• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1754-1762
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1045-1052
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• 2010

Effects of the ease of pattern on the thermal conditions of clothing were investigated through the measurement of clothing surface temperatures using infrared thermography. Four vests with different pattern ease were worn by five male subjects. Surface temperature distribution on the clothing were then examined using a thermogram to view thermo-regulating characteristics affected by the ease of pattern. Representative surface temperatures were calculated based on the percentage of the surface area within a certain temperature range and the midpoint value of the corresponding area. Representative surface temperatures matches well to the thermal insulation value measured by thermal manikin. Results indicated that representative surface temperature could be a useful quantitative value if some simple calculations were to be used alongside accurate image processing.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Intelligent Systems
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.594-600
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• 2006

The optimization has been performed to search an economical running pattern in the view point of trip time and energy consumption. Fuzzy control model has been applied to build the meta-model. To identify the structure and its parameters of a fuzzy model, fuzzy c-means clustering method and differential evolutionary scheme ate utilized, respectively. As a result, two meta-models for trip time and energy consumption are constructed. The optimization to search an economical running pattern is achieved by differential evolutionary scheme. The result shows that the proposed methodology is very efficient and conveniently applicable to the operation of railway system.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.226-242
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• 2022

For clothing items that combine the top with the bottom, such as a jumper suit, it is necessary to design original forms to develop clothes in various styles that can satisfy aesthetic and functional needs. Therefore, to determine the original forms of women's jumper suits, this study aimed to analyze the patterns of women's jumper suits being sold in the market comparatively and evaluate their fitness. For the study method, this researcher obtained five types of women's jumper suits from local brands and compared the patterns' measured sizes, then conducted exterior evaluation on the surplus according to five different movements and analyzed the values of distortion of clothing pressure comparatively. According to the results, in the basic posture, brands A and C received favorable results, while in the other movements, brand B, which had the biggest surplus on the bottom, was evaluated favorably. In conclusion, in the patterns of women's jumper suits, a bigger surplus is added to either the crotch length or crotch girth rather than the top length, and the top and the bottom tend to have a different surplus according to the design. In addition, based on the values of body surface lengths according to the range of movements, this study suggests that an additional surplus be added to the length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.835-845
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the proper ease for slim-fit jackets according to the number of buttons from a one-button jacket to four-button jackets for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and movement functionality evaluation. The results are as follows: When conducting the appearance evaluations, meaningful differences were found. The one-button jacket showed high scores for the 7.5 cm ease. The two-button jacket and the three-button jacket showed high scores for the 10.5 cm ease. The four-button jacket showed a high score for the 13.5 cm ease. Next, the results of the movement functionality evaluation showed the same trend; as the ease was increased from 7.5 cm to 13.5 cm, the scores increased. This is because if the garments offer more ease, this gives room for actions. Additionally, it showed that if there were fewer jacket buttons, then the results showed a high score. The researchers believe that if the number of jacket buttons is lower, then the area of the V-zone increases, so that there is more room for movement. The study suggests a proper chest ease of 7.5 cm for the one-button jacket, 10.5 cm for the two-button jacket and three-button jacket, and 13.5 cm for the four-button jacket, respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.265-275
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.11
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• pp.167-178
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• 2020

This study attempted to find out the difference in the patterns of jeogori between commercially available Shinhanbok brands by comparing and analyzing the patterns of the changing Shinhanbok jeogori in consideration of material characteristics, fit, and fastening. After purchasing and disassembling 6 products, analysis was conducted with the disassembly pattern. As a result of analyzing the shape of the jeogori, the 1st, 3rd and 6th brands showed no darts. In the case of the 5th brand, the three-dimensional effect of the human body was expressed with a princess line. As a result of the appearance evaluation, the 5 brands were evaluated as the highest in most items except for the space of the front width and the group wrinkles of back sleeve armhole, and the appearance was analyzed to be the best. As a result of evaluating the clothing pressure, it was analyzed that the chest circumference of the first brand was smaller than that of the other brands, and the shoulder width and shoulder length were also shorter, and pulling occurred even after wearing. As the demand for new hanbok increases, it is believed that it is necessary to establish a size system for ready-made clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.392-403
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.