• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.42 no.2
• /
• pp.119-126
• /
• 2016

Skin is the largest organ that protects the body from the external environmental factors such as smog, cigarette smoke, UV. Protective skin barrier is composed with keratinizational keratinocytes and intercellular lipids such as ceramides, cholesterols and fatty acids combined by the lamellar liquid crystal structure. In this research, we confirmed that the Jeju wild ginseng (JWG) extracts dose-dependently increased the expression of serine-palmitoyltransferase (SPT) protein which is associated with ceramide biosynthesis. In addition, emulsion containing 5% JWG extract was applied on skin of human volunteers for 2 weeks and then significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to that of control group. As a results, JWG extract increased the biosynthesis of ceramides that is the key components of the skin lipid through enhancing expression of SPT. In addition, JWG extract reduced TEWL resulting in improvement of skin barrier function. In this context, we suggest that JWG extract could be used as a skin barrier enhancer and moisturing agents in cosmetic fileds.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.40 no.2
• /
• pp.258-267
• /
• 2023

In this study, to investigate the possibility of using ethanol extract of Petasites japonicus (PJE) as a functional material, we investigated the activity of improving skin barrier and inflammation through UVB-induced human keratinocyte (HaCaT cell). As a result of confirming the antioxidant effect through DPPH radical scavenging activity, ABTS⁺ radical scavenging activity, and hydrogen peroxide scavenging activity, it was confirmed that it had an antioxidant effect similar to that of ascorbic acid, a control, at a concentration of 1 mg/ml. As a result of confirming the mRNA expression of the production ability of filaggrin and aquaporin-3 in HaCaT cells induced by UVB, it was confirmed that the reduced expression level by UVB stimulation increased in a concentration-dependent manner when the PJE was treated. It was confirmed that the mRNA expression of TNF-𝛼 and IL-1𝛽 were increased by UVB stimulation and decreased when the PJE was treated. As a result of the migration assay, it was confirmed that the proliferation of skin keratinocytes and the recovery rate of wounds were increased in a concentration-dependent manner. Based on the experimental results, it suggests that Petasites japonicus can be used as a functional cosmetic product that can improve skin moisturizing and skin barrier function.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.179-184
• /
• 2020

Elasticity and softness of the skin depend on the level of moisture present in the stratum corneum, which is known to be affected by various environmental changes, such as cold and hot winds and dry environments. However, not many studies have been conducted on changes in skin moisture and the degree of recovery due to individual skin differences. In the present study, we aimed to investigate the effect of warm air heating on skin hydration levels and develop moisturizing formulas to improve lowered skin hydration levels. In order to deliver warm air heating condition, heating dryer (40 ℃, 6 m/s, 30 cm apart from forearm) was applied into inner forearm of healthy subjects (male: 10, female: 39, age: 25 - 63) Among 49 subjects, 26 subjects showed significantly lowered skin hydration levels until 30 min after warm air heating exposure (lowered group). In addition, moisturizing cream with high water holding capacity was applied to forearm of 10 subjects in lowered group for 3 weeks and skin hydration levels after warm air heating were significantly improved at the levels of before application of warm air heating. From this study, we found out that there is a skin type that skin hydration levels are significantly decreased under warm air heating condition (dehydrated skin) and this dehydrated skin can be improved by moisturizing formulas with high water holding capacity.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
• /
• v.41 no.5
• /
• pp.547-551
• /
• 2009

Gromwell (LE, Lithospermum erythrorhizon), a perennial herbal plant, has been used for the treatment of various problems associated with atopic dermatitis of the skin, such as water loss, epidermal hyperproliferation, and severe inflammation. Previously, it was shown that oral supplementation with a 70% ethanol extract of gromwell prevented the development of atopic dermatitis in NC/Nga mice. In this study, in order to identify the fraction that mediates gromwell's efficacy, the dietary effects of water and ethyl acetate fractions from the ethanol extract of gromwell were assessed in the development of dermatitis using NC/Nga mice. Dietary supplementation of the hot water fraction significantly reduced scores for epidermal hyperproliferation in parallel with a marked increase of ceramides. Supplementation of the gromwell hot water fraction also decreased scratching behavior, which was accompanied by a decrease in plasma levels of IgE. These results showed that the hot water fraction of the gromwell ethanolic extract prevented the development of atopic dermatitis by increasing ceramides in NC/Nga mice.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.40 no.2
• /
• pp.141-153
• /
• 2014

This study is about the development of cholesteric liquid crystals (CLCs), which are highly applicable to cosmetics formulation. The CLCs made from non-animal origin were chosen not only because they are free of animal viruses but also because they give a sense of security to the cosmetic consumers. Three kinds of new cholesteric derivatives (CI, CC, CN) were synthesized using non-animal cholesterol [NAB cholesterol (ARCH LONZA)], which was originally made by fermentation process. To develop high applicability to cosmetics formulation, we attempted to find out the optimum compositions in which CLCs can maintain their color over a wide range of temperature. The CLCs in 41 different compositions were prepared by the combinations of three cholesteric derivatives and a visual evaluation method was employed to determine the range of temperature at which the CLCs display their color. The 205 UV-VIS spectral data obtained from 41 CLCs at various temperatures were simultaneously analyzed to investigate the critical factors affecting the characteristics of the CLCs. Results showed that A4, A5, A6 and A7 were the best compositions to cosmetics formulation. A6 composition had a great moisturizing effect by the artificial skin test ($AmoReSkin^{TM}$).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.30 no.2
• /
• pp.279-294
• /
• 2004

This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400times, 600times, 1,000times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0-10.0$\mu\textrm{m}$ be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B$\_$5/ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05)

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.41 no.1
• /
• pp.73-83
• /
• 2015

Dendropanax morbifera Leveille (Araliaceae) is an endemic species growing in the south-western part of South Korea and has been used in folk medicine. However, the effects of Dendropanax morbifera Lev. on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we isolated 1-tetradecanol and ${\beta}$-sitosterol from the n-hexane fraction of Dendropanax mobifera Lev. and To investigate the whitening effect of the fraction, we tested the inhibition of tyrosinase activity of 1-tetradecanol. The results show that the inhibitory effect of the 1-tetradecanol was higher than water extract and n-hexane fraction. And 1-tetradecanol significantly reduced melanin contents of B16F10 cells compared to more than water extract and n-haxane fraction dose-dependantly without cell cytotoxicitiy (below $100{\mu}g/mL$). We also investigated the skin moisturizing effect using HR-1 hairless mice. The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the 1-tetradecanol treated group was significantly smaller than that in the other groups. To investigate the effect of the preventing hair loss by ${\beta}$-sitosterol, we observed HR-1 hairless mice through periodic growth feature. The results suggest that hair loss of mice by ${\beta}$-sitosterol was delayed and it's hair density showed the highest. These data provide evidence that Dendropanax morbifera Lev. may be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin whitening, moisturizing and alopecia from the point of cosmetic industry view.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.47 no.4
• /
• pp.305-316
• /
• 2021

This study relates to the development of a new gel sheet mask that finally does not require support based on the reactivity and acid/base reaction experiments of Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG), ethanol, and polyols. When TG and a specific alcohol was mixed at a certain mixing ratio, a transparent gel is formed by reaction with each component, and thus a gel sheet mask without support might be obtained using the mixture. In order to maximize skin tone improvement, a carbonation system of acid and base reactions was introduced, and skin brightness and moisturizing power were evaluated using a spectrophotometer and a moisture measuring device. Through this study, it is expected that the gelation reaction by hydrogen bonding of TG, ethanol, and polyols can be developed into various types, and the gel sheet mask formulation introduced in this study is expected to help develop new products in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.47 no.3
• /
• pp.219-226
• /
• 2021

Gastrodia elata has a very low pollination rate in natural state, and even in artificial cultivation, there are very few individuals that bloom due to the degeneration, so little studies have been conducted. This study confirmed that the potential as a cosmetic ingredient by evaluating the antioxidant activity through the evaluation of DPPH radical scavenging activity, anti-inflammatory activity through the inhibitory effect on nitric oxide production, and the moisturizing activity through the effect on promoting hyaluronic acid production by artificially flowering G. elata flower. It was also confirmed that the appearance rate and flowering rate of G. elata harvested in spring were high, and the content of gastrodin was 0.36%. The IC50 value of G. elata flower extract was 0.045% and it was confirmed that G. elata flower extract had higher radical scavenging activity than G. elata root extract. The NO production inhibitory activity against the flower extract showed a significant inhibitory effect from 1% to 83.2%. Hyaluronic acid production promotion efficacy was not confirmed in the G. elata root extract, but the production rate increased with concentration dependence in the flower extract, and it was the highest at 46.9% when 0.02% treatment was performed. Based on the above research results, it is judged that G. elata flower extract has high potential for use as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin moisturizing cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.31 no.1 s.49
• /
• pp.97-102
• /
• 2005

One of the key molecules involved in skin moisture is hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid, HA) with its associated water of hydration. The predominant component of the ECM (extracellular matrix) of skin is HA. It Is the primordial and the simplest of the GAGs (glycosaminoglycans), a water-sorbed macromolecule In extracellular matrix, Included between the vital cells of epidermis. In the skin, HA was previously thought to derive extlusively from dermis. But, recent studies revealed that HA could be synthesized in epidermis. Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds that is found mainly in foods of plant origin. Kaempferol was known to increase glutathione synthesis in human keratinocyte. And quercetin blocked PPAR-meidated keratinocyte differentiation as lipoxygenase inhibitors. In this study, we sought to evaluate the effect of flavonid, kaempferol and quercetin on production HA in keratinocyte. We examined the changes of three human hyaluronan synthase genes (HASI, HAS2, HAS3) expression by semi-quantitative RT-PCR when kaempferol or quercetin was added to cultured human keratinocytes. We found that these flavonoids slightly upregulated HAS2, HAS3 mRNA after 24 h. And we investigated the effect on HA production by ELISA. When we evaluated the level of HA in culture medium after 24 h incubation. We found enhanced accumulation of HA in the culture medium. Although the effects of above flavonoids are less than retinoic acid, the data indicate that kaempferol, quercetin can dose-dependently increase the level of HA in epidermis cell line. It suggested that flavonoid, kaempferol, and quercetin increased production of HA in skin and it helped to elevate skin moisture and improve facial wrinkle.