang Unjan--g, Yiljang chwejang, Tam-ajang Murgjang, Sanagjang, Light-make up are referred in Naegagyo is included as packjang Besides we can find other make-up skills Huphwaro and Rujang from the Kaewonch onbon-wisa which was Yangkwibi's episodes. We can find the a corpus of song's words about cosmetic custom in Kor-ea. Which is 'Haecho' folk song in the souther-en costal regions 'Jinggum' folk song in Kim-hae regions and so on.... It's words is similar to Dunhuangsa in China. 3. Bichun inherited to China with India Bud-dism art in the middle of Dunhuang wall-pain-tings is one of the important Buddist saint. Sometimes it is painted with Giakchun Its arms of fly-dnacing in heaven with colored belt on body has almost the form of play on the musical instrument, We can see seasily the form in the painting of Buddist ser-mon. It was progressed and changed with the background of chinese traditional culture. When Dang's period came the color was chan-ged lighting dark blue has rhythmical and viv-id power of life. 4. Among the corpus of song's words which express the singers' system and rites of their tradition or habits. Dunhuang manuscripts des-cribes on behalf of the folk song's words in tra-ditional costume. This is following: (1) Naegagyo o sabyokwanja o Chyrasam o Rashang (2) Wangyesa o Sokryugun o Costume for fisher man (3) Bungajang of the chanboja o Ajang (4) Pongkwyun o Chongui (5) Tongsongs o Junofore (6) Namgaja o thin-Rasam (7) Yuchungnang o Hongsam o Sokryugun : The color of red costume (8) Kyongburak o Hongrasam o Sokryugun : Costume for charming woman Therefore traditional costume could be extracted according to the Dunhuang folk song's words out of culture such as learning rit-es three-obedience four-virtues and in-struction. As the same time it reflects ancient China's characteristics directly. I would endeavor to development for the history of the costume furher creative design and participat-ed in research activity with concerns forward continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.15-31
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• 2000

1. After the Chu Dynasty(周代), we can confirm the fish shape mark made of stones as the relics of the Chunkuk dynasty(戰國時代). In the Shu Dynasty(隋代), the system of bamboo and the rabbit shape mark made of silver into the fish shape mark. As it were, made of bamboo or siltier changed into the fish shape mark made of jade, gold, silver or wood. 2. In the Dang Dynasty(唐代), the used the fish shape credit mark made of jade, gold, silver, copper or textile, according to their classes. According to one's posit the man who wore purple, red coat, credit mark made a gold and silver. attached with putting them in fish bags. 3. In the Ryo Dynasty(遼代), there was also a system of attaching marks. The emperor was hanging the fish shape and the officials attached the double fish shape to the common dress. fish shape of jade. gold, amber, agate, silver or copper. without any fish bag. 4. The Song Dynasty(宋代) followed the system of the Dang Dynasty they used only the fish shape bags without marks in them. Hanging the fish shape bags made of gold and silver at the back side of the belt. 5. The Gin Dynasty(金代) carried out the system of made jade, gold or silver like the Dang, Song and Ryo Dynasty. In the Sejong Kingdom a system of paper card was carried out as the credit mark of the eighth and the ninth grade. 6. In the Ming Dynasty(明代), the military official general attached the golden, silver, ivory of jade, wood and copper cards with their positions and names. 7. Following the Dang Dynasty, Japan made of fish shape bags to their clothes. Colors of their fish shape marks were same as their clothes. They made the marks, such as crystal, cow's horn, lead and nickel and plated them with gold or silver. 8. In Korea, Pohai(발해) established the fish shape credit mark differed in material. gold, silver or copper according to their positions. We can confirm the Unified Silla(南國;統一新羅), carried out the system of attaching the fish shape in Chonma Chong(천마총), Golden Crown Chong(金冠塚), the King's 13-17 belt ring unearthed at the north part of Court South threat Chong(황남대총), the fish shape golden or silver, to their purple or red ceremonial coats. In the Koryo Dynasty(高麗), like the Dang, Song and Pohai, they attached the fish shape golden or silver marks, to their purple or red ceremonial coats.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.15 no.9
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• pp.61-71
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• 2015

Developing cultural contents in cultural creativity industry is very practical process recently. Research about Jeju's legend and myth should be the basic theory for cultural contents development based on local cultures. Jeju Naewotdang Musindo 10 gods paintings are unique colored pictures, appointed as Jeju folklore material No.7 and national important folklore material No. 240. Jeju-Do is remained the springhead of absorbed into unique culture for a long time because of Jeju's geographical environment condition. Jeju Musindo could be related with the symbol of Jeju's myth images and the springhead of emotions of our typical country people. It would be analysed by Wucius Wong's design style theory for approaching visual image and symbolic meaning. This research about Jeju Naewotdang Musindo 10 gods paintings could provide design analysis methodology for further theoretical studies about Jeju's legend and myth for Jeju's unique cultural contents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.945-956
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• 2001

The costume for gods in the Ancient Roman myth was studied by examining in the embossed-carving, sculptures, mural-painting and various documents of the period. The clothes item, hairstyle, symbol & ornaments and shoes of the gods in the Roman myths were analyzed to understand the formative process in the religious costumes, and results are as follows. First, the costumes for male gods are the same as those for ordinary men lived in ages, including toga, paludamentum, tebenna, tunica. The costumes for female gods are also the same as those for ordinary women lived in ages, including stola, palla, tunica. Second, the hairstyle of male gods is short curled-hair, twisty roll-up hair and braid long-hair due to the influence of Etrurian in the early days. Another hairstyle is appeared in form of the laurelled-crown. The hairstyle of female gods is curled long-hair, chignon style and braid roll-up hair decorated with hairband. Third, the symbol & ornaments which represent the responsible possession of male gods, are appeared in beard, a stick of the message, arrow-case, offering-dish, antlered-glass, shield, spear-handle, as the superhuman forms, such as the lightning shape. For female gods they are is appeared plastron, a stick of the message, flower. some female gods wear necklace, foot-ring, bracelet. Fourth, male gods wear shoes in forms of sandal, buskin, boots, but all female gods are in barefoot. It could be explained by the fact that a man-centered society in the ancient roman is reflected in the world of gods. As mentioned, Gods costume in Roman myths was very similar to or nothing different from the ordinary peoples in Rome. However, they used corps, sacrifices or sepcific symbols depending on the fields that they were responsible for in order to be distinguished from the ordinary people. This is the result from the peoples expression that they should keep a close relationship with Gods hoping to be protected, and rely on them under whatever circumstances.