• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2017

This study intends to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol type contained in the grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE), utilizing grape stems being discarded after harvest, measure the effects on the skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory on the damaged skin of a HR-1 mice induced with UVB, and verify the applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The results of verifying the photoprotection effects through the skin proliferation control through of GPSE showed similar result to suncream was achieved at the GPSE concentration of 2,000 mg/kg on the epidermis (p<0.05). The results showed anti-inflammatory effects on all groups applied with GPSE as compared to the control group irradiated with UVB, but at the GPSE concentration of 1,000 mg/kg, a lower COX-2 protein expression at 8%, lower than the 22% of suncream, was observed to achieve an excellent anti-inflammatory effect (p<0.05). The results of this study confirmed the existence of active polyphenol type, such as rutin, kaempferol, querocetin and procyanidin B3, within the GPSE, and GPSE has improvement effects on moisturizing effects, skin proliferation control effect, inflammatory control effect and improvement effects on the skin barrier function through UV ray damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and has high utilization as an ingredient for functional food and functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2023

This study was conducted to discover substances that regulate skin surface acidification using human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and to investigate their effects on the moisturizing ability and skin barrier function of the stratum corneum. Prunella vulgaris (P. vulgaris) is an herb widely distributed in Northwest Africa and North America that has been studied for its anti-apoptotic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. However, research on the regulation of NHE1 expression and the restoration of skin barrier function has not been conducted. Analysis of P. vulgaris revealed the presence of rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid as active ingredients, which were tested for toxicity in human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), and showed no toxic effects were observed at high concentarion (100 ㎍/mL or 100 µM). It is known that sodium-hydrogen ion exchange pumps (NHE1) decrease in expression in aging skin to maintain the acidic pH of the stratum corneum, and it is hypothesized that this decrease plays an important role in the impaired restoration of skin barrier function in aging skin. P. vulgaris extract and caffeic acid increased the expression of NHE1 in keratinocytes, increased the expression of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) precursor filaggrin and ceramide synthesis enzyme serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT). In addition, P. vulgaris and caffeic acid decreased the extracellular pH of keratinocytes, indicating a direct effect on skin pH regulation. Taken together, these results suggest that P. vulgaris and caffeic acid can regulate skin pH through NHE1 modulation, and may help to restore skin barrier function by increasing NMF and ceramide synthesis. These results show the possibility that honeysuckle and caffeic acid can have a positive effect on skin health, and can be the basis for the development of new skin protection products using them.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2012

The safety of cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients on human skin is generally evaluated by visual assessment but some early subtle skin changes may not be noticed by the naked eyes. Thus, the present study was conducted to detect skin reactions induced by mildly irritating cosmetic ingredients by using a laser Doppler perfusion imager (LDPI) method that measures blood flow, a $Vapometer^{(R)}$ that measure strans epidermal water loss (TEWL), and a spectrophotometer that measures the skin color as the erythema values ($a^*$). Visual assessment showed that all tested oils and humectants except propylene glycol belong to the low skin irritation ranges (grades 0+ to 2.9+) while all tested surfactants and propylene glycol belong to the moderate-to strong-skin irritation ranges (grades 3+ to 5+). Among three instrumental methods, TEWL assessment appeared to be more sensitive than spectrophotometric or LDPI method and suitable for the detection of subtle skin response invisible to the naked eye (grades 0+ to 2.9+). Skin reactions of grade 3+ to 5+ could be detected by all three instrumental methods. In conclusion, the current study suggested that the sub-clinical skin reactions due to mild irritants contained in cosmetics can be best assessed by TEWL measurements.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.223-237
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• 2009

본 임상연구는 임상연구 모집 공고를 통하여 모집된 대상자 중 Atopic Dermatitis Research Group (2005) 한국인 아토피 피부염 진단기준에 따라 아토피 피부염으로 판정되고 현재 약물(한약, 양약)치료나 외용제 치료를 하고 있지 않은 만 5$\sim$50세의 아토피 피부염 환자를 대상으로 하였다. 피험자들을 이중맹검, 블록무작위배정하여 시험군과 대조군으로 나누어 6주간의 시험기간 동안 육안적 평가, 혈액학적 검사, 피부측정 장비를 통한 기기적 평가를 시험 전후에 실시하여, 시험군에 사용된 제품이 대조군 사용된 제품에 비하여 얼마나 효과적으로 아토피 피부염으로 손상된 피부 장벽을 회복하는지 관찰하였다. 본 임상시험을 통해 'Atomento solution & cream'이 손상된 피부장벽을 회복시키고 피부 보습력을 증가시켜 아토피 피부염에 효과적이었으며, 인체에 이상반응이나 부작용 없이 안전하게 사용될 수 있음을 확인하였다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.186-201
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• 2002

Fructan(Levan)은 식물체 및 미생물에서 발견되는 탄수화물로 이는 과당(fructose)이 $\beta$-2, 6 결합으로 연결되어 있는 polysaccaride 이다. 본 연구에서는 Fructan을 생성하는 미생물(Zymomonas mobilis)과 10% sucrose(기질), 1-2% 효모 추출물을 주성분으로 하는 배지를 사용하여 30-37$^{\circ}C$, pH 5.0-7.0에서 20-24시간 동안 배양한후 원심분리하여 균체를 제거하고 3배량의 알코올을 가하여 침전, 건조하여 얻은 Fructan의 화장품 원료로서의 가능성을 조사하였다. 보습효과에 있어서는 Hyaluronic acid와 유사하였으며, keratinocyte에 대한 세포증식 효과를 나타내었다. 또한 3-D culture에 의해 구축된 생인공 피부내에 0.05%의 sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)를 사용하여 피부자극에 의한 초기 염증 반응을 유도한후 0.01mg/m1, 0.05mg/m1의 Fructan을 각각 처리하였을 때, SLS만을 처리한 생인공피부와 비교하여 세포증식효능을 보였고, SLS 자극물질로 유도된 전염증성 조절인자인 interleukin-l$\alpha$(IL-l$\alpha$)의 분비량을 조사 하였을때 0.01mg/ml, 0.05mg/ml의 Fructan을 처리한 생인공피부의 IL-l$\alpha$ 양이 Fructan을 처리하지 않은 것보다 상대적으로 감소하였다. 이러한 결과로 Fructan이 생인공 피부내 피부 세포의 증식효과를 나타낼 뿐만 아니라, 또한 피부자극물질에 의한 염증반응에 대해 자극완화효능이 있음을 알 수 있었다. 섬유아세포 및 동물을 이용한 안전성 시험에서도 독성이 없는 안전한 원료로 평가되었다.

• Proceedings of the KAIS Fall Conference
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• 2012.05a
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• pp.229-231
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• 2012

Hyaluronic acid(HA)는 보습성, 생체적합성, 고점도성의 특징이 있는 수용성 다당류로 분자량에 따라 보습, 탄성, 점성 등이 달라진다. 또한 피부의 침투성 또한 분자량에 가장 큰 영향을 받는다. 본 연구에서는 HA를 저분자화하여 10만Da-1천Da의 저분자 히알론론산을 제조하고 이를 아세틸화하여 항주름 및 항염활성을 측정한 결과 분자량이 낮은 분자량일 수록 우수한 항주름 및 항염활성을 나타내었으며 아셀틸화한 것이 하지 않은 것에 비하여 높은 항주름 및 항염활성을 나타 내었다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.457-462
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• 2004

Anti-wrinkle effect of N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG) was evaluated by collagen synthesis and proliferation of normal human fibroblast. NAG was obtained by purifying deacetylated chitin which can be derived from chitin-rich crab shell. We studied in in-vitro cultures of human normal fibroblast, whether synthesis of collagens and fibroblast growth activation in these cells can be enhanced in the presence of NAG. It 야d not show any adverse effects in human shin irritation patch test. In in-vivo mouse test, it showed anti-wrinkle effect in hairless mouse (6W/F). From the HPLC analysis, the stability of NAG in the cosmetics product could be maintained for a long time. These results demonstrated that NAS can be useful anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.247-257
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• 2014

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions of astaxanthin prepared by new vesicle, glyceryl citrate/ lactate/ linoleate/ oleate, were evaluated thoroughly in terms of cosmeceutical properties such as antioxidant effect, cell viability, influence of protein related enzyme, skin penetration, skin hydration and elasticity. Antioxidant effect and cell viability of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin were evaluated by DPPH and MTT assay. Also other properties of nanoemulsions of astaxanthin were measured by proteome analysis using 2D-PAGE, confocal laser scanning microscope and in-vivo test. We were able to find that the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin is good at scavenging of radical and inhibits the degradation of dermal extracellular matrix with the down-regulation of MMPs and other proteins related to MMP expression. CLSM was adopted for observing penetration of nanoemulsion of astaxanthin and showed high effective penetration rate compared to the nanoemulsion of astaxanthin prepared by conventional lecithin. In-vivo measurement of the nanoemulsions in hydration and elasticity were conducted to 11 Korean female adults for 28 days and showed better results.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.27-44
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• 2003

전반적인 피부세포의 생리적 지능 자하로 인한 자연노화와 더불어, 여러 피부 스트레스 요인들이 다양하게 작용하여 발생하는 외인성노화를 방지하거나, 개선할 수 있는 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성을 알아보기 위해, 예로부터 항염활성이 있다고 알려진 oleanolic acid(OA)를 포함한 ursolic acid(UA), betulin, betulinic acid(BA) 등의 triterpenoids가 어떻게 피부에서의 항노화 활성을 나타내는지를 알아보았다. 시험 결과, OA는 자외선에 의한 각질형성세포에서의 PGE$_2$ 생성과 섬유아세포(NHF)에 의한 matrix metalloproteinase-1(MMP-1) 분비를 억제하였다. 그리고, NHF의 procollagen 생성을 촉진하였으며, 이런 procollagen 생성촉진활성이 in vivo에서도 발현되는 것을 무모생쥐의 실험을 통해서 확인하였다. 또한 OA는 각질세포의 증식과 분화를 촉진하여 표피세포로 하여금 세라마이므와 필라그린 생성을 증가시키도록 하는 작용도 있음을 보여주었다. 더불어 실험한 UA, betulin, BA 들은 비록, betulin, BA의 경우 세포 독성이 다른 물질 들에 비해 높았고, UA가 각질세포의 분화를 오히려 억제하는 양상을 보이기는 했지만, 대부분의 기능은 OA와 유사하였다. 피부세포보호작용과 진피 기질물질에 대한 작용, 그리고, 표피의 장벽기능과 보습기능에 대해 시험한 본 연구는, 식물성분인 triterpenoids가 피부를 위한 항노화소재로서의 개발 가능성이 있음을 확인하는 계기가 되었고, 그 중에서도 OA가 보다 우수한 항노화 소재가 될 수 있음을 시사하고 있다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.95-102
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• 2024

With the recent trend towards the legalization and relaxation of regulations surrounding medical cannabis, the diverse benefits of cannabis extracts are being scientifically validated, positioning them as promising next-generation ingredients across various fields. Compounds extracted from cannabis, such as cannabinoid (CB), cannabidiol (CBD), phytocannabinoid (pCB), and hemp seed hexane extracts (HSHE), have been shown to reduce skin inflammation, improve moisture retention exhibit strong antioxidant effects, and improve various skin conditions. In this paper, we review the effects of hemp extracts on the skin and explore their potential role as cosmetic ingredients.