• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.145-152
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• 2016

Epidermis is continuously regenerated by keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs) residing in basement membrane, which is critical to the survival of an organism. KSCs are believed to persist during the whole lifetime and generate an enormous number of keratinocytes, required for the maintenance of epidermis, through transit amplifying cells dividing definite times until they become differentiated. In this report, we have developed a phenolic compound, paeonol, purified from Moutan Cortex, as a KSC proliferation activator, by screening about 350 herbal compounds. The cell proliferation activation by paeonol is specific for KSC not for keratinocyte, and no significant difference in the expression of p63 protein, a KSC marker, in KSCs treated with paeonol was observed in FACS analysis with anti-p63 antibody. In the colony forming assay, paeonol-treated KSC showed improved colony forming activity more than 1.3 fold. In addition, the result of PCR array shows that the activity of paeonol is through several signal pathways involving stem cell functions. These results suggest that paeonol could enhance KSC proliferation activity without reduction in stemness and could be applied to cosmetics as a KSC activating ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.85-93
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• 2024

In this study, we prepared fractions from Cynanchum paniculatum (C. paniculatum) with ethyl acetate and identified the structure and content of paeonol, an indicator substance. Fractions were obtained by sequential solvent fractions using n-hexane, methylene chloride, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, and distilled water, and showed the highest paeonol content in ethyl acetate (EtOAc). The structure of the ethyl acetate fraction (EA) was confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and the content was determined by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis. The antioxidant activity of EA was tested through its ability to scavenge 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS), and its ability to inhibit nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) was tested for its ability to inhibit NO production in a concentration-dependent manner. Furthermore, MMP-1 production induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) was decreased in a concentration-dependent manner by the EA, and the ability to produce procollagen type-I was increased in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, as a result of conducting clinical trials using cosmetic formulations containing EA, the effect of improving wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed. Thus, it is expected that Cynanchum paniculatum can be used as a natural functional cosmetic material with antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.235-246
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• 2018

Paeony has pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-bacterial, central inhibitory, gastric secretion inhibition, and antispasmodic activities. In addition, its antioxidant activity and whitening effect being reported, thus it is being explored as raw materials for cosmetics. We compared the changes in the contents of paeoniflorin and paeonol in Peony extracts, depending on the changes of extracting solvents, temperature and time. The HPLC method was set up for simultaneous analysis, the system suitabilities were confirmed by using the calibration curves and the QC samples for each assay batch. Paeonol was detected only in roots, and paeoniflorin was higher in leaf and flower than root. Higher concentrations of both ingredients were extracted when the root was used after grinding to a suitable size, and when 30% 1,3-butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent. Also the concentrations tended to increase at higher temperature and longer time, but the increase was gradual at over $75^{\circ}C$ and 4 hours. The ratio of root, leaf and flower was determined to be 2+2+1g/0.5kg of batch, reaching the contents criteria of paeoniflorin and paeonol. Finally, we selected as the best extraction condition when the raw materials are mixed with 2+2+1g/0.5kg and extracted with 30% 1,3-butylene glycol as an extraction solvent at $75^{\circ}C$ for 4 hours, considering both the concentrations of two components and the cost of raw materials and manufacturing process, The extraction units were scaled up to 10 kg under this condition.