• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.547-551
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• 2009

Gromwell (LE, Lithospermum erythrorhizon), a perennial herbal plant, has been used for the treatment of various problems associated with atopic dermatitis of the skin, such as water loss, epidermal hyperproliferation, and severe inflammation. Previously, it was shown that oral supplementation with a 70% ethanol extract of gromwell prevented the development of atopic dermatitis in NC/Nga mice. In this study, in order to identify the fraction that mediates gromwell's efficacy, the dietary effects of water and ethyl acetate fractions from the ethanol extract of gromwell were assessed in the development of dermatitis using NC/Nga mice. Dietary supplementation of the hot water fraction significantly reduced scores for epidermal hyperproliferation in parallel with a marked increase of ceramides. Supplementation of the gromwell hot water fraction also decreased scratching behavior, which was accompanied by a decrease in plasma levels of IgE. These results showed that the hot water fraction of the gromwell ethanolic extract prevented the development of atopic dermatitis by increasing ceramides in NC/Nga mice.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

This study is about the development of cholesteric liquid crystals (CLCs), which are highly applicable to cosmetics formulation. The CLCs made from non-animal origin were chosen not only because they are free of animal viruses but also because they give a sense of security to the cosmetic consumers. Three kinds of new cholesteric derivatives (CI, CC, CN) were synthesized using non-animal cholesterol [NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)], which was originally made by fermentation process. To develop high applicability to cosmetics formulation, we attempted to find out the optimum compositions in which CLCs can maintain their color over a wide range of temperature. The CLCs in 41 different compositions were prepared by the combinations of three cholesteric derivatives and a visual evaluation method was employed to determine the range of temperature at which the CLCs display their color. The 205 UV-VIS spectral data obtained from 41 CLCs at various temperatures were simultaneously analyzed to investigate the critical factors affecting the characteristics of the CLCs. Results showed that A4, A5, A6 and A7 were the best compositions to cosmetics formulation. A6 composition had a great moisturizing effect by the artificial skin test ($AmoReSkin^{TM}$).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.279-294
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• 2004

This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400times, 600times, 1,000times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0-10.0$\mu\textrm{m}$ be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B$\_$5/ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05)

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.73-83
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• 2015

Dendropanax morbifera Leveille (Araliaceae) is an endemic species growing in the south-western part of South Korea and has been used in folk medicine. However, the effects of Dendropanax morbifera Lev. on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we isolated 1-tetradecanol and ${\beta}$-sitosterol from the n-hexane fraction of Dendropanax mobifera Lev. and To investigate the whitening effect of the fraction, we tested the inhibition of tyrosinase activity of 1-tetradecanol. The results show that the inhibitory effect of the 1-tetradecanol was higher than water extract and n-hexane fraction. And 1-tetradecanol significantly reduced melanin contents of B16F10 cells compared to more than water extract and n-haxane fraction dose-dependantly without cell cytotoxicitiy (below $100{\mu}g/mL$). We also investigated the skin moisturizing effect using HR-1 hairless mice. The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the 1-tetradecanol treated group was significantly smaller than that in the other groups. To investigate the effect of the preventing hair loss by ${\beta}$-sitosterol, we observed HR-1 hairless mice through periodic growth feature. The results suggest that hair loss of mice by ${\beta}$-sitosterol was delayed and it's hair density showed the highest. These data provide evidence that Dendropanax morbifera Lev. may be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin whitening, moisturizing and alopecia from the point of cosmetic industry view.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.305-316
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• 2021

This study relates to the development of a new gel sheet mask that finally does not require support based on the reactivity and acid/base reaction experiments of Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG), ethanol, and polyols. When TG and a specific alcohol was mixed at a certain mixing ratio, a transparent gel is formed by reaction with each component, and thus a gel sheet mask without support might be obtained using the mixture. In order to maximize skin tone improvement, a carbonation system of acid and base reactions was introduced, and skin brightness and moisturizing power were evaluated using a spectrophotometer and a moisture measuring device. Through this study, it is expected that the gelation reaction by hydrogen bonding of TG, ethanol, and polyols can be developed into various types, and the gel sheet mask formulation introduced in this study is expected to help develop new products in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2021

Gastrodia elata has a very low pollination rate in natural state, and even in artificial cultivation, there are very few individuals that bloom due to the degeneration, so little studies have been conducted. This study confirmed that the potential as a cosmetic ingredient by evaluating the antioxidant activity through the evaluation of DPPH radical scavenging activity, anti-inflammatory activity through the inhibitory effect on nitric oxide production, and the moisturizing activity through the effect on promoting hyaluronic acid production by artificially flowering G. elata flower. It was also confirmed that the appearance rate and flowering rate of G. elata harvested in spring were high, and the content of gastrodin was 0.36%. The IC50 value of G. elata flower extract was 0.045% and it was confirmed that G. elata flower extract had higher radical scavenging activity than G. elata root extract. The NO production inhibitory activity against the flower extract showed a significant inhibitory effect from 1% to 83.2%. Hyaluronic acid production promotion efficacy was not confirmed in the G. elata root extract, but the production rate increased with concentration dependence in the flower extract, and it was the highest at 46.9% when 0.02% treatment was performed. Based on the above research results, it is judged that G. elata flower extract has high potential for use as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin moisturizing cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.97-102
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• 2005

One of the key molecules involved in skin moisture is hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid, HA) with its associated water of hydration. The predominant component of the ECM (extracellular matrix) of skin is HA. It Is the primordial and the simplest of the GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), a water-sorbed macromolecule In extracellular matrix, Included between the vital cells of epidermis. In the skin, HA was previously thought to derive extlusively from dermis. But, recent studies revealed that HA could be synthesized in epidermis. Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds that is found mainly in foods of plant origin. Kaempferol was known to increase glutathione synthesis in human keratinocyte. And quercetin blocked PPAR-meidated keratinocyte differentiation as lipoxygenase inhibitors. In this study, we sought to evaluate the effect of flavonid, kaempferol and quercetin on production HA in keratinocyte. We examined the changes of three human hyaluronan synthase genes (HASI, HAS2, HAS3) expression by semi-quantitative RT-PCR when kaempferol or quercetin was added to cultured human keratinocytes. We found that these flavonoids slightly upregulated HAS2, HAS3 mRNA after 24 h. And we investigated the effect on HA production by ELISA. When we evaluated the level of HA in culture medium after 24 h incubation. We found enhanced accumulation of HA in the culture medium. Although the effects of above flavonoids are less than retinoic acid, the data indicate that kaempferol, quercetin can dose-dependently increase the level of HA in epidermis cell line. It suggested that flavonoid, kaempferol, and quercetin increased production of HA in skin and it helped to elevate skin moisture and improve facial wrinkle.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.880-888
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• 2015

Foeniculum vulgare (FV) has long been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory diseases. In addition, it is usually known as an important medicinal and aromatic plant widely used as a carminative, digestive, lactogogue, and diuretic, and for treating respiratory and gastrointestinal disorders. The skin barrier protects against the invasion of pathogens, fends off chemical and physical assaults, and protects against extensive water loss. In this study, the effects of solvent-fractionated FV fruits on strengthening the skin barrier and maintaining moisture, as well as their antifungal activity, were investigated in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. The expression of involucrin, loricrin, filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase, human β defensin, and cathelicidin genes and proteins was measured by reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and western blotting. The production of hyaluronic acid was determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The butanol fraction increased the expression of involucrin and filaggrin. Both the ethyl acetate and the butanol fractions increased hyaluronic acid production by promoting the expression of hyaluronic acid synthase-1. Although the antimicrobial peptides were increased by FV crude extract and its fractions, the samples did not show a significant effect compared to the normal group. These results suggest that the butanol fraction of FV could be very useful in cosmetics for the treatment of dermatological diseases.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.399-404
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• 2009

This paper described the formulation of functional cosmetics and evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy in clinical test. Cosmetics were formulated with highly purified $\beta$-carotene obtained from the culture broth of recombinant E.coli cells. Edible oil for solubilizing $\beta$-carotene, vitamine E for long-term storage, detergent/stabilizer (2.0%) for the complete formation of oil/water emulsion, dimethicone (0.35%) for good skin care, and sorbitol for skin moisturizer were also added as ingredients. Physical or chemical degradation of formulated products stored at $0^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, or $40^{\circ}C$ was not observed for 60-day testing period. In clinical test, 68% of applicants observed wrinkle decrease after 8-week treatment. This result indicates that newly formulated cosmetics have strong potential for improving wrinkle skin care.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.231-241
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• 2020

In this study in order to develop new approaches we investigated using high voltage pulsed electric fields (PEF) technology to reduce the risks, protect the phyto-constituents and improve skin biological activities. After preparing a Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) extracts pretreated with PEF, components measurement and skin efficacy evaluation were performed. As a result of the content measurement, the content of polysaccharide and polyphenol were higher in the order of extracts treated with 50 Hz and 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, and the content of protein was the highest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5k V/cm. Similar to the results of the polyphenol measurements, extracts treated with 25 Hz and 50 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm showed leading DPPH scavenging ability. The cell protection effect against sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and UVB was finest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, which had the highest protein content. And the hyaluronic acid synthesis was leading in extracts treated with 50 Hz and 100 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm. Therefore, the active ingredient of the high-voltage PEF pre-treatment Chaga mushroom extract can be developed as a functional material with cell protection and moisturizing effect, and such green technology is expected to be used in various fields of cosmetics and material development.