• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.305-312
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• 1995

In general, the radiation stresses based on the linear wave theory are overestimated which result in the discrepancy between the computed results and laboratory data of mean water level in the surf zone. Oh (1995) estimated the mean water level by using Svendsen's radiation stress model (1984) and compared with the experimental data. In this study. the computed results showed good agreements with the experimental data in the case of small wave steepness. while the results were overestimated in the case of large wave steepness. In this paper. the dimensionless radiation stress proposed by Svendsen (1984) is expressed in terms of relative water depth at breaking point and deep water wave steepness. The computed results are compared with the results calculated by d linear wave theory, Stive's model (1984). Sawaragi et al's model (1984) based on the spectrum of breaking wave components. and published laboratory data. The computed results of the modified Svendsen's model arc favourably compared with the laboratory data.

• Water for future
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.73-83
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• 1994

The unproper development of the nearshore zone can enhance the diffusion of pollutant in the nearshore zone resulting in unbalanced sediment budget of beach which causes alteration of beach topography. Therefore, it is required to predict the effects of the envirnmental change quantitatively. In this paper, the depth-averaged and time-averaged energy balance equation is selected to acount for the wave transformation such as refraction, shoaling effect, the surf zone energy disipation, wave breaking index and bore, due to wave breaking in the shore region.(Numerical solutions are obtained by a finite difference method, ADI and Upwind. For the calculation of the wave-induced current, the unsteady nonlinear depth-averaged and time-averaged governing equation is derived based on the continuity and momentum equation for imcompressible fluid.) Numerical solutions are obtained by finite difference method considering influences of factors such as lateral mixing coefficient, bed shear stress, wave direction angle, wave steepness, wave period and bottom slope. The model is applied to the computation of wave transformation, wave-induced current and variation of mean water leel on a uniformly sloping beach.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.389-397
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• 1988

For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Communications and Information Sciences
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• v.38A no.2
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• pp.201-208
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• 2013

In this paper, the PTS scheme generate alternative orthogonal frequency frequency division multiplexing (OFDM) signal sequences by multiplying all the time domain samples with phase rotating vectors to find an OFDM signal having the minimum peak-to-average power ratio (PAPR). However, it needs an exhaustive search which causes large computational complexity. In order to solve this problem, we propose two efficient methods based on the crest factor. The first proposed scheme is to select time domain sample with large magnitude to calculate PAPR, and the next scheme is to calculate the absolute value of real and imaginary part of the sample at each subblock. The simulation results show that the proposed schemes achieve better PAPR reduction performance than existing PTS schemes.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.209-229
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• 2001

Simultaneous field measurements of short-period and long-period waves were made at five stations inside or outside Okkye Harbor, which is located in the east coast of Korea. Based on the measured data, spacial and temporal variations of the long-period wave energy were examined. Three smoothing methods were examined for the spectral estimates: fixed interval averaging method, incremental interval averaging method, and moving averaging method. It was shown that a proper smoothing method should be chosen depending on the period of first resonant mode and the length of data being used. By comparing the results obtained using the long-term data with those obtained using two-day data, we showed that it is necessary to analyze the data of calm seas and storm seas separately. The Helmholtz resonant period in Okkye Harbor was found to be about 9.6 minutes with its relative amplification ratio of 9 to 10, and local amplifications were apparent at the periods of 1.2 to 1.3 minutes and 0.7 minute. During calm seas, both at the harbor entrance and inside the harbor the energy of the waves of 9 minutes or longer period was larger than the infra-gravity wave energy by more than 100 times. However, during storm seas the energy level was very high all over the period band, and local amplification was larger than that during calm seas by more than 100 times, especially inside the harbor, Finally it was shown that the energies of the Helmholtz resonant mode and the infra-gravity waves of 1 to 2 minutes are proportional to the storm wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.324-339
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• 2021

In this study, we determined the correlation between the wave characteristics and the change in the area of Haeundae Beach, conducted regression analysis between the wave characteristics and the change in beach area, and derived a formula for calculating the change in beach area. The change in beach area was calculated by applying the derived formula to wave observation data corresponding to a period of approximately 10 months, and the formula was subsequently validated by comparing the obtained results with the observed area. It is found that the error associated with the formula for calculating the change in beach area ranges from 1.5 m to 2.7 m based on the average beach width, and the correlation coefficient corresponding to the observed area ranges from 0.91 to 0.94. Furthermore, it is observed that the change in beach area is af ected by the wave direction in the western zone, wave height in the central zone, and wave height and wave period in the eastern zone. These results can contribute to understanding the impact of a coastal improvement project on the beach area fluctuation characteristics of Haeundae Beach and the ef ectiveness of such a coastal improvement project. By applying the aforementioned derived formula to highly accurate wave prediction data, the change in beach area can be calculated and incorporated for predicting significant long-term changes in beach areas. Furthermore, such a prediction can be considered as the basis for making decisions while establishing preemptive countermeasure policies to prevent coastal erosion.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.305-318
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• 2012

Although the existing performance-based design method for the vertical breakwater evaluates an average sliding distance during an arbitrary time, it does not calculate the probability of the first occurrence of an event exceeding an allowable sliding distance(i.e. the first-passage probability). Designers need information about the probability that the structure is damaged for the first time for not only design but also maintenance and operation of the structure. Therefore, in this study, a time-dependent reliability design method based on a stochastic process is developed to evaluate the first-passage probability of caisson sliding. Caisson sliding can be formulated by the Poisson spike process because both occurrence time and intensity of severe waves causing caisson sliding are random processes. The occurrence rate of severe waves is expressed as a function of the distribution function of sliding distance and mean occurrence rate of severe waves. These values simulated by a performance-based design method are expressed as multivariate regression functions of design variables. As a result, because the distribution function of sliding distance and the mean occurrence rate of severe waves are expressed as functions of significant wave height, caisson width, and water depth, the first-passage probability of caisson sliding can be easily evaluated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.258-264
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• 2011

A MCS technique is represented to stochastically analyze the uncertainties of wave forces exerted on the upright sections of composite breakwaters. A stochastical models for horizontal and uplift wave forces can be straightforwardly formulated as a function of the probabilistic characteristics of maximum wave height. Under the assumption of wave forces followed by extreme distribution, the behaviors of relative wave forces to Goda's wave forces are studied by the MCS technique. Double-truncated normal distribution is applied to take the effects of uncertainties of scale and shape parameters of extreme distribution into account properly. Averages and variances of relative wave forces are quantitatively calculated with respect to the exceedance probabilities of maximum design wave height. It is found that the averages of relative wave forces may be decreased consistently with the increases of the exceedance probabilities. In particular, the averages on uplift wave force are evaluated slightly larger than those on horizontal wave force, but the variations of coefficient of the former are adversely smaller than those of the latter. It means that the uncertainties of uplift wave forces are smaller than those of horizontal wave forces in the same condition of the exceedance probabilities. Therefore, the present results could be useful to the reliability based-design method that require the statistical properties about the uncertainties of wave forces.