• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.11a
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• pp.153-154
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 JMA-MSM (Meso-Scale Model) 바람장을 SWAN 모델에 입력자료로 적용하여 파랑전파를 모의하였다. 영역은 심해역·중간역·연안역으로 설정하였다. 산출된 모델링의 결과는 관측자료와 비교·검증하여 모델 구축에 대한 신뢰성을 확보하였다. 그리고 연안역에서 SWAN모델의 파랑스펙트럼정보를 입력조건으로 하는 SWASH모델의 영역을 구축하여 두 모델간 파랑전파양상을 비교하였다. SWAN(phase-averaged) 모델과 SWASH(phase-resolving) 모델은 지배방정식의 차이에 따라 파랑의 위상처리 방식 등의 차이가 있다. 이로 인한 연안역에서의 파랑전파양상의 차이를 비교하였다.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.12 no.4_1
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• pp.129-136
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• 1992

A precedure for recovering surface displacement from a time series of pressure measured by a pressure gage in a shallow water (that is, FFTM, LCM. IWM) is investigated with respect to a proper cut-off-frequency of a frequency response function for the accurate recovery of wave height and period. The authors examined the applicability of above mentioned three transformation procedures through field observations and laboratory experiments and the following results are obtained. i) The cut-off-frequency of the frequency response function used in FFTM is deeply depend on both the frequency response of the pressure sensor and the water depth at the sensor. In this study, a relatively accurate surface displacement can be recovered when the frequency response function is cut off at the frequency corresponding to kh=3.0 where k is a wave number at the depth of h. The frequency response function in the region higher than the cut-off-frequency is set constant to be the value at the cut-off-frequency. ii) The transformed surface displacements by LCM are affected by the small waves of short periods included in the measured pressure. It is found that pressure variation whose local frequency is higher than kh=1.5 has to be neglected to recover surface displacement sufficiently. iii) In IWM, the linear pressure response function is usually utilized by multiplying a coefficient N which is a function of the frequency (or kh) and takes a value around unity. However, in this study, a constant value of N(=1.0) gives a relatively accurate recovery of surface displacements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.239-246
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• 2017

In case of observing only wave height and period in the field, various wave characteristics are mainly calculated by wave by wave analysis method. In this paper, an wave by wave analysis program using MATLAB language is developed. It is possible to perform a function such as 1) correction for mean water level, 2) calculation for zero crossing time, 3) calculation for individual wave height, 4) time interval by using zero upcrossing and downcrossing method. The applicability of the developed program to the data of 0.2 second interval observed by using the WaveGuide Radar installed on HeMOSU-1 was examined. Tidal level variation removal and zero crossing time estimation were determined by linear or quadratic interpolation. It was judged that the Goda method was appropriate for calculating individual wave height, and the method proposed in this study seems to be improved through subsequent research. Due to the fineness of the sample, it can be seen that characteristics of representative waves are different from the results calculated by zero upcrossing and downcrossing method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.139-146
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• 2017

In order to understand the efficacy of submerged breakwater constructed for the beach protection, laboratory experiments were carried out by observing the characteristics of flow around a single shore-parallel submerged breakwater. The velocity field near the shoreline was measured by utilizing the LSPIV (Large-Scale Particle Image Velocimetry) technique, and mean surface and wave height distributions were observed around the submerged breakwater, according to various combinations of incident waves and submerged breakwaters. In this experiment, it was found that the mean flow pattern behind the submerged breakwater was determined by the balance among the gradients of mean water surface and excess wave-momentum flux (i.e., radiation stress tensors) which interact with the wave-induced current developed by the gradients on the rear and the side of the submerged breakwater. The divergent and convergent flow patterns behind the submerged breakwater (i.e., accretion and erosion response) of the numerical study of Ranasinghe et al.(2010) were observed in the measured velocity distributions, and their empirical formula mostly agreed with the experimental results. However, for some cases in this experiment, it was difficult to say that the flow pattern was one of them and was agreed with the empirical formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.39-50
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• 2018

In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.109-119
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• 2012

Long-term wave observation was carried out near Busan New Port and the major wave characteristics were analyzed. At Busan New Port, waves from south direction were predominant throughout the year, while waves from the west, developed at the north sea of Geoje island, appeared almost the same frequency in winter season, showing apparent seasonal variation. During the observation period, the significant wave height was mostly less than 1 m, but it reached its maximum of 8.0 m when typhoon Maemi passed on September 2003. Also, the seasonal variation was hardly observed except July. In contrast, seasonal variation was apparent for the significant wave period, whose peak ranges 4~5 s in summer whereas about 3 s in winter. The largest significant wave period was 15.56 s, observed on June 2003. Meanwhile, the annual variation was negligible for mean wave direction as well as significant wave height and period. Further analysis of the wave data acquired for 5 years at 4.5 km south, in the south sea of Daejuk island, confirmed high correlation between the two observation points in summer and vice versa in winter.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2023

Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2020.06a
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• pp.304-304
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• 2020

항만구조물의 방파제 또는 방파호안의 마루높이는 배후지역의 활용도에 따라 내습파의 월파로 인한 전달파 또는 월파량에 의해 결정되기 때문에 월파량산정은 항만구조물을 설계함에 있어서 주요한 설계인자이다. 그동안 국내에서는 항만구조물 설계시 주로 외국의 기준이나 기법을 활용하고 있는 실정이다. 국내 항만설계기준에서는 Goda도표를 이용하여 직립제 및 방파호안에 대한 월파량 산정방법을 제시하고 있으나, 도표축이 log로 되어 있어 내삽 또는 외삽시 사용자에 따라 월파량 차이가 발생할 수 있다. 국내의 해역특성 및 최근 설계동향을 반영한 월파량 산정식의 개발이 필요하고, 동일조건에 대한 동일한 월파량 산정결과가 도출될 수 있어야 한다. 최근의 대표 연구성과인 EurOtop(2007)과 같이 지수함수의 형태로 월파량 산정식을 제시하고자 한다. 경사식구조물의 평균월파량 산정식 도출을 위해 적용한 구조물 위치에서의 수심(d_t)은 0.40m, 0.55m, 0.70m 이다. 적용수심을 서로 다르게 한 것은 기존의 대부분의 연구에서 적용하지 않았던 구조물 위치에서의 쇄파조건을 고려하기 위한 것이다. 실험파는 Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu 주파수 스펙트럼을 사용한 불규칙파를 적용하였다. 본 연구에서는 주 피복재로 TTP를 대상으로 하였고, 주기 및 파고를 다양한 조건에서 수리실험을 수행하였다. 본 연구의 실험결과는 월파량 계측을 통해 분석된 평균 월파량을 적절한 산정식으로 나타내기 위해 EurOtop(2007)의 기존 월파량 산정식 형태에 대입하여 비교하여 분석하였다. 따라서, 본 논문은 월파량 산정식 제시를 통해 보다 합리적인 항만구조물의 마루높이 산정이 가능하게 하고, 또한 월파량 산정과 관련된 실험자료 구축을 통해 신뢰성해석 자료 및 수치모형의 검증 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.