• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.945-953
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• 2014

This study aims to develop protective pants to relieve impact from falls and to present basic data for the development. The survey results are as follows; First, 45% of the respondents were in their 60s and 55% of them were in their over 70s and older. Also, 64% of them have fallen once for the past year and 36% of them have fallen twice or more. The older they were, the more there were those who have fallen twice or more. This indicated the older people has experienced more fall accidents again after a initial fall accident. Second, as per accident situations, the survey showed that fall accidents happened the most in the winter and in the afternoon (12-18 pm). Also, it happened on a street mostly and they were wearing sneakers or hiking boots when they got a hurt slipped in a front or side by missing their step in a walk. The injury areas are mostly knee and ankle. They had the bruises or a sprain in their knee and ankle mostly. The rate of bone fracture was 19.5%. Therefore, the protection area to falls in lower body is the knee. But hip and hip joint should be protected with knee as well because those are usually be broken when it is damaged. Third, approximately 80% of those who were hospitalized for treatment had surgery. Patients who had surgery were rather in their over 70s than in their 60s. The older they were, the more serious their fracture was. The period of hospital or outpatient treatment is more than three weeks in many cases. They responded their health got worse after falls. Aftereffects of accidents were physical discomfort, anxiety and medical costs. Falls to the old makes physical damage, psychological damage, which cause reduced physical activity and the increased cost of health care with economic losses. So it results on a negative impact on the life of the old. Fourth, elderly females were rarely aware of impact protective clothing and they have never purchased such clothing. For impact protective pants, the major consideration was suitable design for their body types. They liked casual style with front or side pockets and simple designs without any patterns or decorations. As per pants materials, they responded that they need functionality, activity and elasticity. Among the functional points, insulation of cloths are considered importantly, so the heat reservance of material in the impact protective pants should be considered carefully.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.614-628
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to analyze research trends and make suggestions regarding the future of information technology (IT) in the fashion industry. In this study, 437 papers written regarding IT fashion from five major journals published between 2000 and 2011 were examined. The research areas were then organized by subject and keyword, and divided into 16 high-context categories. Two IT fashion maps were constructed, one from a fashion consumer's perspective, and the other based on the fashion industry's supply chain. This study identified important trends in IT fashion such as: 3D scanners, 3D digital renderings of the human form, 3D digital garments, smart garments, mass customization, production automation, online shopping, home shopping, online communities, e-commerce, digital media, virtual reality, e-tail, the digital generation, E-CRM, and education. Data from body scans was collected and applied to production, and research on smart textiles was also carried out. As for IT fashion's service areas, the majority of the research focused on online shopping or online communication. Additionally, research done on avatars and cyber space, and studies on social networking services are shown. The results of this study indicated that a new field of research has opened and that current research has been developing. Also, this study showed what is needed to expand and strengthen IT fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.657-665
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• 2015

This study evaluated the thermoregulatory properties of functional thermal underwear ('heating underwear') in markets using a thermal manikin and human wear trials. One ordinary thermal underwear (ORD) and two functional thermal underwear (HEAT1 and HEAT2; manufactured goods, HEAT1: moisture absorbing heat release mechanism, HEAT2: heat storage, release mechanism) were chosen. Thermo-physiological and subjective responses were evaluated at an air temperature of $5.0{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and air humidity of $30{\pm}5%RH$ with five male subjects ($21.6{\pm}1.3yr$ in age, $178.0{\pm}5.9cm$ in height, $68.2{\pm}5.9kg$ in body mass). Experimental conditions consisted of four ensembles that included winter clothes (Control: no underwear, ORD, HEAT1, HEAT2). Water-vapor resistance was greater in fabric of HEAT1 than others. The results were: 1) Total thermal insulation (IT) using a thermal manikin were not greater for HEAT1 (0.860clo) and HEAT 2 (0.873clo) than for ORD (0.886clo). 2) There were no significant differences in rectal temperature, mean skin temperature, heart rate and total body mass loss between the four conditions. Microclimate clothing temperature on the back was greater for ORD than for HEAT1 and HEAT2. Subjects felt more comfortable with HEAT1 than for others at rest. HEAT2 was higher in microclimate humidity when compared to other conditions. The results suggest that thermoregulatory properties of 'heating underwear' in market did not differ from those of ordinary thermal underwear in terms of total thermal insulation and thermoregulatory responses in a cold environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1681-1692
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• 2001

본 연구는 광복 이후 현재까지 첫돌 복식 변화를 시대적으로 고찰, 그 변화 양상과 영 향 요인을 규명하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌 고찰과 사진 자료를 통한 내용 분석을 주로 하였다. 더불어 자료의 보충을 위해 첫돌 의례와 관련된 주변 인물들-가족, 기성 아동 한복 유통 상인, 상업적 사진사 등-의 면접 조사도 병행하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1940년대 중반∼50년대 초에는 해방 이후 혼란과 전란으로 인한 물자의 부족으로 첫돌 의례의 명분은 남아있으나 복식 문화는 공백기를 맞는다. 1950년대 중반이후 60년대 전반기는 미국의 경제 원조와 섬유 공업 활성화로 의료의 공급이 원활하여 전기에 비해 의례적 의미를 지닌 첫돌 복식의 착용이 가능해 졌다. 전통 한복을 기본으로 한 위에 서양식 복식 품목들이 섞여서 나타나고 있다 60년대 후반에서 1970년대의 두드러진 양상은 기성복 산업 의 발달로 전문적 인 기성복 시장이 형성되었고 이는 기성복화 된 첫돌 복식의 일습 개념을 등장시키게 하였다. 또한 한복이 예복화 되는 경 향이 두드러지게 나타났던 시기로 70년대 후반의 칼라 필름의 보급은 금박과 자수와 같은 다양한 재료와 재단 방법을 사용한 장식화 된 첫돌 복식의 사용을 가속화 시 켰다. 특히 70년대 중반에 소수의 일반에게 입혀졌던 궁중복식의 하나인 당의가 소매없는 당의로 바뀌어 여아의 돌옷으로 입혀지기 시작하였다. 1980년대 전반기는 칼라 TV의 보급, 비디오 촬영의 보편화로 한복이던 양복이던 일습화 된 첫돌 복식이 대중적으로 정착하게 되었다. 후반기에는 국내의 국제적인 행사의 유치와 전통 복식 소개를 위한 전시들을 계기로 왕실 복식에 대한 관심이 고조되었다. 이로 인해 여아에게 소매없는 당의를 입히고 남아에게 용포를 입히는 유행이 가속화되었다. 또한 서양식 예복을 입히는 유행이 시작되었다. 90년대에 들어와 아기 전문사진점의 등장은 1 회적인 첫돌 의례에 한복과 서양식 예복, 일상복 등을 다양하게 착용시키는 계기를 가져오게 하였다. 이상과 같은 다양한 변화 양상에도 불구하고 첫돌을 기념하기 위해 특별한 옷을 마련하고자 했으며, 그 복식의 구성 이 전통적인 일습 개념을 꾸준히 지향해 온 경향을 보여주고 있다. 반면 최근 과열된 아동 산업은 보다 다양한 복식을 입혀서 촬영한 사진으로 특별하게 꾸민 상업적인 기념물들을 남겨주게 하고 있다. 비록 특별한 옷을 준비하여 아동에게 입히는 행위는 유사한 표현 양태이나 지나치게 많은 옷을 갈아 입히는 표현 방식은 지양되어야할 것이다

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.471-475
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• 2006

The summary of a study of efficacy of Rose essential oil and Lavender essential oil against skin-inflammation caused to surfactant is as follows. As a result of protein analysis, although Rose essential oil and Lavender essential oil stimulates skin, there is no much alteration of protein. The alteration of protein's bend to be under part of 43Kd is appeared in the group treated Rose essential oil and Lavender essential oil. The stratum of the group treated by surfactant is more, the stratum of the group treated by surfactant is more thick. As the observed result of alteration of basal layer, it is seen that the group treated Rose essential oil and Lavender essential oil takes the shape of cell layer constant, and the group treated Rose essential oil is made the basal cell layer of normal structure than that of Lavender essential oil. As the observed result of alteration of Mast cell group treated by Rose essential oil and Lavender essential oil for 3 weeks Luna's stain(${\times}20$), (${\times}100$), it is observed that the damaged group treated by Lavender essential oil is numerous in alteration of mast cell's number, and Mast cell's size is larger than the damaged group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.193-202
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• 2012

With entering the 21st century, modern people's dark inside and panic are emerging as the talking point on the theater stage. Even in the field of stage costume, the necessity of a research is being demanded through analyzing on psychological anguish and structure of characters. Accordingly, this study aims to allow the stage costume design to be expressed a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, which was elicited through analyzing a work of the play titled Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial by a playwriter Fernando Arrabal, who draws the conflictory and contradictory duplicity, which positions in a human being's deep inside by having chaos as catalyst. A research subject is 'Le Grand C$\acute{e}$r$\acute{e}$monial,' which was staged as the winter performance in commemoration of the 50th anniversary for the foundation of Dept. of Theater, Chung-Ang Univ. in November 2009. Psychology of characters in a play, which varies dimensionally, could be delivered, as nonverbal element called costume, by applying costume design of Cavanoza, Syl, Nice to Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image such as Innocence vs Cruelty, Purity vs Superficiality and Restraint vs Freedom, which were elicited through analyzing characters. Through this study, the costume, which was expressed by visualizing a human being's Doppelg$\ddot{a}$nger Image, could be known to function as important dramatic factor of allowing character's psychology to be understood through costume as well as functioning as visual and sensible language, which is important for communication with the audience. A research on costume design, which reflects a character's complex inside, is expected to be likely continued through in-depth analysis on a playwriter's intention and on the appearing characters at the current point of time when an active research is being performed on stage costume in the wake of this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.808-817
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to verify potential differences in group- specific external feature concerns and beauty care behaviors of Korean women in their 20's~40's depending on their narcissistic propensity. This study is to take psychological approaches to narcissistic propensity of our contemporary society, so that it can get better understanding about consumers and provide marketing data on beauty-related industry. To meet the above goals, total 400 sheets of questionnaire were distributed to subjects from March 30 to April 8, 2009. Out of 376 sheets of questionnaire collected, total 355 valid questionnaires except incomplete 21 ones were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, this study used SPSS 12.0 as statistic program to perform factor analysis, reliability test (Cronbac's ${\alpha}$ coefficient), cluster analysis, t-test, analysis of variance (ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test and multiple regression analysis. As a result, this study could come to the following findings: First, according to cluster analysis depending upon different factors such as self-directed narcissism, others-conscious narcissism and others-sensitive narcissism, it was found that our women in 20's to 40's could fall into 4 groups, i.e. complex narcissism group, mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group. Second, according to analysis on potential differences in external feature concerns among four groups depending on their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Third, according to analysis on differences in beauty care behaviors among four groups depending upon their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Fourth, according to analysis on potential factors of external feature concerns that may influence beauty care behaviors of complex narcissism group, it was found that those factors had significant effects on fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery and personality pursuit of this group. And it was also found that there were significant differences in fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery, makeup and hair styling of mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.321-326
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of body fat on energy metabolic response and subjective sensations under the hot environment. Fifteen female university students volunteered as subjects. We organized subjects into three groups: low body fat group(group L : less than 20% of body fat), medium body fat group(group M : 20%~30% of body fat) and high body fat group(group H: more than 30% of body fat). The experiment was conducted with $32^{\circ}C$, 60%RH. The subjects repeated 'Exercise' and 'Rest' period. The results of this study are as follows ; The oxygen uptake value of AM is higher than PM. The value of group H is the highest in three fat groups. But it showed group L is the highest in oxygen uptake per weight. %body fat is the lower, oxygen uptake is the higher. In Calorie, group L has higher value in AM in than in PM. In M group and group H, a value of PM is higher than AM. In group H, difference of AM and PM is the highest. From a view point of three groups, a value of group H is the highest. This support that calorie increases as oxygen uptake increase. The heart rate values of group L and group H are the higher in AM than in PM. This support that heart rate was relation to oxygen uptake. In all three groups, the value of blood pressure is higher in AM than in PM. Subjective sensations of temperature sensation, thermal comfort, and wetness sensation are higher in Am than in Pm. This explains that subject sensations are similar to experimental data, such as oxygen uptake, heart rate, blood pressure. In oxygen uptake, heart rate and blood pressure, general tend to showed higher AM than PM. This showed that heart rate, oxygen uptake increase in AM, as blood pressure increase, too. From a view point of %body fat, group H is higher than the others in oxygen uptake, heart rate and blood pressure.