• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.21-32
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• 2003

In this study, the reliability design method developed by Hanzawa et al. in 1996 for calculation of the expected damage to armor blocks of a horizontally composite breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves. the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Hanzawa et al. It was found that the variability in wave direction had great influence on the computed expected damage to armor blocks. The previous design, which disregarded wave directionality, could either overestimate or underestimate the expected damage by a factor of two depending on water depth and seabed slope, if the assumption of the present study that the stability formula for breakwater armor blocks proposed for normal incidence can be used for obliquely incident waves is valid.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2023

Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-38
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• 2004

In this study, the reliability design method developed by Shimosako and Takahashi in 1999 for calculation of the expected sliding distance of the caisson of a vertical breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves, the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Shimosako and Takahashi. The effects of directional spreading and the variation of deep-water principal wave directions were minor compared with those of the obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, which tends to reduce the expected sliding distance as it increases. Especially when we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the expected sliding distance to about one third of that not considering the directional variability. Reducing the significant wave height calculated at the design site by 6％ to correct the effect of wave refraction neglected in using Goda's model was found to be proper when the deep-water design principal wave direction is about 20 degrees. When it is smaller than 20 degrees, a value smaller than 6％ should be used, or vice versa. When we designed the caisson with the expected sliding distance to be 30㎝, in the area of water depth of 25 m or smaller, we could reduce the caisson width by about 30％ at the maximum compared with the deterministic design, even if we did not consider the variability in wave directions. When we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the necessary caisson width by about 10% at the maximum compared with that not considering the directional variability, and is needed a caisson width smaller than that of the deterministic design in the whole range of water depth considered (10∼30 m).

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.82-91
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• 2002

방파제에 대한 신뢰성 설계 방법은 유럽과 일본을 중심으로1980년대 중반 이후로 발전되어 왔다. 유럽에서는 van der Meer(1988a)가 방파제 피복재의 설계에 확률론적인 방법을 도입하였고, Burcharth(1991)는 사석방파제에 대하여 부분안전계수(partial safety factor)를 이용한 신뢰성 설계 방법을 제시하였다 최근 Burcharth and Sørensen(1999)은 PIANC (Permanent International Association of Navigation Congress) Working Groups의 결과를 요약하여 사석방파제와 직립방파제에 대한 부분안전계수들을 확립하였다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2006

A Level 3 reliability analysis has been performed for wave run-up and overtopping on a sloping seawall. A Monte-Carlo simulation was performed considering the uncertainties of various variables affecting the wave overtopping event. The wave overtopping probability was evaluated from the individual wave run-up by using the wave-by-wave method, while the mean overtopping rate was calculated directly from the significant wave height. Using the calculated overtopping probability and mean overtopping rate, the maximum overtopping volume was also calculated on the assumption of two-parameter Weibull distribution of individual wave overtopping volume. In addition, by changing wave directions, depths, and structure slopes, their effects on wave overtopping were analyzed. It was found that, when the variability of wave directions is considered or the water depth decreases toward shore, wave height become smaller due to wave refraction, which yields smaller mean overtopping rate, overtopping probability and maximum overtopping volume. For the same mean overtopping rate, the expected overtopping probability increases and the expected maximum overtopping volume decreases as approaching toward shore inside surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.109-119
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• 2012

Long-term wave observation was carried out near Busan New Port and the major wave characteristics were analyzed. At Busan New Port, waves from south direction were predominant throughout the year, while waves from the west, developed at the north sea of Geoje island, appeared almost the same frequency in winter season, showing apparent seasonal variation. During the observation period, the significant wave height was mostly less than 1 m, but it reached its maximum of 8.0 m when typhoon Maemi passed on September 2003. Also, the seasonal variation was hardly observed except July. In contrast, seasonal variation was apparent for the significant wave period, whose peak ranges 4~5 s in summer whereas about 3 s in winter. The largest significant wave period was 15.56 s, observed on June 2003. Meanwhile, the annual variation was negligible for mean wave direction as well as significant wave height and period. Further analysis of the wave data acquired for 5 years at 4.5 km south, in the south sea of Daejuk island, confirmed high correlation between the two observation points in summer and vice versa in winter.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.324-339
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• 2021

In this study, we determined the correlation between the wave characteristics and the change in the area of Haeundae Beach, conducted regression analysis between the wave characteristics and the change in beach area, and derived a formula for calculating the change in beach area. The change in beach area was calculated by applying the derived formula to wave observation data corresponding to a period of approximately 10 months, and the formula was subsequently validated by comparing the obtained results with the observed area. It is found that the error associated with the formula for calculating the change in beach area ranges from 1.5 m to 2.7 m based on the average beach width, and the correlation coefficient corresponding to the observed area ranges from 0.91 to 0.94. Furthermore, it is observed that the change in beach area is af ected by the wave direction in the western zone, wave height in the central zone, and wave height and wave period in the eastern zone. These results can contribute to understanding the impact of a coastal improvement project on the beach area fluctuation characteristics of Haeundae Beach and the ef ectiveness of such a coastal improvement project. By applying the aforementioned derived formula to highly accurate wave prediction data, the change in beach area can be calculated and incorporated for predicting significant long-term changes in beach areas. Furthermore, such a prediction can be considered as the basis for making decisions while establishing preemptive countermeasure policies to prevent coastal erosion.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.