• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.425-431
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles ($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and $180^{\circ}$ knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.91-101
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop semantic differential scales which are necessary to evaluate visual image and effect of flare skirt. As a result of the first survey of 362 female college students, the most effective factors for shape of flare skirt are silhouette, volume of flare, and skirt length. Based on this result, we made flare skirt simulation for visual evaluation with using I-Designer program. 4 kinds of volume of flare($90^{\circ},\;180^{\circ},\;270^{\circ},\;360^{\circ}$) and 3 kinds of skirt length(48cm, 58cm, 68cm) are combined as variables for flare skirt of visual evaluation. For the second survey of 362 female college students, we asked to write suggested adjectives freely. As a result, we could draw out 210 adjectives. 'Feminine' was most frequently used word for flare skirt, and then, 'vivid', 'rhythmic', 'cute', 'soft', 'fat', and 'comfortable' in this order. With considering frequently used words in the preceding study, we selected 41 adjectives. Antonyms were selected from the resulted frequency of this study and preceding study, and the rest of words were found from dictionary. From these process, we developed semantic differential scales for visual image and effect of flare skirt.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.385-394
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze visual images between the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation with the various fabrics of flare skirts and to analyze the correlation between mechanical properties and visual images. The picture images (printed on paper) of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation of experimental flare skirts were shown to the evaluation group of women in their 20s majoring in clothing and textiles, and were evaluated by questionnaires with 32 adjectives. SPSS Version 12.0 statistics program was utilized to analyze data. Factor analysis, One Way ANOVA, T-test and Duncan test were used to investigate visual effect of the Real garment and the 3D garment simulation. As the result of conducting factor analysis on the visual appearance, the images were driven with five factors: 'drapeability', 'attractive', 'body compensation', 'bulkiness', 'activeness'. Visual images were significantly related with mechanical properties of various fabrics, and the visual images between 3D garment simulations and real garment differed with various fabrics and their mechanical properties. Visual images of silk and polyester group, cotton, linen and wool group were significantly related with weight and thickness of kinds of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.499-511
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• 2009

As the demand of the consumer for high-sense clothing, relation with materials is becoming important even in clothing construction. Especially, the cutting angle of materials is becoming an crucial element in the formation of silhouette, and drape of Hem line, of skirts. Accordingly, in this study, Hem line shapes between real clothing and 3D virtual clothing of "i-Designer" were analyzed by manufacturing semi-flare skirts of polyester 100% according to a cutting angle, and the results are as follows. As a result of comparison of silhouette between the real clothing and the virtual clothing, the real and the virtual have a similar feeling regardless of a cutting angle. In case of drape shapes, both the front and the lateral side were represented in almost similar shapes. The back side, however, the real and the virtual showed a great difference in case of grain direction. And in the whole silhouette, the real and the virtual were represented similarly. It could be known that with regard to Hem-line drape shapes between the real clothing and the virtual according to a cutting angle, the real clothing is represented in a location farther from the body than the virtual clothing and, the location or number of node was similarly showed in the real and the virtual.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.895-906
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• 2000

The study planned to testify the accuracy of the 3D scanner through analyzing the human body measurement method and the evaluation of flare skirt with 3D scanner. The results obtained from this study were as follows; First, the results of measurement for the dress form and human body by 3D scanner were more accurate than one or two dimensional measurement method. Second, from the results of the scan for the flare skirts as worn the human body, we could obtain very accurate horizontal section map. Third, in the clothing ergonomics viewpoint, the accuracy of the 3D scanner was very excellent and its utility was higher than that of the moir photography method. Therefore, the 3D scanner is very useful for the human body measurement and the wearing evaluation. In a nutshell, this study illustrates that we have to develop a program of automatic human body measurement system which will enhance the application of the 3D scanner.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.613-625
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• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.660-667
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. The results of this study are as follows: First, the Flared Skirt pattern was modified according to each type. The front waist line rising measurement proposed for type 1 and type 2 were 0.5cm, because of lower front silhouette with waist shape. The back waist line rising measurement proposed for type 2 was 1cm and type 3 was 0.5cm, because of lower back shape with hip. Second, the wave-height of nodes were regular at front and back in type 1. Also, the wave-height of nodes were evenly distributed side and center. The variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were lower than existing pattern in type 2 and type 3. It means the variation ratio of wave-height of back nodes were regular in modification pattern. Altogether, modification patterns were more regular and lower than existing pattern in the number of nodes, the distribution ratio of nodes, the wave-height of node, the variation ratio of wave height of nodes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was (1) to classify the lower body of young women, (2) to investigate the three-dimensional characteristics of each lower body type. The subjects for direct anthrophometric measurements were 330 female college students aged from 18 to 25. Thirty variables(16 directly obtained from the anthropometric data and 14 indices) were used for lower body classification. The data were statintically analyzed by the principal factor analysis and the cluster analysis. Factors extracted were used as variables for the cluster analysis. To detect three-dimensional characteristics of each lower body type, horizontally sectioned overlap maps were obtained by the moire photography. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The lower body of Korean young women into five groups according to their lower body shapes. 1) Group 1(18.9% of the total) is characterized by a shorter and thinner lower body, no dropped hip with a close size between hip and waist. 2) Group 2(21.3% of the total) is characterized by longer lower body and average dropped hip with the most differences between hip and waist size. 3) Group 3(18.6% of the total) is characterized by their average hip and waist sizes but with the most dropped hip. 4) Group 4(22.9% of the total) is characterized by their comparatively fat lower body, almost average dropped hip and more differences between hip and waist size. 5) Group 5(19.2% of total) is characterized by the fattest and relatively longer lower body, least dropped hip with less differences between hip and waist sizes.