• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.518-523
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• 1997

To isolate biologically active compounds which exhibit tyrosinase inhibition activity and ultimately express skin whitening effect, 14 oriental herbal drugs were screened in ter ms of tyrosinase inhibition. For this purpose, in vitro enzyme assay system for tyrosinase, so called Pomerantz method with some modifications has been established. Crude methanolic extracts from 14 herbal drugs were made and examined for their inhibitory activity against tyrosinase. Those extracts from Cnidii Rhizoma, Arecae Semen, Caryophylli Flos, and Ephedrae Herba showed strong inhibitory activities on mushroom tyrosinase. Therefore, crude methanolic extracts from those 4 herbal drugs were further fractionated using ether, butanol and water. respectively. The ether and n-butanol extracts from Arecae Semen and the n-butanol and water extracts from Caryophylli Flos, respectively, showed relatively strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity compared to arbutin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2004

Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85$^{\circ}C$ for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.462-470
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to investigate the role of the Nypa fruticans extracts as a cosmetic additive. The tyrosinase inhibitory effects showed 52.0% at 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. A cell viability test, measured on melanoma cell (B16F10) hot water extract of nypa fruticans showed 84.8% at 100 ㎍/mL concentration. The protein expression inhibitory effects of nypa fruticans extracts were measured by western blot at 25, 50, 100 ㎍/mL concentration and the β-actin. Results showed that the expression inhibition rates of the MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase protein were decreased by 70.7%, 83.3%, 45.7%, 45.9% at 100 ㎍/mL concentration, respectively. It was concluded that nypa fruticans extracts had the whitening effects and thus could be applied for cosmetics as a natural ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.203-208
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• 2009

Doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste) is a unique fermented food in Korea. It has been traditionally manufactured from soybeans, by Jang Yang process. We focused on the newly formed compound in highly aged Doenjang and its biological activity. One new o-dihydroxyisoflavone, 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone and two known o-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives were isolated from 5-year-old Doenjang and evaluated as potent antioxidant and whitening effect by comparing with other known isoflavone. 7,8,4'-Trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 1), 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 2) and 6,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 3) inhibited DPPH (diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) formation by 50 % at a concentration of $21.5{\pm}0.2$, $28.7{\pm}0.4$ and $32.6{\pm}0.6$ ($IC_{50}$) respectively, whereas daidzein showed weak DPPH radical scavenging activity. In superoxide scavenging effect were measured in one assay. Compound 1 ($IC_{50}=18.10{\pm}0.2{\mu}M$) and 2 ($IC_{50}=10.54{\pm}0.4{\mu}M$) show significant inhibitory activity and greater effect than L-ascorbic acid. But compound 3 and daidzein showed lower inhibition activity. Also, o-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives evaluated as potent inhibitors on tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in melan-a cells. Compound 1 ($IC_{50}=11.21{\pm}0.2{\mu}M$), compound 2 ($IC_{50}=5.23{\pm}0.6{\mu}M$) exhibited significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, those compounds are significantly suppressed the cellular melanin formation by 50 % at a concentration of $12.23{\pm}0.7{\mu}M$ (1) and $7.83{\pm}0.7{\mu}M$ (2). This result suggests that 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone from highly aged Doenjang could be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of Haehwa Medicine
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.125-133
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• 2012

본 논문은 피부미백에 관한 실험적 연구로서, 봉선화(Impatiens balsamina Linne)의 성분 중에서 하이드록시-나프타-퀴논(hydroxynaphthoquinone)이 멜라닌 생성억제 효능, 색소침착 저해 효과 등의 미백 활성이 있는 것으로 밝혀졌다. 피부흑화(melanogenesis)는 멜라닌 색소생성세포(melanocyte)에서 자외선 등의 자극에 대한 방어기작으로 멜라닌 생성 활동이 증가되고 이로 말미암아 만들어진 다량의 멜라닌이 각질형성세포(keratinocyte)로 전이되어 피부 표피층에 축척된 결과이다. 비록 멜라닌이 피부에 보호작용을 하나 피부의 과색소 침착은 기미, 주근깨, 피부염증 후의 피부흑화, 노인성 색소반점 등을 일으키며 이로 인해 피부미용 상의 불편뿐만 아니라 정신적으로 부정적인 영향을 미쳐 사회활동에 불편을 초래하기도 한다. 멜라닌 생성 과정은 아미노산의 일종인 티로신(tyrosine)에 티로시나제(tyrosinase)라는 효소가 작용하여 도파(DOPA), 도파퀴논(dopaquinone)으로 바뀐 후 비효소적인 산화 반응을 거쳐 만들어 지며, 이것이 피부 내에 이상 침착하여 기미, 검버섯 등이 생기는 것이라고 알려져 있다. 이와 같은 색소침착, 기미, 반점 등의 완화, 예방 및 치료에는 멜라닌 생성을 억제하는 물질, 예를 들면 하이드로퀴논(hydroquinone), 알부틴, 비타민 C 및 그 유도체 등이 개발되어 사용되고 있으나 이 중, 하이드로퀴논은 일단 효과가 인정되고 있지만 감작성이 있기 때문에 일반적으로 사용이 제한되고 있다. 아스콜빈산은 쉽게 산화되어, 이를 배합한 제품에는 변색, 변취가 되는 문제를 야기하고, 식물추출물 유래의 물질들은 식물의 산지에 따라 효능의 차이가 심하여 제품의 균질성이 유지되기 어렵다. 이러한 이유로 많은 멜라닌 생성을 억제하는 물질을 개발하기 위한 연구들이 계속 진행하고 있다. 2-히드록시-[1,4]나프토퀴논 유도체는 다음과 같은 구조를 나타낸다. 상기 구조에서 R은 포화 혹은 불포화된 직쇄 또는 분지쇄의 알킬로서, 바람직하게는 C1 내지 C10의 포화 혹은 불포화된 직쇄 또는 분지쇄의 알킬이고, 보다 바람직하게는 C1 내지 C5의 포화 혹은 불포화된 직쇄 또는 분지쇄의 알킬이다. 실험에 활용된 화합물은 다음과 같은 반응식으로 얻어졌다. 2-히드록시-[1,4]나프토퀴논과 포타슘카보네이트(K2CO3)를 아세토니트릴에 용해한 후, 저온수조로 냉각하고 알킬할라이드를 적당한 당량비로 천천히 적하하여 히드록시기와 에테르(ether) 반응을 통하여 얻어질 수 있다. 상기 반응식에서 R은 C1~10의 포화 또는 불포화된 알킬기로서 직쇄형 또는 분지쇄형 모두 가능하다. 상기 화합물인 2-히드록시-[1,4]나프토퀴논(2-hydroxynaphthoquinone)은 배양된 쥐의 멜라노마 세포에 대하여 하이드로퀴논과 대등한 멜라닌 생성 억제효과를 보였다. 하이드로퀴논은 저농도에서 강력한 멜라닌 생성 억제효과를 보이지만 상기 화합물들은 보다 낮은 농도에서도 세포독성을 나타내지 않으며 하이드로퀴논보다 높은 멜라닌 생성 억제 효과를 보였다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.35-41
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• 2017

Melanin synthesis inhibition activities were investigated for the extracts prepared from the leaves of Carpinus turczaninowii (C. turczaninowii) by using B16F10 melanoma cells. As a result, the ethanol extract ($100{\mu}g/mL$) showed 72.2% inhibition activities without cell toxicities in MTT assays. For the solvent fractions (n-hexane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, water), the most potent activities were observed at the ethyl acetate fraction. To isolate the active constituents, the ethyl acetate fraction was further purified to afford four compounds; ethyl gallate (1), quercetin rhamnose (2), kaempferol rhamnose (3) and quercetin galloylrhamnose (4). The identification of the isolates was made by spectroscopic data including NMR spectra, and all of the compounds 1-4 were isolated for the first time from the leaves of C. turczaninowii. Anti-melanogenesis activities were studied for the isolates 1-4, and the compound 4 was determined to decrease the melanin synthesis dose-dependently without causing cell toxicities. ELISA measurement indicated that the isolate 4 decreased the contents of cell tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanogenesis. Based on these results, the extracts of C. turczaninowii were found to be applicable as whitening ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.53-60
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated whitening and anti-inflammatory constituents from a watermelon (Citrullus lanatus, C. lanatus) vines (leaves and stems). As anti-melanogenesis and anti-inflammatory activities were screened for the ethanol extract and solvent fractions, n-hexane (n-Hex) and ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fractions showed the most potent activities. Three constituents were isolated from the n-Hex and EtOAc fractions of C. lanatus; ${\alpha}-linolenic$ acid (1), sigmast-7-en-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (2), 1-feruloyl-${\beta}$-D-glucopyrinoside (3). The chemical structures of the isolated compounds were elucidated based on the spectroscopic data including $^1H$ and $^{13}C$ NMR spectra, as well as comparison of the data to the literature values. Whitening and anti-inflammatory effects were studied for the isolated compounds. Upon the anti-melanogenesis tests using ${\alpha}-MSH$ stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the compounds 1 and 3 inhibited the cellular melanogenesis and intracellular tyrosinase activities effectively. For the anti-inflammation tests using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW 264.7 cells, the isolates 1 and 3 were determined to decrease the production of nitric oxide (NO) and pro-inflammatory cytokines ($TNF-{\alpha}$, IL-6). Based on these results, C. lanatus vines extract could be potentially applicable as whitening and anti-inflammatory ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.442-448
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• 2009

Physiological activities in mulberry leaf and fruit were examined. Electron-donating ability (EDA), tyrosinase activity, SOD-like action (SOD), angiotensin I-converting enzyme-(ACE) inhibitory activity,and nitrite-scavenging ability of mulberry leaf and fruitextracted with water, with 50% (v/v) or with 100% ethanol, were measured. The EDA of mulberry leaf and fruit extracted with water or 50% (v/v) ethanol were greater (by 65.72-81.30%) than that with the 100% ethanol extract, whereas the activities of both former extracts were lower than those with 1.0% and 0.1% (both w/v) L-ascorbate solutions. The SOD-like activities of water, 50% (v/v) and 100% ethanol extracts of all samples were 24.13.26.80% lower than those of 1.0% and 0.1% (both w/v) L-ascorbate solutions. Nitrite-scavenging activity at pH 1.2 was observed in all extracts. The results further our understanding of the physiological activities of mulberry leaf and fruit extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.257-263
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• 2009

In order to search for new whitening cosmetic ingredients from Chinese herbal extracts including Chinese herbs and complex prescriptions from TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine), we screened about 47 TCM extracts collected from China. We tested their inhibitory effects on melanogenesis by using in vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay and B16 melanoma cells. We selected Siphonostegia chinensis and Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge. We isolated Danshensu ($\alpha$,3,4-trihydroxybenzenepropanoic acid sodium salt) from Salvianic miltiorrhiza Bunge extract and tested its inhibitory effect on melanin formation in B16-F10 melanoma cells. Danshensu suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 50% at a concentration of $100\;{\mu}g/mL$. Siphonostegia chinensis suppressed melanin synthesis up to about 60% at a concentration of $300\;{\mu}g/mL$. The results showed that these extracts could be used as new natural active ingredients for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.115-124
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• 2017

The objective of this study was to investigate skin whitening effect of Resorcinol dipentyl ether [1,3-di(pentyloxyl)benzene] by in vitro experiments. Resorcinol dipentyl ether was prepared by alkylation of resorcinol with 1-bromopentane. The reaction products were confirmed by NMR, MS and other analytical equipments. In order to evaluate the skin safety of resorcinol dipentyl ether, the cytotoxicity of the cells constituting the skin (keratinocyte, melanocyte, fibroblast) was analyzed and similar cell viability was observed in all cell lines as compared with the control group. Inhibition of extracellular melanin synthesis effect of resorcinol dipentyl ether was approximately 65.75% at $20{\mu}g/mL$ and inhibition of intracellular melanin synthesis effect of resorcinol dipentyl ether was approximately 53.89% at $20{\mu}g/mL$. The real-time PCR and western blot analysis of mRNA expression and protein expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 related to melanogenesis revealed that melanin inhibitory effect of resorcinol dipentyl ether was inhibited from the transcription stage respectively. Finally, this study suggested applicability of Resorcinol dipentyl ether [1,3-di(pentyloxyl)benzene] as a whitening functional cosmetic new material.